Category: Smart Forum

Moin. I looked at Caravan A today, was idiosyncratic very surprised how he looks like, the only thing that was noticeable in the first moment, that he was already spat at the rear right door at the lower back corner and that had burst off, then I wanted to close it up, but also went only to the driver’s side, well tried it is, was not so other battery fetched and she as it will be light. then at the start everything was top, but then I fell like scuff from the eyes, wase r in the footroom, looking at the driver side, the same thing also on both sides, where does that come from??? I looked, push down the drains, look great can’t be, then thought, well looked around bitsle, found nothing only then I thought first of all ventilation and there had cihnen river in the car, the water came out on the left and right at the foot vent, then looked for cool water, dry like anything else of the tank. So I guess the heat exchanger is rusted through. dan n looking further, I would now change all the disks dun coverings, then the doors opened and see the usual rusting place, but that was not so much rust. Water pump and timing belts are new. is nen c20ne in it and ran 178tkm, switching what would you do, buy a car and get ready or leave your body to be???? gruß

Take a look at this! Laugh at me quietly or not. Two days ago I finally bought a senator (was easy to recognize due to my many postings). After a closer look at the vehicle and the documents I had doubts about their authenticity and a call to the TÜV confirmed my guess. After I faxed the report I was told that the report is completely fake! You really don’t believe it! *headshake* I immediately went to the dealer And obviously they were surprised and took the car back immediately and I got my money back. But no matter who that was, it’s not a maximum of arrogance!? I write this in here so that all those who don’t bring their treasures over the TÜv themselves can check their documents for authenticity. Who knows, with what kind of sky tax some of us are on the way without knowing it. Oh, my first doubt came up when I heard from the supposedly geshu I’m sorry, but you can’t imagine how bad I am!!! Write your experiences here but also write some comforting words. Up here on the coast, it’s almost impossible to find a Senator B…… 🙁 Greeting Marko P.S. Search Senator B, 177 HP, well maintained and it’s also welcome to Län You have to keep your (galgae) humor, otherwise nothing can be done anymore!!!

The hurdle is done. They are also called TÜV. Before the TÜV I changed the timing belt and adjusted the hand brake. In addition, I cleaned the cooler from inside and outside. (That came down and out of a souper) But the tuvver was a full dumpling. He had to bend and break something. First he got on my rims, because I put the aluminiums of the Omega A on it for the winter tires. (Was also installed on the Senni). He meant I needed an ABE. When he was then called TÜV. but found out that they fit, he was suddenly of the opinion that the 195 tyres should not be driven on the 7×15 rim. But that was also a mistake. (Good that I was there) Then he had found that my rear axle rubbers were knocked out. But fortunately I could convince him also here of the opposite with a Montierlebel. Well, finally he wrote down the hardy disks. They have light (and they are really light) cracks. Well we If he can sleep quietly now, I give him this satisfaction. It’s only a small lack. The main thing is, I have TÜV, but I still don’t make the hardy discs! SO!! They are only made when they are really knocked out.

Good day, through Googlei I have come to this site and many of the illusions I had before have already been taken away from me. Actually, I am looking for a long-distance car for about 5200km in the month, should be a diesel, inconspicuous and reliable. Inconspicuous I should write large letters. I am looking for the car for my girlfriend who has to drive twice in the week about 650km. Our price range is about 600€. What makes the search not easy. n for the money is no problem.. but I think that the small car is quickly at the end when it was beaten over the track for a few months. So I came across the Opel with BMW engine via a BMW. Like the BMW also the Omega should be a well running long-distance car. Google then showed me that there are quite Omega ́s with 500,000km. So far so good, when I arrived here and was thrown at with quite simple (no screwdriver) it was m and I thought that I had to get “personal” advice (this thread). have read a lot about the TD and TDI variants and about the susceptibility of the two. In short: I need a car in the price range where not much has to be screwed. I can still get to change a lamp, but with a transmission it will be difficult to find out about it. Would an Omega with 150,000km, 2000er bj, automatic, be suitable for our long distances Are we now more likely to be discouraged or advised, since we have no options to screw (know, place, time)?

