Category: Smart Forum

Hello, I am the Jan and quite new here in the forum. I tried to read out a little bit about my problem here, but somehow it doesn’t get any further. It’s my front axle. With the reinforced abrassing and slanting curb it curls up at the front left. The culprit was quickly found, it’s the left track rod head on the outside, which is strongly knocked out. On the right side it doesn’t curl up when the brake is strong. If I drive over a depression for example, where the right wheel is temporarily relieved. So falls briefly into the depression / unevenness. I had this checked at the Opel specialist workshop and they only find the broken track rod head on the left. The right track rod head would be fine and the cross handlebars would not be damaged either. The coupling rods are stable. The dampers have also held up to the inspection of the workshop. The rubbers, which can be left and right nd left in the engine compartment does not have a great distance, look perfect. Long speech, short meaning, here must be a defect, which it is important to find out. Either the workshop has not properly checked right or I don’t know any further. Does someone have an idea about what the related to my description might be? Would I be very pleased about a few tips. Maybe you can do certain tests yourself to find the cause.

Hello together, have a longer problem with my Omega B Z22XE year 2002. For a long time it stutters if I want to start it in cold condition or after a longer standing (1-2 hours). Then it tuckers like a tracktor for about 10 sec. with short and repeated gas giving it comes out of the exhaust with a bit of blue smoke and then runs as if it had been nothing. I changed spark plugs for safety (original GM). For 1 1/2 days it went then, nevertheless came again. The DIS module is also only 1 year old. I exclude this as an error. I also switched out and the following combination came out: 10-3-10-4 does someone have advice for me? LG

Hi Leutz, After filling in about 0.5 l of cooling water on 5tkm in the meantime, and I no longer come to take the bluish green deposits in the area of the heating box, I will probably not be able to push myself all too long to change it. As soon timing belt changes are in place, one could do this in a wash up, since then the cooling water has to be out anyway. However, I have read the instructions from a forum member here, since the och no longer soooooo endlessly eager to do this to me. However, the instruction was also for an Omega B, not for an A-model. What does it look like, is that exactly the same for the Omega A…eiden, or is it perhaps a little easier? Gruss, Pierre

I’m new here in the forum. I have an Omega B Built 99, 2.2l 16 V Y22XE automatic. I had it converted to autogas in January. After some time he started to stutter–> LMM in the morning, fix problems ! Then he always left me at the traffic light in the petrol and gas range. Throttle valve unit blown (previous cleaning had done nothing!) – now he doesn’t go out at the traffic light in the gasoline range anymore. On gas however already! The BC also shows automatic transmission check again and again. Now it almost goes out in the morning, if I don’t let it warm up to P for 1 min. Could that be the Temp. sensor ? The bigger problem is that it is very bad in the range of 80 – 110 km/h, partly not at all or only with total kickdown accelerated. Also it does not switch so correctly. Therefore my question: Is there an extra control unit for the automatic for my model ? If yes, where sits e s; who can read it out? Is it possible with the tech device? Can it only Opel, because the other, free workshops forbid it to dive deeper into the electronics? Oh yes: the cracker was leaking and pulled air–> plan and reattached with new, better bolts and seals. So it runs now when it is warm up to approx. 80 km/h very well, but after that it swallows lightly and the transmission works somehow differently. Also the top speed is now only noc h at approx. 170 km/h. Can all this have to do with the camshaft sensor? I BREAK THROUGH ASSISTANCE !!!!!

Hello guys, I had the shock absorbers changed back one was defective the oil already ran out, thereby was determined that the cuff of the drive shaft is defective. When pressing off the drive shaft the guys saw that the balls and so on are dust dry. So they have built me a new drive shaft after agreement with me. I paid 890 €. Yesterday I was at the TÜV got the badge said the examiner I should once turn my attention to the thresholdrs. So I was in a specialist workshop very nice good people by the way. So the master meant I should let them dry ice blasts afterwards granule blasting etc ….the fun costs 1200 € but 6 years warranty …Am I thinking if I have it done or the carrot drive until it falls apart …..What do you mean ???

