Hello Opel fans, I’ve been driving Opel-Omega-Caravan since 1988 and drove 50 to 70,000 km a year, but I haven’t experienced such mistakes yet. I used to change the car every 2 to 4 years and drove max. 250,000 with an Omega, but now my current “Opel- Omega-Caravan 3.0” – built in March 2000. For a few days, the control lamps “ABS” + “TC” light up, but go out again and again, then again, a nice game. The game has only two significant disadvantages – k a display of the speed and thus the navigator out of function. The speedometer indicator is not the worst problem yet, because there is still a tachometer, but the failure of the navigator is damn annoying. The workshop of Opel Dello is also quite perplexed and have been looking for several hours, but everything only conjectures. Presently claim “ABS control unit” defective, material costs 1.185,95 EUR + assembly approx. 1,500 EUR. My guess that it is only a wheel sensor, becomes two But no one can find any evidence of the error, i.e. helplessness with the screwdrivers, which all have very little idea of Electronik. Now I have read several articles that this error hardly occurs, which partly resolves itself and since it is really only a sensor, but by the ignorance of the screwdrivers the errors cannot be determined correctly. Since someone can gain experience, someone knows a real helper etc., because before I 1500 I would like to try a lot more to throw out the window. mfg Karlheinz Gutter mail “[email protected]”
Category: Smart Forum
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Calli tuning
Hi guys! Have a little question about doing the calli. I drive an 8V unfortunately automatic machine, which slowly gets too boring for me, I heard that, by a chip tuning some Ps are to get out, is that for an 8v at all profitable if yes I would be glad to give an indication of the increase in performance, I don’t want a street fighting car with white the cuckoo how many PS. I would be satisfied if I brought the calli to 150Ps. If there was another or simpler variant, I would also like to use it. every answer is a great help to me, thank you! MFG
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HELP!! My Omi stutters during the ride!!! Why???
When I went home from night duty this morning, my omi started to stutter with one time. It worked out so that without any previous signs he no longer accepted gas and wanted to go out. By shutting down or also repeatedly pressing the gas pedal everything became normal again. This problem occurred a few times. But always only sporadic. So from the feeling I think that he gets no more gas or any more The MKL does not work. Everything is normal except for these dropouts. I urgently need advice on what it might be. I have to work with it every day and am instructed on my little one. I thank you already once in advance for a quick help. Greetings Lapi281
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Airbag control lamp
Hello people , the following problem: Have an Opel Omega B 2l 16v Bj 1999 The predecessor of my car had a small accident on the passenger side. Had bought me a new door to install the of course had to rebuild the whole carb tree from the door (crash sensor) with it. Where I was then finished I started the engine and of course now lights up the airbag lamp. Was this morning at a workshop that told me you can not delete the error there exists a stoe the driver’s door impact sensor so the diagnosis of the master. What now?? Karbel are all okay what can this be just urgent to the Tüv so the Tüv doesn’t take it off!!!Please for help in advance already many thanks to Mfg
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Should I buy??? Omi FL Bj2002
Moin moin Hab found an omega FL 3.2 executive BJ 2002, I am interested in the car ABER has run replacement engine 102000km, body 178000km!! almost full equipment….Colour Nocturno blue Z20H. At the ATM all seals and timing belts have been changed(2 years ago!!) 3.hand the jetz is sold a car mechanic has done everything himself, he said…! price here seems quite cheap to be 3990€ on the phone he said pain limit is 3000€! I am in doubt at once 900€ who iger?!? has motor still problem or something?? what do you want me to buy or finger off!?? MFG Reflection
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Help, my diesel won’t get warm!!
