Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello, I have a problem again: the display shows me “light-on driving light”. I’ve read a lot about it, but I haven’t come any further. If I stand in front of a wall, turn on the light and turn on the ignition, then nothing is moving on the light on the wall. Shouldn’t something be moving? I don’t know exactly how to proceed with the troubleshooting. If one or two sensors fail, how would the headlights react? I am currently driving with a broken spring on the left rear axle. Can it be related to this? The car does not stand noticeably wrong. Thanks for every tip!

Hi @ all, I’ve had problems with oil loss for some time now. So far it has helped if I had cleaned the air vents of the crankcase again. But still I’ve had a slight oil loss on the crankshaft on the gearbox side. Suitable for the drop in temperatures in the minus area this problem has developed so that I want to use the time I have available in the next few weeks to do this finally in Angr The facts are: I have to change the valve for the third gear at the AT. I changed the AT oil when I got the first problems with the switching behavior. It took quite a while, but now it’s time to change the valve. In sum, I have to expand the gearbox to the gearbox and for the change of the simmer ring on the crankshaft. I have already tried to search the board but did not find any answers to this problem. My problem is that ic h doesn’t know if I can realistically install an AT gearbox. I just know too little about it. Brake system rep’pen and ZKD change is no problem for me, but with an AT… I have some respect, especially since I have to deal with this alone, so without helper. My question is now concrete: When expanding the AT, the critical point seems to me to be the one at which the converter screws are solved. As far as I understand this correctly, the converter must not be a slip (oil runs out) and on the other hand the gearbox does not edge against the engine. Since I have to get out the transmission oil to change the valve on the AT anyway, I could save some care and concentrate on that I don’t edge anything? But to get to this point for the first time, the cardan shaft has to be removed from the transmission. Is there any tips from you? Greeting staggerer

I’m sorry that I open a new Fred again but everything has become confusing. I’ve been reading all Freds here for a week. Please don’t hit. To my problem: KBW has no current, yellow lamp always starts badly. If I turn off NWS plug it goes out immediately. Rosi… has written plug check whether voltage.. Have turned on the plug that goes apart to the onboard computer ignition and with a phase tester against minus on the battery I have Pin 1 Grey/Black Pin 2 Red/grey (or white) Pin 3 Brau/ red Cable controlled from KBS to computer. No break or something before I tear the computer apart now I ask here again if there is another idea, especially since here in the forum it is written again and again that the on-board computer is very robust. Listen to the inlet air sensor. I also hum for about 1 min when I start the ignition. It also seems to funk. Again excuse. Markus

Hall oils, so heating is in, so far as it works. Works in itself, but have the following problem. Heating turns on (or I switch on manually), it starts, starts to heat. Then after a short time the Klimatronic starts, and the ventilation starts at a very low level. The whole thing lasts about 30 sec. then the Klimatronic stays, but the ventilation is still silent. Is that so normal? I thought that the blower is running on higher tours to heat up the interior. K Limatronic seems to be going when I’m driving. I connected the plan to pin 9 grey plug from the Klimatronic. Is there a separate progamm started? Or do I still have a mistake in thinking somewhere? Would I be happy about help.

Hello together, drive a Opel Omega B 2.0l 16V x20xev. To my problem which is now already a few times stepped up. Engine runs first quite normal speed approx. 800, when I drive then the clutch stops holding down the speed drops and the box sometimes goes off. I observed this when I uncouple and the number drops partly to 500- 600 and then catches again and increases to 800, sometimes it also catches you again from 1000 and regulates slower down to 800. sometimes the car doesn’t even try to catch the speed at 500 and then it goes out like I pulled the key. Does someone ever have a few tips which I can check myself without having to go straight to the workshop? I didn’t even have a month, servo pump was probably defective, shock absorber over and now that’s all. I’ve got another really reliable car. Although he was always with the Opel dealer from the checkheft. Anyway could really use help. Thanks in advance. If you have a few tips then often with pictures I am not a car’ler.