Hello together! After fighting the rust spots in the wheel boxes and at the door edge (hopefully successful and to some extent permanent), I wanted to get to the right back door today. Then the rust laughs at me under the window seal (i.e. outside). 🙁 Etzold writes lapidar “..pull up”. Thinking – I almost pulled my fingers sore! In the back, in the area of the fixed window part the seal was also relatively easy to pull out, a But from this strut and even further forward, the thing doesn’t move any mm – rather the rubber would tear off. Can it be that you can’t get them out without any damage? I think with a pliers the beast would get along already – but I wanted to use the part as much as possible. Does it perhaps help to soak the seal with silicone oil? ..But then I probably can’t grasp it anymore with my fingers. Do you have tips for me? ..If I don’t do anything, the sheet metal will soon be through 🙁 The attached picture shows a rather weakly infested spot. Thank you in advance! Greetings, Rainer

Hi for now, as you can see at my SIG, I almost only beat myself in the Ford Escort Forum before. Since my Essi has now stretched the hooves (cylinder head seal flat, engine block torn, WaPu over) and a repair is too expensive for me, I think about buying after me an Omega B. I already read the purchase advice from the Senatorman here, and my choice has fallen on the 2.0 with 115 or 136 HP. What can such a car cost, what exactly do I have to do with the Moto r pay attention, how much km does the machine make??? And what do I have to pay attention to in general with the car. Can one make VIEL itself? How expensive are the spare parts? Many questions, right? But hope for your help. My father at that time had an Omega A with the 1.8 engine, the car Opel bought again at that time, because at 480tKm the clutch had to be replaced for the first time. So think that the cars are quite fun to run, right? That’s why my choice now also falls on Opel, because the Mondeo I don’t like the look. Ask for fast and competent help. PS.: I’ve already used the search function

First happy Easter, Hello, I’m new here and would like to ask you for your opinion! I’ve had a Opel Omega B Kombi, Built: 1996, 2.0 l 16V, 136hp, 250000km. I could get it for 400 euros! He has a few defects, milky headlights, hand brake is not possible, exhaust has a hole, light width adjustment is not possible, rear light is defective, sliding roof licks, 1 month TÜV! New all-weather tires, new tooth cord, coolant new. Now my question, it’s worth it If yes, how much money do I have to spend to repair the defects and to make the one by the TÜV? Otherwise I am really free, super lot of space, great chassis, low consumption and it drives like a living room.g. Thank you so much greeting from Ammerland

Moin moin together, I or my wife bought a third brake light last night (see photo). Now I checked here in the search function because of an installation instruction, but found nothing. Now I wanted to ask if someone can give me such a instruction, possibly with photos ? What I found in the search function is that it is clamped on the left brake light and you have to pay attention to that in the third brake light 5W incandescent lamps are inside, because of the check Controll. I’m more interested in how I build it on the tailgate. Do I need a matching cover or something?

Hello everyone, I have an MV6 bauj. 97. My Omega doesn’t want to switch in D anymore, but manually the gears 1 to 3 can be switched clean. I already changed gear oil, also partly the brake belts after, but because I had no Nm torque wrench, the whole was not very accurate. The problems have already become better than before, that means that he manually switches clean again, but just on D he always stays in the 3 gears. Had him at Opel on the tester, he said that a Rel Ais is defective from transmission and the brake belts have something. But more precisely, I still did not get out. I don’t know which relay is for what I could change this. It also does not bring a read or hardly, although one hears from the engine that he wants, but cannot. In addition, it comes to the converter, where it is flanged on the engine, gear oil loses. I have to say that hardly any transmission oil was available when I got the Autoi the week and so What the oil looked like, even at 203,000 km was not changed big-artic yet. However, when I drove home I had to get the car suddenly for about 20 km full power, i.e.: everything went in D position; local gears from starting up to the 4 the kick down and also the S button went, which is not the case anymore. That was only the one time for the about 20 km. Can someone help me further??? Am really despairing so slow, because I don’t know any more advice. I could not change the Olfilter, didn’t get any more on the WE, also I could only take off the big tub, but not the small one, because I didn’t get any more gasket on the WE. I want to do the whole thing again on Tuesday, so if all things are complete again. But what mistakes can still be made, or can someone else help me with tips or so, who knows about it??? Thank you already in advance… L G Doro