Category: Smart Forum

On my fan for the charging air cooler, the winding is burned, which overheats the engine when driving over 130 kmh. Does any of you have a link where I can get one cheaply? MFG Saje

Hello!I have a few questions about the MV6 Caravan.I already have one in mind.Bj.98 with 166tkm, black, beige leather trimming, xenon,navi and the absolute full equipment.The cost should be 5200€.As far as I have compared the price is ok.Or what do you mean?At the moment I drive a BMW 530D Bj.99 with 204tkm on the clock.The fuel consumption at the Bmw is really not to beat.My husband drives it with 6.4l/100km.I can only do it on 7.8l/100km 🙁 Because of the high taxes and because we don’t have any We love it with an MV6 for a long time.Before the BMW we had an Omega B 2.0 16V.No power and with a 9.8l/100km also not very economical.With the MV6 I like to pack up 2l more, but at least have a driving passport!Actually you should think “witschaftlich” in today’s time.But I absolutely want to have the MV6.How much tax does it cost?What would you advise me wisely?Keep BMWW?Buy MV6?Confused greetings Jes sica

Moin, I put my hand on my car again today. Since I apparently have two left hands with five thumbs on each of them, of course, I have broken something again. And this is apparently a kind of distributor, from which, among other things, a filigree tube for the umluftklappe goes off. As you can see in the picture quite well, I have broken off the flange so cheaply that you can only get it again with very good glue. Since I don’t really know how to so of course I didn’t find anything suitable in the program with the three letters. I guess I won’t be lucky with the FOH this weekend. Does someone still have something to lie around and want to get rid of it? Or is it not worth it and I should be annoying the FOH right away? Provisionally I closed the hole with hot glue first, the sog would otherwise have provided for tinitus in the ear…

Hello people, I’m new here and that’s not without reason. I drive a 92’er omega A, 2.0 CD sport, automatic. I love this car!… unfortunately I have the following problem, if I turn the ignition key to start the engine, the power supply collapses, the boardcomuter shows only strokes, the radio loses the code, the starter doesn’t spin at all and the zv tries to close quietly. also the automatic transmission makes grinding noises, at least a two times, at incha Letter ignition. I drove the car normally today, turned it off for about 20 minutes, and then wanted to go again, ratze, from now on on nothing more. the days I had the following problem, during the ride, suddenly the amature lighting went out and the flasher lights and the remote light lamp lit up, speed meter, fuel meter and temperature indicator, everything was dead…after a short time it was then again…maybe it was connected with it? oh yes, if the ignition is on, also only a short time, the minuspole on the battery gets quite warm…. can anyone tell me what this is??? mfg. hausi

Would like to pick up WW from the permanent place. Our 2.0 Omega looks a bit heavy… But in the flat country…. Well, look forward to your opinion and whether it makes sense to install an org. trailer coupling from Opel, as this is already registered in the FB with 1700kg at 10% incline. Lg Tosh

