Category: Smart Forum

Hi, so where do I start?As was described here in the forum (set off brake band and change automatic transmission oil) I did it today.Should be better with my problem, but pussy cake has become worse! Someone might have another idea? Explain it again! Choosing levers set on “D” and start driving.Bremse at a traffic light and wait for green. “D”always inside.Ampel turns on green and wants to drive, then gives a big jerk and he drives off. Between 50km\h and 60km\h when he should put in the last gear the following happens. He switches not into the last gear but turns over.Quasi as if you were at the switch the drive out of the gear.If I have luck he catches himself at 80km\h or I try my luck in which I briefly put the select lever back on “3” and then again on “D”. Hope you can do something with my description and then can help me. Servus

Hello guys, I’m driving a Vectra B 2.0 16V at the moment. But he’s already 300.000km down. I took the car from my mother, but she needs it again. Is a really great car, after 10 years he still brings with him really good performance, he cracks the 200km/h brand still easily and quickly he can drive. However, he is spared, is practically for my mother a child xD. As said, they need the good Opel again. And I have now before me to buy my own car. My budget is limited. However, the choice on an Opel Omega A Gl diamond (use because of the work a big car) is fallen. I looked for it and found it. If everything works out soon a viewing. My question now would be, what should I be careful with this type of car. So type of rust, vulnerable parts or popular Macken. So on good German so, what I should pay attention to when I look at it or make a test ride. In addition, it would be very friendly if I could tell other Omega A owners how to give a big look at the car. I love for this brand. I’s just want to make a quick look at my car.

Hello, with my Omega B Caravan 2,2 the ZMS broke down. Now it should be converted to EMS from the Omega A/B 2,0i. I read here in various forum posts on the topic, but found no part numbers. My question is whether I have researched the part numbers correctly. Would avoid something wrong to buy. Please do not hit if I am here something very detailed with the numbers, but they were all so in the lists at the online parts dealers. Flywheel from the scraper: GM 90280832 pressure plate (various numbers found for the same part): 1. 90 444 860 2. 90 465 921 3. 90 523 571 7. 90 541 096 8. 90 541 9. 90 542 881 Outfeed as before from the Omega B 2,90 779 3. 90 916 522 680 5,90 523 195 6. 90 571 7. 90 541 096 8. 90 542 881. 90 559 2. 90 779 3. 90 516 4. 90 522 680 523 519 6. 90 523 561 6. 90 8. 90 541 8.

Hi I bought a super-cheap Omega B Y26SE. And now my question is normal that a car squirts at low outside temperatures until the engine or the exhaust system comes to temperature. Can it be normal that it smokes white for a very long time? after about 150km driving nothing is to be seen neither in the stand nor during the drive, a short distance of about 20km is not enough. A water loss was not to be noticed on a distance of 2tkm, oil level also fits. He has a quite large exhaust system can this be normal that it is so? Of course it takes some time for all 7 pots (incl. Kats) to be on temperature. To the information of the car stood about 9months and was driven since purchase about 4tkm spark plugs and tooth belts come now, whereby the tooth belt can have nothing to do with it. A performance loss or similar cannot be determined. Thanks MfG FinalFX

Hello to all Omega drivers / inside. I have long thought about whether I should put this in here or not. But how often I stood alone and left in my yard and screwed on my beloved Omega ( 2.0 – 16V Bj 1996 ) And maybe here is the / one or the other that happens exactly like this. I myself live in 61267 New Anspach (Taunus) and am really very peaceful with my “Omi” (good, here and there times a Macke – timing belt, cams / crankshaft sensor, servo pump, cooling water indicator, pressure switch air conditioning, central ventilation – but which car does not have the) and the mesmerized problems you also get yourself in the grip (I say only “multifunction display) should at opel around the 400,- cost – I got with a “sock” again in gear etc. etc. etc. Well, long speech short meaning, if you have a little bit to “simple” – to screw together or just to meet me, then just to say hello to Frank and then just to me.

Hello. I had removed the battery for charging a few days. after I put it back in, the zv doesn’t work anymore. it’s all doors open, via remote radio I hear a quiet clacking direction fuses. it doesn’t do anything. I can open and close the driver’s door by key but the zv doesn’t respond. the main fuse is ok and the interior lighting works. who can please help me. it worked before.

Hello people, Hello screwdriver !!!!! I could use a few tips regarding my engine of the 3L X30XE and please only from screwdrivers who really understand something about it. The problem is that it only starts to crack at 2-2500 rpm. In idle and over 2500 revolutions it is gone. The steering times, marking on crankshaft and marking on cam match 100 per match. Oil tank was taken off, no chips or similar found. In the oil, no traces of bearing damage (copper discoloration) So far I have 4 different views: the one said (master) piston tipper of the second crankshaft Opel said maybel. Tightening roller of the tooth belt the next said hydroslotches I am so slowly despairing, especially now the car, engine half open and nox, camshaft (both right) because the noise is strongest, are no grooves and cams also make a good impression. Who knows about it or who can give help.

Since my Omi has been giving bad polter noises from the rear axle for a few days now, it is now clear; the elephant feet must be new. Dto. also the shock absorbers. As far as everything is clear, now my question, it makes sense to exchange the rubber-metal composite bearings in the triangle handlebar as well as the stabilizers of the rear axle equally with it? If yes, how big is the effort with the triangle handlebars? Stabilagers are, I think, no problem, Stößis either. Have only found posts here about elephant feet. Stößis are probably Bilstein B 4 or KYB, rubber bearing either Meyle or Lemförder. Second question about springs. The springs are installed with rubber bearings or rubber discs. Are there different strengths with Opel with these parts. At the Daimler W 126 the things were from 05 cm to 2.0 or even 2.5 cm thick. Have found in the Ecat so right nothing. Thanks in advance for sound feedback.

Hello parish, Merry Christmas for the first time.I play with the thought of getting an Omega. Now the question. Which engine from 2.6 ltr. Is to recommend? Who can tolerate LPG? Which manufacturer is to recommend? Would like to add a Facelift as automatic from 2.6 ltr. With the good equipment and LPG. After I first sold my old. Found in the search engine only with less engine capacity. Thanks for the tips.

Hello, my brother drives the same vehicle as me. But he can be switched harder, just when the vehicle is cold. He has now 160tkm down and probably the transmission oil has never been replaced. I drove the Opel F28 6-speed gearbox with my Kadett Turbo and Calibra Turbo at that time. There I also had the problem that he could be switched cold rather hard. In the LET forum Castrol SMX-S was recommended to me at that time as transmission oil. After changing the F28 transmissions BUTTERWEICH could be switched! There he was cold better switchable than before warm with the old oil! My question, what do you take with the Omega B switch? If I can believe opel-infos.de so have F28 and R28 (what I and my brother drive) both a transmission oil of the specification “SAE 75W-85 API GL4”. So I would buy now 2 liters of the Castrol SMX-S (means differently by now: http://www.amazon.de/…/B005K95XL2) and fill in. Or there are better recommendations for the HAD oil, but for the same as well as well as well as well as for the HAIR-D oil.