Hello, I’ve been driving Opel again for a few months, an Astra 2.0 DI. Was 2 years of service founded unfaithful, a Golf 4 TDI with 90hp. I’m basically more satisfied now, only that the Astra needs instead of the 6 liters of golf nevertheless rather 7 liters. Since the temperatures are now 0 degrees, however, the engine will not be warm any more. I drive for my company 6 times a day 11 kilometers over land, and during the 9 to 11-minute rides the cooling temperature indicator does not jerk. The consumption is now also to 8 liters high although I drive neither highway or city, but only highway with 100km/h in 5th gear. Opel says everything normal. I say the spins, what I drive diesel if I need with 82 hp at 65km still 8 liters a day! The golf used to be also at -15 degrees after 6-7 km warm and did not consume more than 0.3 extra fuel just because outside are 0 degrees. Have changed thermostat -> no difference. 7000 km ago a new LLM came in. I am grateful for every info! Bo
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dBila’s single choke for cadet 2.0 16V
Help – who can send me an dBilas-certificate by email or fax?? For my cadet E 2,0 16V I bought a single dBilas-drump. Since I needed the plant and bought it privately, dBilas leaves me stubbornly in the rain and does not give me an expert report. Their suggestion and only acceptance would be the registration in my own house. My note, which I have to pay 600Km for it, did not change anything about their proposal!! That I will never get anything from dBilas again we rde, is probably explained by this. So I advise everyone, but still need an expert report. Who can help me? Greetings Uwe
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All error codes for (almost) all OPEL! A must!
Here is the current error code table for all Opel models : Error code & cause 10 Code variant not programmed 12 Diagnosis start 13 Lambda probe – no voltage change 14 Coolant temperature sensor – voltage too low 15 Coolant temperature sensor – voltage too high 16 Tap sensor 1 – no voltage change 17 Tap sensor 2 – no voltage change 18 Tap control unit – no signal 19 Speed sensor – wrong signal 21 throttle valve potentiometer – voltage too high 22 throttle flap en-potentiometer – voltage too low 23 tap control unit 24 speed sensor 25 injection valve No. 1 – voltage too high 26 injection valve No. 2 – voltage too high 27 injection valve No. 3 – voltage too high 28 injection valve No. 4 – voltage too high 29 injection valve No. 5 – voltage too high 31 speed sensor – no signal 32 injection valve No. 6 – voltage too high 33 AGR vacuum control valve – voltage too low 34 AGR vacuum control valve – voltage too high 35 idle control ntil 37 Engine malfunction warning light – Voltage too low 38 Lambda probe – Voltage too low 39 Lambda probe – Voltage too high 41 Speed sensor – Voltage too low 42 Speed sensor – Voltage too high 44 Lambda probe/injection signal – Mixture to lean 45 Larnbda probe/injection signate – Mixture to fat 46 Air pump/relay – Voltage too low 47 Air pump/relay – Voltage too high 48 Supply voltage – low 49 Supply voltage – high 51 ECU – Error in storage ( PROM) 52 motor failure warning light – voltage too high 53 fuel pump relays – voltage too low 54 fuel pump relays – voltage too high 55 control unit 56 idle control valve – voltage too high 57 idle control valve – voltage too low 59 intake air switching magnetic valve 1- voltage too high 61 activated carbon filter magnetic valve – voltage too low 62 activated carbon filter magnetic valve – voltage to h ch 63 intake air switching magnetic valve 1- voltage too high 65 mixture regulationresistant d – Voltage too low 66 Mixing control resistance – Voltage too high 67 Throttle switch 68 Idle switch – does not open 69 Intake air temperature sensor – Voltage too low 71 Intake air temperature sensor – Voltage too high 72 Throttle switch – does not open 73 Air volume/air mass meter – Voltage too low 74 Air volume/air mass meter – Voltage too high 75 Torque control (automatic gearbox) – Voltage too low 76 Torque control (automatic gearbox) – incorrect 79 Drive-in control control unit – motor intervention incorrect 81 Injection valve No. 1 – voltage too low 82 Injection valve No. 2 – voltage too low 83 Injection valve No. 3 – voltage too low 84 Injection valve No. 4 – voltage too low 85 Injection valve No. 5 – voltage too low 86 Injection valve No. 6 – voltage too low 87 