Category: Smart Forum

Hello, it’s time again. After my breakdown two weeks ago and the towing orgy with the ADAC I want to start my Seni now… nothing there, it doesn’t go. In the meantime my sister’s friend has built up a new ignition finger and distributor out of kindness, unfortunately I fear he has inserted the cables wrongly into the distributor.. more like a banging and puffing does not come. The ignition sequence 1-5-3-6-2-4 is clear, I just need to know now just how the cables properly picture?? or something.. would be great, otherwise I come here today garnich mehr vom Hof Thank you in advance

Hi, for the electric cracks this will probably conjure up a smile on the face, but I still ask. The following: For several days, I have been studying various schematics to specific circuits. Up to now, I could assign some relays and fuses which was actually the most difficult for me. In my narrow choice of fault causes, 3-4 relays and their associated fuses have come. Now my actual 2 questions. a: Can you, if I have a similar design, It can find relays in the circuit, replace the suspect with this doubtless, to check whether it is due to this relay? b: The relay in the annex, one could, at ignition one, bridge the pin 4 and 8 on the relay base to check the circuit for intactness? Or is that in the end even more complicated, as I already thought.

Hello first of all I like to drive the Opel Omega REALLY and it is quite cost-effective in the reperature REALLY, but I am NOT a screwdriver and forced to help me with the screwing that are currently Hape0815 and The Stressmaker THANK YOU NOT FOR YOUR SPIT! But the general question, Bzw what becomes a problem for me is the question, if you have an aged omi with high mileage and maintenance stowage, whether the crafting will ever have an end? At the moment in my case as if one solves a problem and two other new ones are getting up. Now the TÜV hangs on June 1st like a threatening sword, over the whole thing. Now, for me as a screwdriver emptyling the question arises, still put money in the car, like in a barrel without floor? Or say OK I drive the still until June as it is and then buy another Omi what do I know an FL or something? Because please doesn’t understand me wrong, I love my Omi and it would also but I don’t want to have a permanent construction site, especially because my partner ( long distance relationship ) lives 550 km from front door to front door and I just need a reliable car and I don’t want to be scared every time. I just wanted to hear your experiences and opinions about how to act? Or get TÜV off and save on another OMI? Greeting Roland

Hello guys That this abs light is coming all the time I’ve already got used to it that she stays on jut jut is not nice but now comes the other yellow engine symbol and that stays on which of you can help there ? but please don’t turn me out for it ich zu DOOF would be nice if someone lives near me and helps me on the jumps so I know if it’s worth putting money in the omi I don’t know if mine is right in my profile therefore ez 97 2.0 /16 V 100kw Automatic/climate 125000km Thanks for the micha

Hi, for a few days I hear a short sum in my Omega B Caravan 2.5 TD after the start, which shuts down again after approx. 2-3 seconds. At the same time I noticed that the rear has increased by a few millimeters every day, so that the car now comes quite high legged. Consequently I realized that the level control now every day assumes that the car would be heavy loaded (but is empty) and wants to balance the level accordingly… Had Any of you already found the same problem and a solution without having to go to the workshop?

I would like to raise the Omega A Caravan to treat the underbody. What do I need for this? I don’t have a very flat floor, but only a slightly sloping yard, where the one side is about 10cm lower. After reading all possible variants with two ramps, 3 shunting car lifters, 2 ramps + 2 bucks, only one side on 2 bucks, car can change when lifting unevenly, ramps with integrated jack, etc., I thought about something like this: http://www.tbs-aachen.d e/…/…cke__Unterstellboecke_6t_i73_22358.htm andhttp://www.tbs-aachen.de/…/…agenheber_30_t_140-510_mm_i73_4443.htm Can you get this car on 2 or better 4 bucks? I asked the lady from this shop, she thinks you can’t lift a car on 4 bucks, because after that you can’t put it on 2 bucks on the lower side. Theoretically, it would be possible to set the jack 4 times, at each wheel once, or once in the middle of the front and back. At what points do you set these lifting devices in this car?

Dear Omega friends, an era is now coming to an end. My beautiful Omega is sick and I have to give it away. A lot of money and love has been invested in the car, but now he has to give way to an Astra J Sports Tourer. I would like to hand over the car in loving hands here. At the moment an X30XE V6 with a KME gas system is rolling in the car. Performance is over 230 hp. The car has TÜV until April 2017. Engine is still running well and clean, does not burn oil, however it oils. The cylinder head gasket. Now it also has a little oil in the cooling water circuit. Water loss does not. Think it is slowly breaking the head gasket. Since I have invested a lot of money and new parts in the car for the last TÜV April 2015 and last year then still the timing belt, water pump, cooling water thermostat, cooling water pipe, new cooler, new climate cooler with dryer, heating valve, new heat exchanger heating footroom, 4 new Zimmermann sports brake discs punched, aluminium valve kel, new coupling with pull-out cylinder, wheel bearing, Niro Jetex Group A sports equipment and much more have changed, I think it is too bad to scrap it. This should only be a short list, if interested there are more detailed descriptions. I will take pictures now and can gladly adjust them or send PN. Many greetings Otto

Good morning, all I have read this message completely, but find no solution. In my case, the following is the case: I have an Omega B with automatic air conditioning but the heating is only warm on the passenger side with me (i.e. driving side) everything ice-cold itself remains the seat heating. What can that be?? Also the fan or the blower like this is only delayed. Directly after the reset car and off pressing they also go. On Eco function also does not change S. How do you possibly have to flush something? Many pictures or so where does the termostat sit if the hood is damaged?? Or in another forum son servo is described in the footroom? What can I do?? If I turn on the climate, for example, to make my windshield free of fog on the right side Warm (hot) air Out. Left side all ice cold footroom Left disc and just left air outlet. With Hi and Lo nothing changes. LG ANDY

Hello, now the A-Ware spins around… Of all places I need it.. It runs well in itself, but has dropouts with increasing frequency. Even in thrust mode, you can see how the rev counter drops by 500 turns, but there is no rupture and the real speed does not fluctuate of course. Also no light or anything. On normal drive, the whole thing then turns out to be incl.. The schematic is indeed from the cadett http://www.vectra16v.com/slp/slp_kadett_e_mj87.p But df should be the right one for the 4.2 motronics. What would be the most likely thing now? Crankshaft sensor or ignition coil or STG or…? MKL doesn’t come… The dropouts are also very short, under a second I would say. But the engine feels completely out and is immediately resuscitated…

hello, I guess I’m about to have to say goodbye to my omega…at the front left side of the long haul, right on the axis, rusts it through! the car was just on the stage to weld, but the workshop refused to do it then, because this place would not be to be welded. unless he had a prefabricated repair plate (3mm). now I ask you, is there such a rep sheet for the omega b? or can you weld there? many thanks and greetings