Hello, please for your tips, don’t scold, have used the sufu, but found nothing suitable. So, went as follows: in the summer omega caravan 2.0, 16V, X 20 XEV, EZ 1998, NFL, added, whereupon my Limo EZ 1996, VFL, first the service acknowledged for jealous. Technically it was the sprite pump, which I could fix with your help and also the ADAC very quickly, because I still had a donor omega there. Since I have my thick blue (the limo) right now with of course, I had to enjoy the new crossbars, elephant feet, and, and, and above all, new TÜV stamp. The caravan stopped for the time being, had powerfully empty and deep discharged the battery and had to be peppered up first. Driver’s door was still opened with the key, so much ZVR still worked, only the FFB did not go any more. He started at first sea very disheartened, but with other battery (too small) it went after the change then, he s In order to fill the tank at last (empty tanks are not good when standing) I took him with me to work and he ran 1a, as before silky soft and gentle. At the end of a climb, which he drove up great and fast, briefly the engine stopped, I briefly saw the red generator or oil control light, at least something red in the tacho, and the MKL remained permanently on (no blinking). The next day it took him in the cold condition (about 10-12 degrees) very long until he was mischievous. From then on the MKL remained my constant companion. If I turned off the engine, let the car roll with ignition, the MKL went off after the start about 1 sec and stayed on again. MKL otherwise stays on continuously, if the ignition is off, the engine is off. Starting constantly, whether warm or cold, took forever until it came. Actually, as if he didn’t get a sprite at first. I let him roll then, when possible, to spare the reason. Praiseworthyly, when I arrived at the end of the day At home again and the car had unloaded, he didn’t jump on ERST before the door any more, even though he was warm. Start with a portable battery or start aid (in real polung) in the evening and the following evening did not bring anything. He didn’t have a single pounder. Battery exchange for 70 Ah battery almost new: nothing. Battery about 5 minutes stuck off: nothing. Knock against the tank from below (sprit pump) nothing. Backup 18 (20 A) ok, changed: nic hts About 100 ml brake cleaner in the intake tract behind the air mass meter: nothing. Car is used, therefore ignition cable from the 1st cylinder (to the front/tooth belt) patched with insulating tape, but not yet to change at the moment. There seems to be no spark to come, ignition candle for 1. zyl. placed on the holding eye to lift the motor: no spark. Spark plug from the 1st cylinder NGK BKR 5EK (2 mass electrodes) makes good impression, from the brownish-grey coloring, also no oil-siff, not wet from the fuel. NWS: we were able to measure with digitalmulti only for a short time about 2.4 V, is that ok? I haven’t pulled off a KWS or NWS yet. Where exactly is the white bayonet plug X3 behind the battery? I changed battery several times, especially because you don’t get the big batteries so easily in. What is this box with relays, which is clipped on the relay box in the engine room above the plus pole of the battery. The 1996-Omega doesn’t have that, although One more question to the distributor: Ignition sequence 1-3-4-2, like the VW? Does it turn in the direction of the clock or against it? If it turns in the direction of the clock, I don’t understand the layout. Have I ever copied a picture from motortalk, which Kurt (?) kindly labeled: why isn’t it 1-4-2-3 or if it turns against 1-3-2-4? What do I think wrong? What I don’t think is the question, why is this mistake so complicated? So, thank you so much, I report what your advices do me good.

Hello to the round, because I am currently having a lot of problems with track grooves, I was looking for where it comes from. I noticed that if someone is working on the steering it is a slight “crack”, i.e. game, set up in the LZH. LZH ordered from the FOH and just installed it. I again had to notice with horror that the new LZH has as much game as the old one. The holder of the LZH (wave) has a measured diameter of approx. 17.95mm and the socket of the LZH has as much game as the old one. LZH itself D 18,3mm so good and like 3.5/10 game ?!? So old LZH again a little lubricated and the whole with corresponding torque again tightened and the “crack” was gone and. Can it be that the shaft of the holder is worn and not the socket. Because the holder seems to be a casting or forging part and the bushings look hard (ground surface). Does anyone know the new measure of the holder???

Hello yours, I have problems with my X20XEV, Built. 99, approx. 105 tkm. Forward: The engine was never driven with too little oil, never overheated or similar. Every 10,000 km it gets fresh Castrol Magnatec 10W40. For a short time I have a flap in cold engine condition. It sounds metallic, as if it was a single conrod or crankshaft bearing. If I reach an engine temperature of 90° C or more, it is no longer to be heard. This flap is just variable in speed and changed As far as I could locate it, it comes from the engine block itself. I definitely exclude a “tired” hydro-punch. My thought now goes there, if maybe not enough oil pressure is built up and the flapping is therefore no longer noticeable at high temperature and thin oil. So my next step would be an oil pressure measurement. Do you still have a saving idea? Thank you and many greetings Harry

Hi! On our 1992er Omi A 2,0 Caravan the differential has said goodbye. After we have still one of the 24 V it was close to install this. Some experienced screwdrivers told us in advance that the whole thing is compatible without probs….. after a few hours of intensive screwing we have now determined (differential already installed) that the drive shafts have a larger hole circle on the wheel side than the hubs of the 2.0i. Does someone have an idea how to do this nevertheless properly m it gets connected to each other? Or can we re-extend the whole story and go looking for a diff from the 4 cylinder??? We would like to avoid that if possible…. Thanks+Greetings Jürgan

Hello guys, can that be asked that already, but I found nothing about the search. My climate cools only if I turn down the temperature to the display “LO”. If I turn even a degree higher, so to 16, comes immediately warm air again. Since it cools with LO it probably can not lie on the coolant. Possibly the temperature sensor? My feeler for the outside temperature is also there. Can this also be related to it? Would be nice if someone can help me. Thank you and greeting Heiko