Category: Smart Forum

Hello together, about 4 months ago I bought an Omega BJ 2000. After a relatively short time the problems started. The MKL went on and the car drove in the cold conditions quite restless. Well it was also very cold in January. When the car started to sink after the start I then brought it into the factory atatatt. Errors were read out and reset. The spark plugs were apparently under water and were replaced. After that the car drove about a week without problems. The MKL however Then the same thing started again from the front. Ruckle in the cold condition. From time to time after the start. However, as soon as the car was warm he drove without murmuring. This time I took him to another workshop. The spark plugs stood according to the engineer in the oil. Thereupon a seal was changed on the engine. 2 days he ran great, then the same game again. Meanwhile he can not drive anymore. After starting he runs 2-3 sec. and goes d from us, he jerks off quite strongly, but sometimes he just goes out again. When trying to give Gaß he says goodbye immediately. According to the workshop, it’s because of a leak of the Krummer. Can these problems come only from this? Meanwhile, the old box has cost me 1,500 euros only at workshop costs. Slowly this becomes too much for me. For the exchange of the Krummers again 550€ are due. and somehow I am not convinced that the P It is an Omega 2.2 16V automatic + cruise control. If there was a similar problem already (unfortunately found nothing suitable) I am already grateful for the hint. Many greetings Markus

Hello! I’m new here with my 1994 MV6 with air conditioning, but without automatic air conditioning and have the following problem: The heating gets a bit warm only with increased speed, although the water temperature is 90 degrees… My questions: – My MV6 only has an additional water pump at the front of the cooler. Should it always run? – Under the balance tank I only have the e-gas. Should there be a 2nd? – Does the normal water pump have plastic wings that can break? I am grateful for any help! Theo

Hello, I had bought in 08/05 an Opel Omega B 2.0 16 V from a BMW dealer for 5,200,-EUR. Built 04/99 and 78000km down with checkbook. As far as I think so good. Now at 107,000 km the camshaft sensor was broken and I had it changed at another FOH (by moving other federal state). That said, the timing belt is not set correctly and a little loose. I told Him why you didn’t really tense this, he said, since we go for warranty talk It’s the FOH who changed it. Well, now I have a meeting Monday with the responsible customer service manager. How should I behave? Who would have to “change” it properly or “change” it”? Is this internally charged with the FOHs? Distance between new and old FOH almost 800 km…. Please for advice and tips, don’t want the engine to break. Thanks.

Hello, I am driving the 4th Omega (A and B) and last year I bought an Omega b Facelift, Bj 2001 with 65,000 KM (renter car with new TÜV). Kilometer level now 75,000 Km, 2.2l ,automatic, petroler. After the purchase all liquids and pay belts changed. So far I had no problems. 5 weeks ago I had start problems and the maintenance lamp went on for the first time. With Tech2 I read the error: throttle valve value implausible! After that until yesterday no Then, however, in the middle of the city, the engine went off idle. Restart only with an increased number of 1500 U and no gas acceptance. I then pulled the plug off the throttle flap and plugged it up again. After that the engine ran again flawlessly. Error memory was again “rossel valve value implausible”. After that no more interference. It is also no longer possible to detect a docking. The car drives 0W40 oil from the beginning. Does anyone have an idea what is going wrong here? Nikolaus

Now that the cold season is coming and will surely have some problems with reaching the operating temperature at the Y25DT by a defective AGR thermostat, I have now finally closed the housing. The closure plug has proved to be not 100% safe – it has moved a piece into the hose, I have removed the “Lyra spring” and removed all parts (thermostat, spring and sleeve) from the housing and the bore of the connection piece with a Z ylinder head screw M6 x 15 and an M6 nut closed. – fits exactly, possibly use a self-locking nut and washers. Be careful when installed – the connector fits only in one position. LG robert

Hello together! Have the following problem with my Ommi because of the Irmscher sports package: Does he have yes. Threshold, exhaust with double tailpipe, etc… No tuv because no papers of it or because not registered?! And the exhaust would not go at all?! Because there is a diesel and there they must be bent down?! Straight away forbidden?! What now? Furthermore I have for the summer 235/45 ZR17 on it! With the original executive equipment 17 customs officers of the Opel They are not registered, m the stupid idiot… I say hello!!! This is rime with original from Opel! The, EGAL! Registered are 195/60 R15, or was it 205er, I honestly don’t know anymore… Have the papers in the car. WHO CAN HELP???

Moin people, have read me in this thread as well as other entries on the above topic: https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…pontaneous-oelloss-t5735850.html?… With me the oil also hung on the left carrier and was unsure where it came from. When I then pushed the hose with heat protection by side I could see that it came out with the adjustment screw. I first helped me out with a copper disc – also works very well over the oil tank. Questions: Is this e in the “typical” place where it leaks? Does the hexagonal screw serve exclusively the fei setting or can it also be “tightened”? Would an aditiv possibly be sensible? The flat mother actually sat bomb-proof on it and in the balance tank was also enough oil. Rather too much, since it stands above the second marking

A hello to everyone! Winter seems to be over. I had an engine wash done at FOH, with conservation. I didn’t want to keep the result from you! The engine was not that clean even when it was delivered! 🙂 I’m more than thrilled! I hope you can see something! If anyone is interested. It cost me (NUR!!) about 25 euros! Greetings Tobi!

… and something else! Just don’t buy the oil leak line at the FOH. Satte 29,98 € per running meter should cost the hose. I wanted 1.5 meters – costs would be exorbitant! At TROST they wanted to sell me only 15 meters on the roll, however for 3,00 € the meter!!! The costs would be the same however. And now comes … drive to ATU. An eyelash and 3 looks on my ass later I had the 1.5 meters return hose in the hands … for nicht !!! HA AH 😉 EURE MISSY PS : Hopefully after changing the lines the diesel smell finally goes away !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi, I’d like to join the Opel community and before that I’d rather look for the advice of people who know about the beasts. I just need a huge station wagon to load and drive quickly. I wanted to buy a Passat 35i first but I like the Omega A caravan much better from the size. The 2.0 8V engine I think is a little too weak on the chest, so my eye fell on the 2.6 or even 3.0s Now I’ve read that the most part al This is why I would like to convert it to Euro two or even three if three is possible at all. But two should already halve the taxes. What would I need to upgrade the one??? Bzw, what do the parts cost me at the cheapest place? Installation I do everything myself. What should one pay attention to when buying an A Omegas? Wanted to spend a maximum of 600-700 on the vehicle, I am myself a screwdriver, who has an ode r other little story I can fix myself. Greetings and thank you for your answers, Robert