Category: Smart Forum

The following problem: My Omega always had a few problems in the cold start and this also at about 1500 revolutions. Since he also lost a lot of oil I went to the bottom with my brother yesterday together with the problem with frightening result. The oil loss seems to have been caused by a defective valve cover seal, which did not hold the oil back towards the candle bench. In the following two candles stood completely in the oil. When my brother wanted to screw them out brewc This is how we alarmed a compression pressure measurement with frightening result: seen from the front: cylinder 1: ca 4 bar, cylinder 2: ca 4 bar, cylinder 3: ca 8 bar and cylinder 4: ca 10 bar. After a short crisis consultation we decided to dismantle the cylinder head. About 3-4h later the head was down and you could see the mine. The valves themselves sin d still completely and also not burned in the head, which was my biggest concern. However, the ventli shafts, if one looks into the exhaust channels of cylinder 1-3 white, only cylinder 4 has no such discoloration. The head now goes to a motor repairer of the hardened valve seats installed and the ventlile grinds accordingly. Once I have brought the cylinder head back we come to the next problem: How do we get the cylinder head properly mounted? I definitely need ne oe gaskets for the suction bridge, for the cylinder head, for the exhaust manifold and new standing bolts as well as nuts for suction manifolds and probably also new cylinder head screws. I have already experienced so much. Now, however, a problem comes into play which I could not solve: the suit order (my brother meant with some engines it would be, but did not know if the omega engine was included) of the cylinder head screws and all torques. I hope you can help me. p.s.: I am They could and should have told me that the valve seats have to be made, or at the latest in one of the two inspections the compression can be measured and thus find out that there is something wrong… Well, at least the costs are kept within the frame, the insertion of new valve site incl. grinding of the valves costs about 35 euros per valve, which then for all 8 outlet valves 280 Euro are valid + new seals and screws, for which another approx. 100 Euro have to be planned (or is it useful here to buy a complete Dirchtungssatz for approx. 140 Euro?). Still goes, fortunately I do not need a new Ventlie (I hope, but they still look good from what I can judge).

Since I have now planned to overtake my omi, after it was first technically restored, now also finally to overtake body, I ask here simply for practical tips of experienced screwdriver colleagues. Especially underbody, and some interspaces were simply not noticed by the previous owner at all in the last years, therefore the “gammel” spreads so slowly, and it is time to put the (still surface) rust to rest… So the question, how did you drive your Omis the Brown Pest out of the dress, and make sure that she doesn’t come back again? Mechanical derusting is clear, and that has to be sealed afterwards so that the gammel no longer has an attack point, but what construction from naked sheet metal did you use and have had good experiences? Strip sheet metal, then lubricate liters with fertan, primer on it… in edges & Palatinate Mike Sanders pure… Gives mass-wise products, suggestions and ideas, but which are the best solutions ? Please for tips !!! (Is certainly also interesting for other Omegans) EDIT : Please for a factual Threat, maybe this would be something for the FAQ ??!!

Hello with each other, have the following problem. My omi has always wrestled in idle. Speed was between 500 – 600 revolutions. Just a short time ago I drove 100 km highway and got into a traffic jam. First there was the low speed range again. Then however, this went up to 2500 revolution and further gas input. At the same time I had a power drop of the passing force. Acceleration was therefore even worse than that of a “real” omi. The next day they drove into a free workshop. They probably changed a gasket in the intake area. The omi runs now in idle mode with approx. 850 revolution nice calm. I can now also accelerate, however I have the feeling that the acceleration is not so good before. I have just been on the highway again. From speed 130 km/h the speedo needle continues only more slowly. I mean that the omi is not a racing car, it is clear to me. However, the omi should also her 20 0 – 210 km/h fast driving. At the same time the fuel consumption has increased. Last time I had 8,3 liters on 100 km highway with speed 140 km/h on average. Today it was 10 liters on the same route, same loading,… Does anyone have an idea what could be going on? Had now as next step actually to drive to the FOH and let the Omi read out. Other suggestions? I thank already in advance. Greeting Christian

I’m here for the first time and must say, quite enthusiastic. Unfortunately, I’m also no less desperate. For some time my X25DT has become very hot under load. Especially under full throttle on the highway. FOH thinks that thermostat and cooler have to be changed. I did, also oil change in the automatic transmission. Unfortunately, after this very expensive history no improvement occurs. crankshaft and head have checked. You know the thermometer in the omega, can it be 100 degrees fast and as soon as I go off the gas the temperature drops again like a stone from the sky. Are the sensors in the cooler perhaps responsible? Well, I would be very pleased with the answers. MfG Björn Krause Omega X25DT, Bj 1996, 170,000Km, Automatik und Klimaautomatik, Leder ud Xenon.

