Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello, I’ve been through a lot because of the stupid heating blower, but found no answer. Again my problem case: Omega B CD 2.0 16V Built. 98, manual transmission, automatic air conditioning. The heating blower for the interior is ticking around. Now at the cold temperatures the heating is constantly on (usually set 22 degrees left and right, blower level set to 5 or 6, air nozzles up and down, sometimes with Eco times without). Problem: On level 1, 2, 3 ,4 and middle w The blower also runs at level 5 according to the selected stage, but the speed of the blower changes automatically. The set level 5 (or smaller) stops in the display, but the speed changes (you listen to the sound of the blower motor). As if the blower turns on and off, but without clack-crack noises as if a relay switches off and on again. The blower then becomes quiet, the air flow stops and then starts to blow again. Back and forth. Stage 6, 7, 8 or 9 of course the blower also runs, but the speed remains constant according to the selected blower stage. I have read a lot because of the pre-resistance, but then the blower only runs at full level and does not stop at all, right? My autom. climate does not indicate any error, the temperature sensor in the middle above the control buttons is obviously clean and the outside temperature is displayed correctly. What could be the error? MfG

So my little one hit once again. Totally funny, only I couldn’t laugh about it. Yesterday I wanted to go to the workshop, my heating is still net the roarer. Again a dish washer in and then rinse for the second time. But that’s not what it’s all about today. In the driveway there was another one. When I wanted to drive into the yard, it whistled briefly then the battery light came in and the servo turned off. Ergo rib belt is off. This was also lying down in the engine compartment. (in the piece!) Well looked for a short time and found the reason for the mysterious jump. The servo pump for the steering (usually fixed with 3 screws) hung around like a sip of water. Attached only to the upper screw (this was totally loose) of the two lower ones was not there anymore and the other torn down whereby the rest is naturally in the pump housing. Let’s say again I don’t have a horny car……which has really always another stupid fun In stock. And the biggest roarer…two Opel dealers didn’t have these screws and wanted to order them first.Opel how sad!In this sense…it can be blasphemed!

moin moin my name is tobi. i drive an omega a caravan 2.0i. i am also full to friden with that. have just asked a few questions: 1. my brother and i want to exchange the oil in the difrenzal because it is too old. since the caravan is my first car and my brother and i have more idea of kadett and so i wanted to ask op it when changing the oil what to consider. 2. i am still looking for a repair guide for omega a caravan with us everything is done myself. and there i wanted to ask if one still an exenplar .so is made. lying around has been really great got me hammer over tip and tricks happy. fat greetings AUSSEN Norden & Opel Design NF beautiful weekend

Hey people , I have problems with my Ommi . The fuel consumption simply does not want to be less! I have cleaned and renewed everything already what goes e.g. the AGR , cam crankshaft sensor ,Zündkabel ,Zündkerzen ,Zündspule , Luftfilter ,Vergaser ,Injection line u.s.w. I do not drive fast (Opa driving mode) Landstr. 80 km/h that is my daily work path but nevertheless my break is at 10-11 Ltr. on 100 km. There are also no gasoline odors or petrol stains. shows my display in the car completely wrong things in the stand 0 Ltr fuel consumption at 80 km/h 2.4 average consumption 3.6Ltr and with 20 Ltr fuelling a range of 800 km. I would be very happy about helpful tips!

Hello, I’m still quite new here. I’ve only been following the forum occasionally so far. But now I probably need some help. I have a 2.5TD, Omega B Caravan as you can see. For years I’ve had the problem that the performance seems to me often far too low. As soon as I reach the highway 140-150km/h, the performance suddenly collapses slightly. Obviously electronically regulated. I reach the level highway 140, it’s a bit steep I can also I’m not a racer, and I would still be able to do that if I didn’t have too little power to accelerate. Only a few days a year he prefers to be relatively normal. Otherwise, it seems a lot weaker. So far, nobody could help me. Just gave me some premonitions, like a problem with a sensor or the injection pump. Now I ask around here: is the problem somehow known? :/

