Category: Smart Forum

Hello dear people! First of all, I know that it is not necessarily legal what I do but I would like to leave the jz out of it – it’s all about the subject matter! So as already stated in the title I have on my Omega A 2.0 L 8 V a self-welded duplex exhaust system on it. The basis were the original end pot, which was cut open, cleaned out and welded again. In addition, the pipe between the end pot and end tube was cut open, and a second pipe mi t same diameter welded up that goes past the tank to the right and then comes out to the right next to the tow hook. As tailpieces was made quasi “Forstinger Tuning”, pure to the optics which should then contribute to the sound nothing. I think Forstinger also exists with you in Germany or? So my question, contrary to all expectations, you hear almost nothing from the exhaust, he has a nice, discreet gushing from the outside, but that was unfortunately also already. Duplex has welded, has used the same principle on its Mitsubishi Colt, a 1.6 L 16 V. And if he goes away from home, I hear him come already (about 5 km or more). What does that matter? With the 2 L of the Omega you have to hear something or? Or is it just because the Colt is a 16 V, or that it is shorter by a corner? Besides, what about the conversion of the Omega from 8 V (116 hp) to 16 V (150 hp)? ‘n more familiar has all sorts of things at home, and also the need for He meant to rebuild his head is not a problem he has 2 times at home, and also MSTG of 16 V he has enough, only the only thing he doesn’t know, is whether the motor wire harness of 8 V and 16 V fit together? What he offered me to create a little bit of sound was to cut out the middle pot (which is completely rusty anyway) and weld in a kind of medium pot of nem Honda Civic. Only this medium pot seems to be not a normal medium. opf, but consists of several chambers that compress the exhaust gases, and then push them out with more pressure. At least he explained that to me. What do you think about it? What would be the better alternative? Thanks for the answers Greetings Marek

First of all a hello to all and a big praise to this forum. I have been reading here for a long time and have already found one or other tip. But now it seems that I have to post a problem. The pump named in the title does not work. It is the pump under the coolant tank. We got it, because I get only lukewarm air in the stand gas into the vehicle. As soon as you increase the speed, (be it only to 1000 rpm) the system heats with v after an excursion into the electronics of the Omega and various tested relays we discovered this pump at some point and found that it does not get any power. If you switch it directly, humming it like a bee. We then tried everything as described in various forums, but there is never a signal at the pump. Then we arrived at the point where we don’t know any more. Based on current flow plans we found out that d he pump is directly controlled by the climate control. Therefore the question: Why does the climate control not switch the pump ?

Hello Opelfans, I noticed on the WE on the way back from Germany at the last refuelling, that the engine was running in a restless way, but nothing further thought about it, because when accelerating everything was normal. The weather was nice… (dark and heavy rain) so that I only saw at a traffic light just before home that comes out of the exhaust of strong, white smoke. So immediately on the right, the temperature indicator climbed into the red area, then directly out of the engine. As an alternative, I thought of having a new, used engine installed, the price would be the same as the ZKD change. My question now to the specialists: How high is the probability that the head has changed? There were 70Km highways from the tank to the traffic light on which the temperature indicator was quite normal. And, if I let the engine change, I run the danger that the bends would cause me Is it supposed to be an omega disease? Questions about questions, but I would like to drive my beloved omi even further, just not at any price. LG from Austria from the Uwe

A bought a car for 1000 euro from B Privat 4 days ago.A noticed on the same day that the car loses coolant.A Was after 4 days in 2 workshops the A made a cost estimate of 700 euro for the reperature or exchange of the heaterCooler is the defect.A believes the Privt salesman B hit him over the ear because B had driven the car himself only 2 weeks after he had bought it from a dealer.A believes the Käu A has now asked the private seller B to take the car back or to take over the repair costs, B does not want to do this.B says he did not know anything about the damage.In the purchase contract it says (Committee of Guarantees”>Guarantee”).This committee does not apply to claims for damages arising from liability for material defects which are based on intentional or grossly negligent violation of obligations of the seller.)Has A a c Is it necessary to give the dealer the B 1 year guarantee from which the car was bought from the B 4 weeks ago?Is the warranty of the dealer from B to A the third one?Or does A now remain on the harm as the last stupid sitting alone? I would be very happy about an answer. MfG Omega