Hello together, turn me here with a very urgent question to you and indeed we have our V6 for six weeks and the first four weeks he ran nicely round and we were totally satisfied, but for about 10 days he is not running properly, very restless! We had the suspicion that a marten has eaten something and had him there also in a free workshop! The marten was definitely inside (hairs were found) but really have a mistake or defect they ni The spark plugs didn’t look so great anymore, so they were renewed just like the ignition cables! Everything nice and good but it still runs restless! They told us it could be on the ignition module but that wouldn’t be sure! Have I read in here a little bit and found out that there might be a lot more of the triggers! By the way, he does jump in without any problems, partly he’s rusty when giving gas! Does that speak for the ignition module? W He has experiences with it? Would you like to exchange this module next? Or maybe he will do otherwise? My husband is rather perplexed at the moment, so I turn to you and hope for your help and experiences!

A beautiful one! Some time ago (so too long ago…) I bought an X20XEV with engine slashes. The good thing is, the new (remained) engine is in it and everything is already done. The bad one, however, is that I no longer know exactly where which vacuum lines are connected. Unfortunately I failed to mark the lines before cleaning… I looked in the search, the same concern had probably already a few people in front of me. Unfortunately always oh a useful result (for me anyway). I can assign a few due to the lengths and bends but I still have some of the injection, AGRV, coal filter and the interior with which I am 100% sure. Would be nice if maybe someone could adjust to the quick times a few pictures so that I can check the project off… Thanks in advance! MFG Marco

Hello, I have the following problem: My Omega 2.5 diesel automatic doesn’t pull properly. I’ve had an OmegaB diesel with manual transmission before, that was an essential difference. (However, the difference between hand-operated car can’t be an FAll, but it’s too tough for that). The car takes forever until it’s 100km/h and even makes 135 points. What’s especially surprising is that my current engine sounds different when it comes to giving gas. That with my last Omgea typisc He turbo-whispering is not right to hear. Is it perhaps the turbocharger? How can you find out if it is the turbo? Many thanks to everyone who can give me a tip.

Hello, drive an omega b bj.`03 with the 2.5 dti with approx.149,000km today I noticed during the ride, which he had a huge loss of performance(60km/h was hard to reach) and the turbopipe was gone.To come, which he bluishly felt and definitely after oil stank.until the next parking place this became worse and worse. since I had read here always something about the crankshaft housing, I opened the then:totally oiled!!!! my question:is really enough, replace the filter and the cover of it? or maybe the turbo?? my omni has really excruciated!!! would be grateful for any help!!! maybe someone from the ruhgebiet comes who can possibly help me further mfg rolando

Hello guys! We’ve bought ten Seni with automatic 3.0 24 V BJ.91, our first automatic, so we’re still asking ourselves a little stupid and inexperienced, so sorry, for the stupid questions that come now !!!! After 12 pages forum search here still the biggest unanswered question: Ööhm, we have an automatic transmission of an Omega-A 2,6 lying around in the Wörkstatt. That should be in the Senator, which according to the previous owner has a gear damage (no longer peels, gear leaks) t. After the forum search and all the technical descriptions (help??Nix understood…AR35 or AR25) we are not so sure whether this fits in the Seni as planned.And before we start a huge stupidity, I think, I’d rather ask Saublöde.

Halöle I’ve mentioned it before that I don’t get the error somehow when the engine is running it locks off at 4500 turns but I turn off the key when the engine is running around and again the error is gone and the drive is normal today for the second time changed the NWS and the wiring is made new after instruction http://www.motor-talk.de/…/Attachment.html?attachmentId=670737 the first NWS was from the booked the second is from Siemens no change have d search for codes and find the following :http://www.vectra16v.com/fc/errorcodes_simtec.html and various other stg everything went through timing belt voltage tested past the control times (belt disc checked off and with decomposed ignition plugs “lt opel” fits wiring again went through everything i.o. with defective kws would the nevertheless not start at all if the nws is off or ??? has someone else an idea where I should still look am shortly before to bring the omi to the shredded