Category: Smart Forum

Moin, were just on the road with the Omega B Caravan x20xev of a friend in the direction of Nuremberg from lübeck, (Kasseler berge and 150km before that continuous fire up to max tacho 225kmh) than when sliding with about 100kmh at once gave a slight blow….was not loud, not strong.. felt as if a glass bottle rolled against the seat frame. 150m further he started to nail when stepping on the gas… we then drove 200m later on to a rest place and there in the standing gas the öll The oil was definitely incredibly hot….I burned my nose on the rod when I wanted to smell at the oil….. oh yes, out of the engine space it smelled slightly after burnt oil, but it was nothing outside the engine. well, I listened again to the open hood and the noise comes as far as I really appreciated from above direction hydrostumps….but so don’t clap any worn-out hydros… sounds rather as bearing damage > crankshaft….but for that comes the noise from too far up and too early…. timing belts is ok. He still has power, only how much can we not say… the adac only drove him to the tow truck. the car was from 1996 and ran about 190tsd. timing belts is ok. he bought 6 days ago. there’s a great tip? I read a lot, but found nothing suitable… the reason why the engine could not go through so easily I don’t know. I don’t know.

Hello dear Opel community, I am Claudio, come from Obernkirchen in Schaumburg and unfortunately had to make a negative experience. I am currently offering an Omega B 2.5 automatic,EZ 97, special model Buissnes with only 85,000 km in silver for sale, but I have had to experience that one does not appreciate such a well-preserved and well-kept piece of jewellery. The previous offers were rather ridiculous.The highest offer up to now was 1500 €. Something little as I find. Now they gave me the advice mi Now my question to you, would anyone of you have an interest in my Omega? I have the Omega the 2nd time at ebay and additionally at mobile. Here is the article number at ebay: 300550190126. You can look at it and judge it yourself. I would be very happy about an answer from you. Greetings from Schaumburg Claudio

Moin! I’ve been reading around for hours now and I’ve come across a lot of interesting information – except for the one I’ve been looking for…. And that’s when I have some burning questions in my mind. My Omi with Opamatics is about to get a new engine, and I’m already looking for all the contingencies in my head. How much torque do the converter screws get, and do you have to replace them? has anyone ever taken out a 4cylinder with the two-part oil tank up without a transmission, but without opening the air conditioning and servo? Or doesn’t that fit the compressor? Does the advocates of all methods exist, and I’ve only done it down until now, but because it’s an opamatic and I want to let the wires all go up, the majority prefers the method down, I think… If you get the converter down, it’s the one that’s the one that’s the one that’s the one that’s the one that’s the one that’s the one that’s the one that’s the one that’s the other that’s the one that’s the other that’s the one that’s the one that’s the other. Is it possible to get it well pressed through the hole at the bottom of the bell? And do you get a relatively good grip on the converter screws, or do you have to get rid of the Vorkat?

Good day, parish, once again I have to burden you with a problem and hope to find someone who already knows this or similar problem and knows how to fix it. For about a week I have had the problem that the car shakes quite strongly if you have to keep it in idle mode somewhere, be it a traffic light, intersection or driveway. The switch knob jumps quite far back and forth (2 centimeters in every direction) and you feel that you have already poured many times Since THE MOTOR CONTROLLEUCHTE did not show me any indication of any errors (has not even lighted up – but works), I started from the spark plugs. However, they are already changed (except for one that I somehow can not get out, sits too tight). The only difference was that the car now starts louder and ignites faster, but that was already it. Unfortunately, the problem with the wobble engine is not fixed. When I just went into the garage after that I got behind the car (engine was still running) and I noticed a rather stalling exhaust. What makes me so stubborn is that the engine is shaking at idle, but the speed does not change, it remains constant on the spot (mostly so slightly over 500 revolutions, sometimes a little higher). From around 1200 revolutions the vibration / wobble then stops. The air mass meter is only new, before that the MKL had given me false air values. gt, after I changed the thing, the lamp was then permanently out again. Where do I have to / can I still check? What do the signs of engine and exhaust indicate?

