Category: Smart Forum

Hello everyone, my Omega is having some funny problems: In the cold start the engine does not cause any problems, it goes through powerfully after two turns, even at the prevailing temperatures and runs immediately round. If the car is still cold, I can turn off the engine and start again without any problems, even several times in a row. But if the engine is warm, it doesn’t want to start up any more. I have to help with the start pilot then the engine starts immediately and runs immediately round. The FOH wants to replace the injectors, or the whole injection pump, but that’s economical nonsense and probably not necessary. Can anyone help? Maybe some sensor only needs to be replaced?? I am grateful for every tip. Thank you in advance DrBig

Hello together, I hope I’m right here?! I’m looking for an antenna foot, used of course. The thread or thread holder in my atennes foot seems to have loosened, broken off or something like that. Can the antenna turn in any direction is totally loose. Can’t turn it firmly and also not release it and the reception is almost as good as not available anymore. I found at 1, 2, 3…. nothing suitable or only 1-2 the completely scratch look. Just called at Opel: There are still few remaining stocks, have to be ordered. And now they are not produced any more. And now, as a part of it costs at Opel € 411,-. The ticks are not quite clean anymore. I already called at as good as every car conversion here in the perimeter. Only one said that I should call again tomorrow at 12 o’clock, get a suitable vehicle in. I could be lucky. Since I will drive to the North Sea next weekend and will sit in the car for about 3 hours, a functioning radio would be worth a lot. Has any of you a functioning, used antenna foot? Thank you for any advice, Andreas etc.

Hello everyone, I thought about making the track a little wider in the back. Have 225 40 r18 on it. Can anyone tell me how thick the track plates can be at most without making bodywork? I didn’t find it. Drive an Omega b from 1998 the limousine. Thanks in advance.

Hello guys, I need help/reports/tips for the first time. For a few weeks I have had a rough whistle with my Omega B (2.2 DTI, 2001). I immediately thought that the turbo gives up the mind, but: – NO power loss and NO higher consumption – exhaust manifold NOT torn and close to the turbo – when I remove the hose from the air volume meter, the noise is almost gone (it squeals unbearably loud) Please help me with my Latin (and the nerves driving) really at the end. Thank you already.

Hello, I have a cylinder head seal problem on the passenger side of the Omega X30XEV. I had thought to remove the head completely with screw-on exhaust manifold from the block. So far, so good. If not the coolant inlet tube in the way. How do I get to the two rear fixing screws of the coolant inlet tube, or do I not need to dismantle it at all?

Hey dear community, I have an Opel Omega B, BJ 2002, with Design Edition and strange white I have such a simple disc wiper switch without interval. Well, that’s why I got one with interval and a corresponding relay. The alternative to the interval switch with the VW relay doesn’t interest me. Today I tried to install the switch now, here I had the problem that the relay what I currently have for the windscreen wiper has no contact with the relay and also not in the slot I. However, according to the circuit diagram between the cable what comes from the switch with contact J comes to the relay I of the interval potentiometer. Now comes the thick problem I have at the contact J from the wiper switch the 2 cables actually go from or away from the poti (if you go according to the color), but then I have to connect these cables with the poti then I have no cable from the contact J to the relay I already have no connection. And I don’t know absolutely where the 2 Kable go I just don’t know any more, because I have an idea or I can’t find the relay without an interval.

Here are the masses of the complete wheels that can be mounted on the Omega. I would like to know how much mass you have to accelerate – especially the 18″ wide tyre fraction. Winter tyres on steel rim 205/65 R15 to 6.5 J x 15 ET 33 with a Goodyear Ultra Grip 8 weighs 18.5 kg summer tyres on the Intra rim from the Design Edition equipment 235/45 R17 to 7.5 J x 17 ET39 with a Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 weighs 22.0 kg

Hello, after my workshop doesn’t really know what to do, I try this round-around hit. The workshop has read out the following codes from my Omega B Caravan (X20XEV): – P0340 ( 8 ) = camshaft sensor defective – P0351 ( 1 ) = ignition coil A voltage too low – P0351 ( 2 ) = ignition coil A voltage too high – P0352 ( 1 ) = ignition coil B voltage too low – P0352 ( 2 ) = ignition coil B voltage too high – P0335 ( 8 ) = crankshaft sensor defective So, what happens: – for a few weeks the control light ‘motor electronics’ is going on again and again during the ride – sometimes the engine has no more power – off / switched on then eliminates the fault – after 2 times “deleting error memory” were again in the next occurrence of the fault – assumption is that the codes are all triggered at the same time What can be the cause? Would I be happy if someone has seen the same error picture. Thanks already AlfredJodaQuak

Hello. I’m new here and need a little help. My Omega 2.5TD BJ 99 VFL, BMW Motor, Klimatronik, 225T KM shows driving light in BC. When switching on the ignition rules the headlights from top to bottom. When it’s finished with rules comes in BC the error and it no longer regulates up when I stand in the trunk or put on the front bumper. Also, it stays where it is. But I’ve somehow not found the right thing here through some forums. I bought the Omega last year in August. Since then I’ve already had to do control chain and new head+ seals. Now I’ve found that there are no Xenon installed but halogen. The water tank for the disc washing system, however, the exits for the Xenon were blinded probably by the predecessor. Since my Omega`s had no xenon standing a bit in the dark.

Hello together, I’ve always had the problem that my Omega vibrates. It used to be about 50kmh – then I changed the coupling and steering rod (the short part, that means so?) and had the track adjusted. Then it was good in the city for the time being. From 100 onwards it started again. Since the brakes were anyway over, I recently completely installed all four discs / coverings etc.. Brakes now super, however now it vibrates easily from approx. 120 and extremely between 140 and 160. Is really not without… Did the winter tires have pulled up and had it re-washed before, so it was just as bad as with summer tires. Now it can only be eigtl. something from Kardanwelle, right? I have already read some posts in which the middle camp was exchanged, but had the impression that since the opinions differed, when this is often necessary. Or this “hardy disk” (what is that and why the casual name? ) Is the lot of work or even danger in the delay did not happen well there.