Hello It’s about an Omega 2.0 l – 16V – BJ.98 I bought this 2.5 years ago from a dealer in Bavaria and I got totally fucked up what turned out later. Among other things, you pay attention to everything when buying, but you don’t think to fold the bench. It only struck me after 4 months when I wanted to fold the bench. It only went down to half, because it was totally bent and spoiled, although so nothing turned out. How this could happen is a mystery to me, angeblic h also no accident. Complaints did not help me, it was not a new car, and it was an agency sale without guarantee. Now a question to you: If such a back seat for me that would be great, should be affordable, the car had cost me a lot of money and nerves the last time. Bench for Omega Caravan 2.0 l – 16 V, Built 98, Kopstützen can be folded, 3 point belt in the middle, color black, 2 divided. I hope I have more luck here in the forum. Thanks. MFG Bullysamler

Hello, I got an OBD2 plug and the demo-SW used by Kurt. Which is not possible – with USB via an RS232 adapter. So – other laptop with serial interface, SW installed and already running the thing, more or less. We tried it on the Y22XE and on the Y25DT and got quite well with it. Now my questions to Kurt: Is there somewhere a table with target values – I tried the search, but did not find it. OBD2 plugs for VAG driving The OBD interface is actually standardized – or does Opel go its own way. If the USB version is working, the newer OP-COM SW verse 080827 should also run, which is looking for a USB interface (including drivers) in the test. LG robert

hello to each other. I’m looking for repa-plates for a Senator B. especially for end-tips or sleeper sets (wanted to make them complete if immediately) as well as everything else there is. the frame carriers are in an absolutely new condition (thanks to the previous owner) I don’t need anything for luck. what I need are swollen as I said and if it’s cheap the wheel run in the door edge (outside wheel run I build myself) I have looked up to now at PS-auto parts, Leidinger, ATP, Pro-Parts and of course Ebay, but there you get only scrap brakes and coupling rods indicated. with leidinger or PS-car parts stand at Schweeller Omega A, fit these to 95%? gruss, patrick. PS: are there door approaches for welding in? (bottom edges, forn corsa there is e.g.)

Hello together, when I was hanging in the engine room yesterday, I noticed that it is not too close to my valve cover seal. Would they like to change now. Are there any kiffs and tricks that I need to know? Gruss Micka

Hello I would be happy about Spurrillen insensitive summer tire recommendations in 225/55-R16. Would someone have experiences for an Omeg-B-combi-front which he can communicate? At the moment I was pleased with the Hankook Ventus Prime K105. Does someone drive a lot in the above-mentioned size on the Omi? I would also be interested if one can exclude from the different tire profiles whether the tires Spurrillen is sensitive on the Omeg? I have no idea how to I just picked out a few keywords from the tire descriptions. -Running directional tyre profile -V-shaped profile -Rille profile -Asymmetrical pattern -Depth longitudinal grooves Alias

Hello, one thing in advance: yesterday I used the search all day, but unfortunately I am as smart as before. That’s why I created a new thread out of my despair, because I still can’t narrow down what my Omega (2.0, 16V, 100kw, BJ 1995, X20XEV) could have. Yesterday’s research day here in the forum led me to the following possible causes. – Petrol pump – Ignition cable – Ignition plug – Ignition coil – NWS – KWS – Drosselkklappe But let’s get to the concrete problem: I The car ran perfectly, except some start problems in the cold months. Then at the beginning of March 2009 there were first problems with the gas giving. At full throttle, e.g. during the overtaking, there was only a jerking down then the performance fell. From then on followed days, on which the Omi had nothing and ran perfectly, and then there were days, on which the car suddenly could not even bring more than 2000 or 3000 revolutions power, in idle everything I called the ADAC 4 times! 1. ADAC visit – suggestion to change LMM. LMM changed, but now the car didn’t start. 2. ADAC visit – error code read out. Nothing found. Then the fuses checked. Those of the gasoline pump replaced. Car jumped again. The next but no more 3. ADAC visit – error code read out – gasoline pump relays replaced. Car jumped again, but to the surprise it was like before the replacement of all parts. 4. ADAC visit – car MKL lights up – read out error code, yet nothing found – car towed with the recommendation to replace the throttle flap. 5. car in workshop, read out error code, found nothing. car ran faultlessly again. contacts sprayed on and that was it. In addition, the recommendation to replace the NWS, because the insulation shows a slight crack On last Saturday I picked up the car from the workshop, it ran faultlessly. On Sunday it jumped sc hon again bad and the jerking was back again – even in idle mode nothing went more than 2000 revolutions. Yesterday, however, it started immediately and it ran again impeccable. I am really desperate. Does anyone have an idea? The strangest thing is that you can already make out at the start whether it is going well or not. Thank you in advance for the help Markus