Hello, My Omega B 2.5 td gave up the spirit a few days ago. I started it normally and drove about 800 meters…after that was over. It just went out and didn’t start again, starter and engine turn, but does not make any preparations to jump… before the sudden death of the engine no unusual noises or other characteristics were recognizable, just went out. I thought it would lie on the injection pump, the fuel switcher In the injection pump I tested (with auxiliary cable bestromt..der switcht) afterwards I screwed off the line at an injection nozzle and looked whether diesel arrives…kahm but nothing. The Esp has been leaking for a long time. The fuel filter is definitely not the cause…it is new. I got a new (used) pump at ebay, but this is still not working. Now my questions: Does the anti-theft or alarm lock work on d ie ESP? So a new ESP has to be learned or released first? Do I have to fill the new pump with diesel or forced filling (other fuel pump switch between) until it pulls diesel itself for the first time? I have been driving the car for 3000km on vegetable oil with two-tank system and therefore have no fuel pump in the secondary tank (diesel tank). However, the car also doesn’t start with vegetable oil from the normal tank with Krafstoffpumpe and there is nothing to do with the injection nozzles. Can it lie on the ESP control unit, is this possibly defective (does the esp actually have its own control unit?) I can’t imagine that both my old and the new ESP should be defective, can I test the ESP somehow differently than in the way I described it? Who can help me???? Thank you….

Hello people, have problems with my Webasto, during the last test run at the beginning of December she ran still normal. Yesterday morning she jumped on but ran only about 5 -6 minutes.After run out of the water pump, restart and again the same. Three – four times tried again, same result. Today again tried twice from the exhaust, gas tank for petrol and ran again like gwestern. Again try, she jumped on ran about 8 minutes and end. BUT at the last attempt I sat in the car and put The blower went on and put out twice very briefly and ran on and put out after about 10 minutes, further par minutes the heater still ran and then switched off. My suspicion is the cause of the problem is that the blower shuts down,but why? Does anyone know advice ? Greetings Caravan-22

Hello people I’m new here and have followed the whole discussion,and also affected by the same problem “starting difficulties after long standing” I’m quite disintegrated with me the esp was found to be broken,the question only how the foh had come up with,no mkl or no error in the memory, and the car starts only downhill,traverses I had last year remake.Leckol lines,battery,a glow candle 2 years ago. the start problems I only have in winter Leerlau I also have saw and have no power drop to detect Can it really be that the ESP is broken, or do I have to renew the traverses again or look elsewhere? I am grateful for every advice. P.S. Yesterday everything went great, today the sow just doesn’t want to start, because I parked andesrum, tomorrow call her again the ADAC and let the error read out.

hello wants to be back on an omega had previously the 2.0 liter kombi now I want to look at a 3.0 liter ecotec limo violet at 20 o’clock and wanted to ask you if the price is ok or I should still trade it down here the data from the car The car is 2HD and has original 108000 km. Service booklet is gapless, vehicle is technically impeccable. For equipment. Full leather seat heating electronically adjustable seats 4*Electronic window lifter Zentraverrieglung Servo Electric R ollo air conditioning automatic wood decor heating in the side windows ABS servo aluminum rims on new tires top condition. To the technique: The timing belt was changed at 98,000 tkm. The last service was made at 106,000 tkm. Brakes, tires top end pot is also new. No maintenance jams, the car has no rust he said to me and is very well maintained how can I test the automatic gearbox many write that it is susceptible to mv6 is true that I have to pay attention to the bender is clear to me h at still tüv until 07-2013 ABS, El. window lifter, leather equipment, light alloy rims, checkbook maintained, power steering, seat heating, cruise control, central locking , front airbags thanks for your advice

Hello, and once again my car left me. From now on straight away. Just shopping was all right. An hour later wanted to go to the service and there it was over. He jumped again 2 times very briefly. The camshaft is still rotated so I assume that it is not the timing belt. Usually it is also that after switching on the ignition for 1-2 seconds audible prepressure is built up by the fuel pump!? Or? Did the injection valve have The two pink relays have already been replaced. Everything has been unsuccessful up to now. Engine goes through properly and doesn’t jump on. Would be nice if someone had a plan or better fuel pump nearby for testing.Thanks