Category: Smart Forum

Hello people. I’m desperate, my Omega 2,5 V6 Bj 98, Automatic, ran perfectly. When suddenly, from the way home, no real performance came. He ran only on 5 cylinders. I to BOSCH service in the neighborhood, allegedly ignition coil defective. Renewed, 326 euros incl. work. Picked up, and exactly as before. No performance!!! Now he is standing since 02.11. in the workshop, and they told me: We find no error. Computer, and engine tester say:No error! Ignition cable and K Everyone is all right. At the cold start, it runs great. As soon as it gets warm, a cylinder falls out. ( According to BOSCH service). Is now slowly no longer in the mood for comfort. Does any of you have an idea what that could be??? Thank you very much. Dirk

Hello dear community! Since it has started with us under 0 degrees my omi starts very bad. Must already for some time always 2 times anglow. He is Bj 97 at the start but now I have to pre-glow at least 5 times and then let the starter run very long until he starts.It is as if he only runs on 3 cylinders then runs very briefly 2-3 sec and then it is off. I do this 3 times then run quite normal and jumps again great. Today I also have my fuses n looked through the engine compartment and I always fly out a 30s fuse. Have attached a photo maybe someone knows for what that is and whether this is also the cause.On the photo is exactly the 30s fuse that it always shmells. I look forward to answers

Hi. Mal something positive. Now that I’ve been getting angry about the passage, or sometimes the not passing of my Omega, which Lambdas had suspected, at some point I remembered, when were the last spark plugs changed? Today I built new ones in, first test drive, and…? What now? runs more shitty than before??????? Stand still, just giving gas no suit and just bubbling. So back again, Dad in Mainz. ekt. Could be, back left is not the best anymore. When pulling out I think, but that was just…..AHA, not really inside. So really pushed in, everything necessary screwed in again, still a look and a handle a spark plug in front of it….ne, even loose once strongly annoyed over yourself, properly press in and second test drive. HE RENTS …. Without if and however. I once called that a mess at the construction with self-sharpening, but with good exit.

Mojn, in advance; in 2010 I took over my Omi B 2.0 Bj. 99 (no facelift) as an easy company car (many short distance, factory traffic) with 90000km. Even at that time the clutch slipped slightly here and there, which didn’t bother me very much. Getting started went almost with clutch buckles, but the clutch then reached fast enough…..actually optimal for beginners…. Had it grasped for the first time, it also didn’t slip through, even in higher distances. Okay, go on……so, I even got my boat with trailer (about 700kg) loosely pulled out of the boot ramps, sometimes smelled a bit of clutch, but went So, now are 115,000 km on the clock and I think it’s really time now, now she slips through in the middle of it, but strangely only here and there, mostly when the omi is cold. What’s a little bit surprising is the fact that this slide now went at least 25000km well. I know the peculiarity of this slide. I’m just so that a clutch that suddenly starts to slide after 2000km at the latest is finished and doesn’t reach at all. And certainly can’t pull heavy hangers. So now my questions to you: 1.Is this phenomenon normal with the omi and it just has to be a new clutch in or is there something else in the bucket at the end, I thought about something that the clutch springs never really release, almost as if the clutch was still kicked a little…is that what? 2. Has someone ever used a clutch from the bay (there is about 90Euro) and how are the experiences with it? Can I take the comfort? 3. How does it look with the change, any crooked things to expect, do I need special tool? 4. I think the change is done so, disconnect the coupling line, remove the cardan, remove the trouser tube at the bend, remove the cables and switch rods, gear boom and gear abs stop, flange screws off the engine, pull off gear, renew the clutch… then all the other way back together and vent…. Did I forget something or is it even easier at the end? Don’t think that I can’t handle it, but I’m still grateful for every hint…..why qüalen wenns auch einfach If you can give me tips I already say thank you and wish you happy Easter LG Markus

Hello guys, since my 2.5V6 can no longer be repaired economically, I have a question: can I also install the 3.0 V6 in the Omega 2.5V6? Does the gear shift fit and above all: can it reduce the higher torque?

FOH doesn’t want to install Tempomat… Hello to the round, for days I have read everything here about the retrofitting of the Tempomat. I also printed out the installation instructions and have them in the car. I ordered a Tepomat from Opel, because there was no one to have in the bay for the Diesel. Friendly way they installed the Tempomat there. Then didn’t go. So, workshop called, the usual “no problem, come over”. Today I was there. The master explained to me, my In the existing control unit there would be nothing of a tempomat, so I would need an additional control unit, Then the corresponding cables would have to be laid, I could expect 600 to 800 euros. The ordered steering wheel pole has the part number 1241224. Now I read in an old article, it should be the part number 1241221. In the steering column I have a 2 wire cable with plug. There is now the cruise control connected n, but not before. According to the many installation instructions, I need nothing more than the steering stick lever. I drive a 2.5 diesel with automatic. I wanted to treat myself to something nice for Christmas. Should that have been? An additional control unit can’t and I don’t want to treat myself. Hopefully someone has a tip. I am very grateful. A nice evening still. Greetings

Evening, today at work, the subject of clutch ventilation came up….had told me that I had to pump well with me….thinks a colleague, he would always make this quite easy: he supposedly goes to the front of a caliper, put there on the ventilation nipple a hose, the other end on the clutch nipple and then presses the brake fluid from the brake caliper (nipple open of course) into the system of the clutch until above no air comes out. Done. Constant control and refilling of the brake fluid provided. From the principle to the point of view, has any of you tried this before?