Air-conditioning shut-off relay – voltage too low 88 Air-conditioning shut-off relay – voltage too high 89 Lambda probe – voltage too low 91 Lambda probe – Voltage too high 92 camshaft position sensor – wrong signal 93 camshaft position sensor – voltage too low 94 camshaft position sensor – voltage too high 95 warm start valve – voltage too low 96 warm start valve – voltage too high 97 drive slip control controller – wrong signal 98 Lambda probe – voltage too low 113 charging pressure control – charging pressure too high 114 charging pressure idle – over maximum value 115 turbocharger full load – below minimum value 116 charging pressure – above maximum load rt 117 Charge pressure control valve – voltage too low 118 Charge pressure control valve – voltage too high 119 Suction tube pressure sensor – range/power 121 Lambda probe 2 – mixture to mager 122 Lambda probe 2 – mixture to bold 123 Intake air switching magnetic valve 1-blocked 124 Intake air switching magnetic valve 2- blocks 125 Suction tube pressure sensor – below minimum 126 Suction tube pressure sensor – above maximum 129 Exhaust gas recirculation – voltage too low 131 Exhaust gas recirculation – voltage too high 132 Exhaust gas recirculation discharge – false signal 133 exhaust gas recirculation 2- voltage too high 133 intake air recirculation-magnet valve 2- voltage too low 134 exhaust gas recirculation 2- voltage too low 134 intake air recirculation-magnet valve 2- voltage too high 135 engine failure warning light – voltage too low 136 ECU 137 ECU box – temperature too high 138 suction tube pressure sensor – voltage too low 139 suction tube pressure sensor – voltage too high 143 immobilizer – no/wrong signal 144 immobilizer – no Sig nal 145 immobiliser – wrong signal
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A14NE(L,T) intake bridge, crankcase ventilation
I’m just getting familiar with the A14NE(L,T) motors. More precisely, crankcase ventilation, charging pressure control and connecting lines. If I see this correctly, the charging pressure control valve sits under the suction bridge on the channel to the first cylinder. From this, a hose goes forward to the control box on the turbocharger, the other two connections must therefore be connected to the athmosphere pressure and charging pressure. In addition, there are two pressure sensors in the intake bridge, one of which (if I understand correctly) measures the athmosphere pressure. From this I conclude that there is a separate chamber in the intake bridge, which is only impacted with athmosphere pressure. Is this correct? Is there next to the fungus valve in the intake bridge and the diaphragm valve in the valve cover other valves that are involved in the crankcase ventilation? g works when underpressure in the crankcase prevails. If underpressure in the intake tube prevails (empty run = throttle flap closed and no charging pressure) the diaphragm valve in the valve cover closes in order to limit the underpressure in the crankcase. How is the crankcase ventilated then? The underpressure must finally be dismantled. Actually, I would expect an additional non-return valve, which in this case opens and leaves air from the athmosphere into the crankcase (intake point sense). fully between LMM and turbocharger).
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Engine damage: Metal ball in the combustion chamber !?
Hello guys, my Astra J SPorts Tourer engine damage and the fault picture and its probable emergence leave me no rest, I need your swarm knowledge. Car was in inspection (oil, candles, air filter). From the workshop home about 10 km everything ok. The next day no 50m driven, engine lamp on, (engine runs only on 3 pots). Again to the workshop, error confirmed does not run round, a Zilinder does not build up pressure. Zilinderkopf dismantled and found the following (s Bilde r): Apparently a round metal ball got into the combustion chamber and played roulette there. Has anyone ever seen such a thing of you ? Workshop means that the “charge pressure control valve” was defective and lost this small metal part which then hit me engine/valve. Could that have been so ? or did the workshop change perhaps by candle what fell into the combustion chamber (where is worked happen faults). Workshop says, whatever caused this ? for a long time in the engine not only have been 20 km since the impact points are already so oxidized. Your opinion ? I am curious.