Category: Smart Forum

Moin, Moin, 3 weeks ago I had the timing belt changed at the MV6 Caravan Bj. 09/97 at the FOH. At the same time a TÜV should be made, because this month is due. At the pickup I was told that he did not get a TÜV, because a track rod head is defective at the front. Furthermore, one would have accidentally registered the lack of registration of the springs also as a defect, since the TÜV examiner has only seen the folder with all the reports afterwards. So I am this Woch e, with a new track rod head, again to the investigation. First one started to search for the documents for the springs, which unfortunately have not been found and thus the investigation was interrupted, with the hint, I should sometimes research what feathers are in it and get me the corresponding documents. I complained, that they told me that the lack of “spring entry” only accidentally appeared on the TÜV report, but this has nothing Then I wrote to the previous owner and asked if he still has any documents or information here. He has now informed me that the Omega Caravan is a sport version and the springs are installed as standard. Ha! He would have had the same problems with his first TÜV. I should go to the FOH, which can certify that this is the case! Ha-Ha! Now to my questions: What can I recognize? Where can I find information about what the sports version contains What can I give my FOH to the hand so that he can see the same with the standard installed?!;-) The chassis number is W0L0VBP35W1075417 I’m already looking forward to your answers. Ulli

Hello together, Since the purchase of my big one I have the problem that it pulls to the right. Track rods are already new inside, couplers and still something at the VA was renewed when I bought the car. The track has now been set for the 3rd time in a year. The values are always set exactly to 0, so in the green area. After the measured it is always almost gone and after a. 2000-2500km it comes back slowly. Somehow everything seems to adjust itself. A The first time it was made on guarantee, the second time at the tyre dealer of my trust and now for the third time at the FOH. But now I am at the end. It starts to get really annoying slowly. Above all, it becomes so strong again that he could drive alone in the circle if you let go of the steering wheel…. Does anyone have any idea what that could be? The FOH could not tell me anything more about it. Had that looked at but it meant it was all Ok, d a the most important thing is new, which could be responsible for it… I’ve heard of several omidrivers who have the same problem, but not as much as I seem to have… help… thank you very much… greetings

Servus guys, sometimes something else. I’m looking for a cheap second car just for the work. He should cost max. 600 euros (with tuv). After equestrian rust mills (Ford, Opel, Mazda and Peugeot) I came across a Fiat Tipo. The car has Tüv until 2012/08 and is sooooooooo times with pinched eyes quite ok. I looked at it and noticed a few small defects. Oil sensor (should be the oil pressure sensor) is leaking, hardly the engine was dripping out cheerfully. (Ebay 12 ,- Eur) Possibly valve cover seal leaks, it is in the upper area a little damp and engine block well siffic but not fresh oily. Exhaust has a hole in the rear silencer and should be welded. Here the Link Fiat Tipo Mobile had an expert at the side, he meant the car was from the basic substance and I should take a little action and take. What do you think? I already posted in the Fiat forum but there is hardly any answer

Hello, I’m new here and would need some help…. First of all to the car, is an Omega B Caravan 2.0 16v 100KW bj 94 petrol. And yes SUFU has found a lot and still can’t get any further! To the problem: Since two days the Opel starts either normal or not at all?! Heist, if I’m lucky he starts normal and I can also drive normally, No problems or error messages. Yesterday to the shopping turned off and (after 15min) nothing more (starter turns, but not even the smallest stutter n), then let go and after about 500m he came again running and then starts again normal…. In the evening again a round without problems! I noticed then yesterday that he only muks when I start right away (not wait until the lamps go out) is however not clear to me why this should be bad with the petrol guy?! So yesterday worked the whole day without problems without problems… This morning in “Eile” of course too fast = dead = drag. Then pay extra attention and still after the 3 start again dead… Let’s mention that he ignites briefly at the start (only at the first attempt) on 2-3 pötten short run (5-10seconds) before he lies down then, then no more rain until towing (partly 500m-2km!) Have looked here and tried to work already before, I have the two relays (fuel pump and Einspitza. believe k43-44 they were called) changed times and also at the start bridged (each the wide) also with it no life sign… Towing… Fuel pump is strangely never to be heard, but go from the point of view, otherwise it would also cause problems after towing?! Everything else but also…. I don’t understand… Maybe someone here has had something similar? Whether it is relevant, I don’t know, but I parked the good last week with almost empty tank (shown still 130km left) on a mountain and when I wanted to leave again after an hour, I couldn’t meh r started (came only 2-3 times on 2-3 pötten then rest) had to drag him, then he ran again without any problems! Was there the first time that showed the error! Ohso, answers please not too technical, I am laie 😉 Mfg OSKAR

Hello community, I have a problem. I offered my Omega for sale at Ebay because I had an accident at the beginning of the year. I listed all the defects I know and also wrote in that I sell him as an accident car / spare part donor. Now I get two messages from the highest bidder. I should call all defective ones. Since I am not a mechanic I can only write what I know. Therefore also sell as an accident car etc. Answer from him was then there s I should call again all defective ones he buys the car in any case. And then turns out still defective or defects I did not mention he wants to sue me for damages. Do not know now how I should behave after all written without warranty / guarantee because it is a accident car. Did not answer him yet. Should I lock him and/or report ebay? Greeting Zony

Hello guys, I’m just changing the valve cover seal on 2 Ltr 16 V. But I have the problem now that this (damn) lid does not detach itself from the cylinder head Did I forget anything to rob? – The 10 small Inbuss screws are out. – The hoses (3 pcs) I have removed. – The timing belt covering I solved upper area and the wiring including channel pushed up. – all 4 candle connectors are out too. I don’t want to use brute force n, since only light metal… With the previous cars where I made this kind of reperature the lid was immediately loose… Does anyone else have a tip that I can use? Thanks and greetings, Matze

Hello dear Omega fans.I’m addressing you today with a request. The following problem.My water cooler has a little tension crack in the plastic and is slightly leaking. So new cooler ordered and what does not fit wrong! Cooler reclaimed new ordered does not fit again. My screwdriver hammered you order that and what comes, does not fit again. To the problem.Since my Ommi has an AT, he also has an oil cooler, which however BEFORE the water cooler is screwed. Problem.All 3 coolers delivered so far do not have the 4 mounting holes that I need to screw the oil to the water cooler. Yesterday I then phoned Kurt for 1 hour and we were able to clarify it so far that we now know that I am sent one of the x20xev with INTEGRED oil cooler all the time. My plan is now to use the also and attach the two pipes to the cooler and moth my seperate oil cooler. Since I now 3 times the fa I think that Opel might have fitted it. And here I come with my request to you. So if you have a Facer with 2.2 and AT please look at which cooler you have integrated or extra. Hang on a few more pictures.

Can someone tell me how elaborate (work effort) it is to insert a lock into the rear axle differential. Is it an automatic lock or is it electrically switched on (my already having seen a TC switch with a separate lock button). If the latter is the case, are the cables already lying? Thanks already for the answers.