Dear Opel friends! Actually, I am active in the 190s. But soon I will sell my father’s Opel Omega and need your help. I think the Omega could be a special model or an upscale equipment variant. Of course, I would like to specify this when I sell it. How do I find out if this is the case? Maybe someone among you can already determine the model based on the following details. Here the details as far as they are known to me sin d: Type: Opel Omega V6 2.5 HP: 170 EZ: sometime 1997 Drives: Hand-operated 5-speed Wheels: 15 inch Original-Opel Wheels (tires: 205/55 R 15) Automatic climate control (digital displays) Interior equipment: POlster grey (no sports seats), reading lights in the rear, root wood decor, glass sliding roof, 2 airbags A type plate is nowhere attached Thank you for your help Greetings Bocarosso

Hello everyone, I recently joined the Omega B Facelift BJ. 10/99. As an Omega A driver I now need new ground in terms of audio. First of all: The CCRT2007 is installed in the car without Navi. I wanted to replace this with another one with Display/MP3/DVD. Unfortunately I always hear that it would not work with this series. Of course I would want to keep the functions on the steering wheel and BC. Can you tell me how and what I v What are the models that fit? Are there suitable shafts for this? At Opel I was told that there was nothing and that it could not be changed. I thank you for your help. Gruss aki

Troubleshooting for autogas conversion 1300Kl. Omega B, V6, 170 HP, year 1998 ca 18000000 Km. Hello specialists, for a better understanding: I Tuffi 65J. i. R. come from the car trade. I have excellent knowledge in the car area. Therefore everyday remarks about ignition/or working steps in the Ottomote in general are not required here. Apparently here is an electronic hidden fault to suspect: On the matter: wanted, – after I use the about 50 Ltr gas in the retrofit In the case of 735 Klm driven on the motorway, the engine no longer took any acceleration by gas pedal at about 130 klm/h. An automatic switch to petrol, – as described in the instructions did not take place. So I switched manually to petrol. Could continue without interruption my drive on petrol to the Aral-Autogastankstelle. By cartel. I had the changer in Ffm. au. f the fault pointed out. He,- I should calmly refuel, then as arranged 4 days later come to the first auto gas inspection. So I refueled 76Ltr. After leaving the petrol station, on the road, at about 40Kl/h as prescribed, – by hand switched to gas. The engine immediately had a significant power drop. If reinforced foot gas give, an unround bad acceleration. A VERY STARKER GASGERUCH IN AUTO GROWEN. Immediately switched to petrol by hand. RÜSTWERKSTATT per TEL. verkannt. There noted: 6. cylinder (in front li.) no Z.Funke. ( RP. in the Grobraster: Compression all Zyld. 12 Atü thus Z.Kerzen, Z.Spule, all Z. Kabel renewed. Call from UMSettwerkstatt: Auto is OK. Mixture is however still too fat. There would be a specialist from manufacturer, with spare parts. Therefore should car still remain there. Call in the late afternoon: The same damage occurred again. Days later. Tel.: You would have also been informed about Opel m You want to dismantle everything again (including suction bridge, possibly looking for cracks… whatever this may be called. this was before Easter. now I am waiting for news. This was my heart to tell you this. What does the specialist say about this?. Greetings Tuffie

Hello all Opel diesel drivers, I’m new to you here. Have a question about ATM Y25DT, Omega Limo 2.5DTI, first registration 06.2004 KM-Stand: 88TKM At my Omega an injector has said goodbye. (As I read in the Forom probably a normal thing) Have brought my car into the Opel workshop – they have renewed the injector. After that the engine still rubbed. Opel removed the cylinder head ruling a branded piston. Recommendation from Opel ATM for approx. 5600,-€. I also do everything. On my cars, however, never had any problems with the engine. From Manta A to Senator, I did not run a car under 400TKM. This was now my first new car and first diesel!! I urgently need statements whether repererature of the piston with estimate price or ATM and would I get 2 years warranty from Opel on the ATM again? mfG Hombirolf02

Hello together it’s too damned if you’re looking for a fheler at the car in the crisp cold time of all. therefore I try to narrow it down here with the symtom description ,maybe the error is more targeted. For a few days I saw that my Omega MV6 3.0 when accelerating out after the curves conveys the feeling to you not getting enough thrust or some pauses in the form of jerks and then took a ride again. However, this has now become so bad When I had parked my car at home today and left it still running to look for strange things, I heard a whimpering noise from behind it is unusually just behind the car. Going further ahead this noise is quieter, all so this problem has to come from behind. Question is on my side what can this be and a question next to running the cardan shaft owndlic h in the training run continue as beuim truck or only when driving to the power transmission of the rear wheelers. I thought probably eventuel that this part whims. I hope you have given enough instructions to someone to help me pull then I do not need to look for the error for long in the cold.