Category: Smart Forum

My Omega BII Caravan 2.0 DTI Bj.2000 100PS and 179Tkm on the clock, which is really difficult at the moment. The problem of the underpressure lines is well known and there is always something with you as OMI drivers. But for some time now, he only wants to reach the 160 km/h with difficulty. In doing so, all filters have been renewed and light candles have also been used. Maybe someone knows advice and can give you a tip. I thank you already. Now the manor

For some time now my engine “tikkerte” always.Bin then in the workshop.Wold to go straight to the place the oil control light went on, but immediately again out. Oil level looked, no oil on the trackstick . Was then immediately filled up and afterwards also tikkern was gone.Logic, now I am smarter. But had no abnormalities with the temperature and the indicator light never flashed before. Did I now still expect an engine damage or am I again with a blue eye of it. I was now told that the engine can still give up the spirit in the next 2000 KM, only after that the danger would be over. I am so stupid and now really unsure if the engine can still fly around my ears. The tikkern is gone, it runs quite calmly and also nothing else I noticed. Has anyone had the problem already? And yesterday I also ran a deer in front of the car, will still wacky thanks and love greetings from the sheep

Hi, with my Omega B 2.5 DTI with 5-speed manual transmission I had to make today at the mileage of 252,000 km on the highway the statement that the 5th gear jumps out suddenly when accelerating (shift lever jumps into the middle position). At the first time you still think that you have not inserted the gear correctly (unlikely, but at least possible), but if it happens then suddenly with every acceleration, surely there must be a technical problem. – 4 are completely normal when accelerating. Did any of you ever have this problem and can say something about the possible causes? I’m going to tap on a problem with the switchbar…

So I have an Omega B Caravan 2.5 DTI built in 2002 and wanted to get me the EVO Star rims in the size 8.5Jx20″ with ET35, after a long search I found some posts where inside it fits and also many the wrote that it does not fit, what can you believe now ?? So with a tire dimension of 235 30 R20″ and the 8.5Jx20″ rims there should actually be no problems or yet ? I wanted to lower the Omega now 30/30 with Eibach springs and front Bilstein B6 shock absorber pure I read in an article that you can set the sensor differently with Opel, what only interests me fits the press-in depth of the rims ? Not that afterwards the tires or the rim on the spring leg grinds and fits the distance to the spring plate still ? Well I would be very grateful if someone knows and-or could teach me something

Hello, this is really cheap and will probably make for some smiles. I had planned today to exchange the winter shoes (steel) for the summer flaps. However, I failed. At the front left the wheel cannot be removed. Rims + axles are the same as in the past 2 years. I also know the phenomenon of rusted rims. Have already experienced this with several vehicles. With some persuasion art it was always possible. So far the following versuc ht: – Rostlöser 3/4 Dose – also comes out nicely between disc and rim, just as on the scar – from the inside with force on the tire to the outside Conclusion: nothing. Everything moves, but not the rim… Several people had already tried it today – everyone wanted to try it and then also failed. At the corresponding effort of force vs. rust it did not seem to matter. Must say that the rims are only extremely close. I guess that the rim itself could have “lightly” changed. The game of hissing scar and rim is perhaps < 0.5 mm. Therefore, the game with the wire brush is always the same. Does anyone still have a tip? PS: the tire service also relies on great power. However, this did not survive the axle adjustment at my Toyota at the time. Greetings to Christian

Hello Omi-Gemeinde, my wife was yesterday with the Omi to the AU and HU at the TÜV. The badge for the AU was without problems because all values were correct, but with the HU it looked not so good. The examiner found the following defects: 1: Ablendlicht setting too low 2: Battery: coverage missing 3: drive: oil loss 4: brake discs front corrosion formation Now I have some questions and hope that she can answer me: A) What the hell is a cover for the battery? Ic b) What does the TÜV mean with rust formation on the brake disc? The surfaces on which the blocks rub are mirror-blank and the outer wreath I know only with rust base. C) The omi loses now for a few days strongly oil. If the engine is okay, as soon as my wife starts the omi throws out the oil. It can be clearly seen that it is by the lower screw (driver side) of the oil tank. Around this screw everything is dry, only d he screw itself is wet. (Of course, the screw is properly tightened!) For me, this looks like the oil is running along the inside of the transmission bell, but I didn’t know until today that it has to go there at all. Who knows the problem???? I am grateful for every answer, because I want to get this over with quickly.

Hi guys, why is the omme on the driver’s side heavier than on the passenger’s side???? short to the explanation how I noticed that… I drove over the train on Friday. On the A2 my temperature indicator has climbed promptly to 100 degrees. To the right and see there is no fan running but it may not have been wind, but no matter fan is pushed to the highest level and finished thermostat controlled goes up. Continued driving and again reached 100 degrees. 36 degrees outside Tem.) and promptly 97 degrees. Couldn’t drive with heating because of my little son and our dog. So climate on and again 100 degrees. There’s actually only one cause left WASSERPUMPE. Oh man. Well in Berlin on the Frankfurter was called to me the too stupid with the omme, yellow angel. Hardly at the hacking he hangs on the left side deeper than right comical look. WHY??

Attention!!! I don’t know here is the market place but ! This week my old Ommi goes to the scraper He is registered on Euro4 Available is 4* Alus , engine is disassembled due to the engine damage And everything else is still inside out seats and door boards !!! Who needs to report quickly otherwise everything goes to the scraper because I have no place to slaughter! Ps: Manual climate he also has ! Greetings

night together … … yesterday with a couple of buddies a little too much drunk, became overcrowded and was the opinion that I was the scrap golf 5 gti, from one of the buddies loosely wake up. now we have arranged for the next weekend, acceleration race. both automatic, he 2.0 turbo and my one 2.5 v6. though I don’t think I’m the pack, but I want to see how big the difference is. and now my question: I’m used to the switch, to the ampel, played with the gas and ku from the post I can turn the speed up to N and then pull D in ? or do I do the gearbox in the a…….sch.

Hello world, it’s time again, my omme is ticking around again (was also time after 1 week ) As soon as the omme is standing a little longer (so 1-2 days) it starts off really badly and the MKL lights up briefly.Then a discreet “knall” comes and everything starts from the front,so 2-3 times until it runs. If I press “S”-button at the gearbox and sometimes give really full throttle then fix it completely burned and man hears the banging again when switching. The sound comes from the area of the cat ́s. What can that be?MKL is out and otherwise he drives normally. Oh, how do I set the clock in the MID? Thank you and greetings