Category: Smart Forum

Hello, I wanted to ask you what you are saying about one who wants to have a turbo screw on his X20XEV without thinking about his motor. so it’s so he has about 120tkm down and the master just wants to have a turbo on it. I mean he’s a bissel deppert because without a special piston etc. that won’t work. now your opinion what do you think is worth it???P.S. I said when he pulls it through without other pistons he comes so about 500km far m it of the machine. mfg

Hello people, after I’ve been busy intensively with CLET and ZLET/LEH conversions in the Vectra B, next snap idea comes into my head: Z18LET. Kling funny.. it’s also. CLET engines can no longer be entered in mine, exhaust emission standard (EZ 03.2002) Z20LET engines have too high mileage and need as well as CLET complete overhaul, in addition the expensive Z20LEL/R/H engines are even more expensive and heavier to adapt in the Vectra B, even if you take STG and wire harness from the ZLET, sa I have no ESP/TC, of course no CAN, and I will certainly not retrofit it. My idea is simple: Taken the existing Z18XE forging piston (individually manufactured) with the reduced compaction made steel rod built in head renewed/refurbished Turbokit by DBilas screwed on it, with changed LLK (original is a joke by Bilas) and possibly loader F28 screwed on it (somehow it is made possible, RR should fit) On E8 5 adapted And everything (at least Turbokit) legally registered.. What do you say, snap idea or possible? Greetings

Hello Does anyone have experience with the company EDS-Vehicle Technology or results (experiences) with optimized engines there? Thank you LG maan

When turning the ignition key to position 2, all control lamps in the speedometer should start, the MKL does not start until the engine has started? If the crankshaft sensor sets its signal? So at which event does the MKL run out again? My problem. With about 10 start attempts one is there where my MKL is not on in position 2 and the engine does not start. The control unit has voltage.

In our company, 22 liters of normal gasoline were filled yesterday by an employee in the 52 liter tank of an Astra H, 1.7 l CDTI BJ 2008 (no doubt, video recording of the tank is available, as well as the tank receipt), so 30 liters diesel plus 22 liters of normal gasoline, and then the good lady drove 450 km mainly BAB and federal road, without, she says, even the least thing to notice on the vehicle / engine. The thing was only noticeable because the tank card refused the booking (is just on Diesel programmed) and the amount had to be paid in cash today The vehicle was towed today by our company to Opel and is now being examined for damage. So the car was safely driven over 450 km (drive book record). The question is only HOW? We ask ourselves now whether the engine in such a case does not give any signals that it is uncomfortable… ringing, power loss, unround running or dying in idle, wrong display in display o Whichever. Does anyone have any personal experience with such a situation? Can it be that the engine runs easily without sounding, even though it has over 40% gasoline in the tank?

The problem has been around for about 14 days -3 weeks, at least I noticed it there first. The car blows off and after it was driven and then turned off. If it starts again, there is a solid blue cloud, but: – it doesn’t always happen and totally irregular – it doesn’t blow permanently, when a certain amount of oil is burned, it stops and does not occur again – sometimes it only starts a few minutes after it starts – oil consumption normal (200-300ml / 1000km, was scho n always so and the engine is kicked regularly, oil pressure & oil temperature normal) -no oil in the water, no water in the oil It seems as if oil is gathering in or before the exhaust, because I can’t get in any system, because it doesn’t always occur, as I said, and after a few minutes / max. 3-5km distance stops by itself. The whole thing has occurred in the last 3 weeks in total 4x and I have no idea why. Someone already had an idea or something like that?

Good day dear M-T municipality, I have a question about the engine / camshaft. The following problem: Our Astra G makes “folder” noises from the engine. Thought only the hydros will come into question at Opel but it is typed that it is the camshaft. I have to change both however the camshaft costs times just over 500 euros. But I still have an old engine lying here where I am sure that the camshaft is good in shot. Only I don’t know if I’m lucky to have the di so to the question: Fits the camshaft from an XEL 1.6 16 V into an Astra G 1.6 (no16V) 75hp/55 KW Bj 1999 Zu1 010230 Zu2 0035 (T98) If there are any other tips on the topic always so thank you already in advance

Hello, I have 2 problems with my 1.7 CDTI 74 kW (Z17DTH, Bj sometime in the summer of 2004). First problem: When I go on the gas the engine jerks. So the engine immediately responds to the gas and accelerates, but only a fraction of a second, then it jerks briefly (stops speeding up) and only then it starts to accelerate properly… (well, the problem wanted to describe as precisely as possible, if I had said the engine jerks briefly when accelerating would have worn off The same problem exists when I take my foot off the gas. It slows short, jerks short and delays further… (delay in the sense of the motor brake)… The less the gear, the more extreme the jerking… In case of stalling traffic in the first gear, you will be stupidly driving now since 22,000 km with this problem and the previous owner probably already the first 14,000 km The FOH could of course do nothing… Warranty has now expired… Second problem: In the case of rotary fences … I have heard the problem here more than once, but only with petrol engines… And the loud, rough noise only occurs suddenly at over 3000 rpm… It’s not the typical diesel nailing. And here too: The lower the gear, the worse… An idea of what causes it?? Thank you, Thomas