Hello everyone, I’m new here in the Opelforum and I already have a big problem.My Omega 2.2 running tune 230000Km, needs Oel about 1.5 liters at 1000Km. If he has stood for more than 12 hours he only runs on three cylinders in the first minute which indicates a defective head gasket (water consumption).In addition, he makes noises below the exhaust manifold (rass).The noises do not change with warm engine. I’d rather have a second-hand engine that ran less. Does anyone have a tip? Greetings, Andreas

Hello to the sociable round here, have read me already a few days here Querbeet…….and also get useful hints before I bought an Omega 3.2. Not too long ago I discovered a midnight black Omega 3.2 Design Edition, year 10/2001, on the net. The Omega had been proven (every year at Opel in the KD) about 33,000 km. I think it will be hard to find another Omega 3.2 with demonstrably so few km…. Za In 2009, the last time was changed. Krümmer seems to be dense……at any rate, nothing was heard. It came from a former Opel employee, now retired (non-smoking). Leather equipment (beautiful dark green) at the front almost new….there was probably never anyone sitting….so new When I was transferred to my home (Stuttgart) about 250km comfortably on average 115 km/h back I used only 10.5 l. Each km was a poem…………the ergonomics in the interior could n the 218 hp is quite sufficient, even from 200 km/h it still has enough thrust. In short: a wonderful car at a reasonable price/space/performance ratio. Will use the vehicle as a pure summer car (about 5000km/year) , because it is too bad for me in winter, a small car has to hold here. I hope I remain spared from the well-known zipper of the Omega ………

Hello, again my grandma is on strike. Last night gg. 20:00 o’clock Grandma parked in front of the house. This morning at 09:00 o’clock it should go to football with the son. But nothing there . . . . that attracts thanks to a new battery which I did with in January, but fully through does not start. But now the glou : and again the petrol pump is broken. And although I stopped last year on 29.04.11 in Berlin, the pump could not be installed on site rep. therefore at the ADAC. K napp 8 weeks later (25.06.11 ) the grandma stays on the highway again, petrol pump in the rear again, off to Opel Peschel in Dresden. By chance the workshop has the same spare part supplier as in Berlin the ADAC. So they exchange them free of charge. What should I do now, a loud one at Peschel, or is there still a guarantee or something on it. What would you do? How would you behave? Thank you for help.

hello people I have a problem with my omega B X20XEV the MKL goes to I have of course already read out and it comes the code 0130… voltage of the circuit of the Lambda probe what great statement^^ what exactly does this mean now? and yes I have already used the sufu… today I bought a universal 4 adrig LS it built in and see because the MKL still comes then I thought well possibly wrong wired because the cables colors of the new LS and the ones of the old do not match do not try another way… how does it look like with the universal LS the nix? is the motor so sensitive that he notices that it is not an original part? or is there the possibility that something else could be broken with the 0130? if what? I have already looked up the cables that are all ok…I hoped that the universal LS fits which has also cost around 60 euro at another dealer costs another LS around the 90 and the bird purely priceless the FOH himself who wanted to be smooth 194,98 of me… what still amazes me is that since the error code is there in the BC also *light* can be connected to it? i can’t imagine it myself but it wouldn’t surprise me at the omega b any more… so now i hope that one of you can help me… already many thanks in advance…

Hello, I went to acquaintances and parked the car (Omega B 2,5 V6 Built. 95) quite normally. Up to here everything Ok. When I came back to the car, I turned on the ignition all the lights went on, ventilation and radio everything as always. But when the key to start went through, total power failure. As if the main fuse had burned out. I checked the three large fuses in the fuse box and the two large fuses in the triangular fuse box in the Engine compartment, but all are fine! Then I measured directly at plus and minus pole of the battery, there I have electricity. However, I do not have electricity at the cables connected to the poles! What could it be? 1. Main fuse, where is this exactly? 2. Mass cable to the body or loose? 3. Alternator defective Did one of you ever have this problem? Or someone an idea what it can be? Greeting Sebastian

Hello guys, so I have a question. I have water loss with my omi. I say about 1500km/1L water. Last year I had the head seal done. They were also re-planned. Krummer gasket/water pump/dental belts were also changed. Now I wanted to drive in 2 weeks on holiday and was at a workshop today to find out why the car loses water again. The mechanic wanted to check if he can measure exhaust gases in the water tank. He then pushed a small pump on top of the part and sucked in the air. Until then everything was fine. But without being able to measure it accurately, the water rose up in the container and started to bubbling. He said that it should not overflow like this and at the same time throw air bubbles. The mechanic said that it could lie on the ZKD or on the water pump. nte. Has anyone ever had such a thing? Can it be that after a year the ZKD is flat again?? I really spin on the bike. I think I can give the holiday now. Hope for some useful tips from you. Greetings Aki