Hello guys, have a question. Would like to add new rims to my Omega B BJ.2000 in 8.5 J x 19 “. At the moment I have the original 17 ” from Opel on it in 5 star optics. Now there are some rims in the room. My favorite would be the MAM Nuvo black polished in the dimension 8.5 J x 19. Now I don’t know which ET I have to consider. The current rims have the size 7.5 J x 17 ET39 with 235/45 ZR 17. Can you give me any help??? Thank me in advance for eur e Effort. Greetings AKI

Hello everybody! Our Omega has always used some water for several years (0.5 l/10,000 km). But now I have to refill half a litre of water every week (after about 300 km). The pressure of the cooler has not shown any fault. There is also no liquid leak under the car or anywhere else to see. There is no oil film visible on the cooling water and no bubbles when the engine is running. Where can the cooling water loss have its cause? Does anyone have an idea? and above all – can you go on like this? Does a means “cooler-proof” or similar help, or should you dare to do so? Many greetings omegafan 7

Hello Sportstfeunde, I have a problem with my Ommi! Every now and then he doesn’t want to drive on petrol. Then he starts normal, jumps normally to gas and if I want to switch it off and start again, then he doesn’t jump on petrol anymore. Then I can only start with gas, so he runs well. When I switch to petrol, he goes out again. It seems to me that something doesn’t agree with the fuel supply. Pump and pump relays I switched, did not bring anything. Gib The MKL doesn’t glow. The purple relay at the top left is for the fuel pump, isn’t it? I’m grateful for every tip!

Hello Have a big problem. Last night I turned off my Omega completely normal without any problems. This morning I wanted to go again and it did not start any more. When I wanted to read out the error code I noticed that the bulb was defective. I then changed it, and read out. Fc 1 19 speed sensor false signal Fc2 135 engine malfunction warning light voltage too low Fc3 144 immobilizer No signal Fc4 145 immobilizer false signal Fc 135 I think you can close because I changed the lamp. 144 & 145 took the contact key with the transponder, but it doesn’t work either, don’t know if it was already a defect. How can you check the number sensor, and is the sensor of the KWS? Need penetrating help. MfG Majo

Hello Omi municipality!!! Maybe you can help me further??? I would like to exchange the original antenna (standart AM/FM-GSM) for an AM/FM-GPS antenna. Today I ran and dismantled the panel and looked for the strippings as they are actually usual, but I found only from the antenna two lines which are equipped with screw couplings (FME) and the power connection is completely missing. On the attached photo my antenna is only that I have no GSM connection because i The problem now is that I can’t get the two strippers out far enough and then they disappear in the sheet metal. Do you know where the lead continues ????? If I make it tomorrow I will take photos of the original antenna. I am grateful for every answer!!!!! Vehicle Omega B 2.2 Facelift Built 2001

Hello! The following problem: Need another vehicle: space for 2 adults and three children. In addition, I travel 1-2 times a week in a carpool to work 120km and 120km. 90% highway So about 30,000km should come around there every year. My Budged is thus at max. 6000 Euro. My consideration is to buy an MV6 caravan and then have it converted to gas. 2500 Euro for the conversion and 3500 Euro for the car. Do you prefer to choose a VFL or facelift? The facelifters cost a little more, besides, my wife likes the inside of the VFL better. I definitely want the X30XE because of the cheaper parts and exchange motors (Y32SE too expensive and rare) The X25XE is the cheapest, but very difficult to get with Navi, Tempomat, seat heating and leather. Or a caravan 2.5 DTI, but you have to equip it again with a particle filter. And they only go at 6000 Euro. Let’s go. Alternative: Vectra C Caravan Cheap is the 3.0CDTI to get, but in maintenance too expensive and also without particulate filters (the low costs) The 1.9CDTI costs from 7000 euros. I heard the diesel price should be higher and rise. Perhaps even as high as gasoline car gas is quite cheap until 2018. Which car would you recommend to me? Thanks and greeting… …Frank