Category: Smart Forum

Hello dear community, since I have very little idea, and do not know if I should ask, I am dependent on you. Hope you have been so kind and help me with the purchase decision. Would be very grateful to you Brothers. I have to take credit for the following car.# Opel Omega 2.2 —-2000 Edition Ez=2000 engine capacity 2198 cm3 106kw-144 Ps Euro3 160.000 km hu 10/13 The dealer wants to have 2200 euros. From the outside he shirks except for some small scratches, to be quite well cared for. 1) n purchase price for realistic, or is the too high? 2) Have never had an Omega, can I mention some flaws? 3)As I said, from the dealer….Do I see the right thing that he is obliged to give me 12 months used car warranty on gearbox and engine? 4) What do you estimate, costs the car annual taxes and how high is the insurance? (Been since last year June out of the probation period-doesn’t know how much I actually am :/) 5)At 160.000 km could w Else parts begin to weaken? I am very grateful to you for answers, tips, tricks and help

Hello, and again a question in the round. Apart from the fact that my new engine works well, I still had to ask myself a question again and again at the low temperatures. How high should the engine temperature be at temperatures around 0°C? My thermostat is OK and the temperature shows me even after a longer motorway ride always around 87°C. However, I think this should be about 90-92°C in order. Anyway, the heating nic manages to Does the interior really have to be heated…whether that’s because of it? Should one perhaps, like in good old times, just make a piece of cardboard in front of the cooler at these low temperatures? As said otherwise, everything works excellently….very rare but even more welcome condition I would be very grateful for an answer….Mfg Rudi

Hello, I’m new here, but I’ve seen that there are a lot of professionals and experienced Opel enthusiasts here. For me it’s my first Opel. Who can give me a tip. I recently bought an Omega B Caravan 2.5 Lt.. At the beginning he scared me very much, because he consumed 18 Lt. in the city, but according to the operating instructions is unfortunately normal. Now I am at a consumption of 30 Lt. at 100 Km, whereby I mean that I also do not switch off at the same time In addition, in my opinion, it is running for too long in increased speed mode. That’s at least 500 m each time, with the BC 39- 40 lt. per 100 km. I don’t dare to touch the accelerator anymore, let alone report it to my wife. Although I’m not an Opel professional, I’ve mostly repaired my cars myself, but this Omega poses a problem to me. May it be that the control unit has a Macke. Thank you in advance. for your tips Jürgen

hello. I wish you all a nice holiday. unfortunately I don’t have so much time to write here at the moment. Short feedback of my defective Lima: it was defective. New pure and good it was again. the exhaust was only a coincidence. So my next question is about the door claddings. I ordered some and that is in leather. They are already there, look good and not defective. Unfortunately it is not possible to build these on my car. somehow they don’t want to fit. the top the edge of the cladding which is then practically attached to the disc is so curved that it is not possible to build it to the car. my question is there are differences in leather and normal fabric cladding? or are there differences to soda and caravan? the front cladding I could build with bend and break. But will they dismantle again. The rear claddings are absolutely not to be installed. one more remark: the rear claddings have each such storage compartments, w has the caravan otherwise arched door? I thank you already and wish you all still nice holidays. I have to work now

Huhu, now the radio is in, but he doesn’t let me enter the code. Again, for those who don’t know it yet My father bought a Volvo on Friday, on Saturday our Omega was in the newspaper and was bought immediately, but the car is not yet paid and is still standing with us until 29.12 at the earliest. Problem, because I had to drive the car for 8 months, I beat my Kenwood in there so that I can at least listen to CDs. I myself have left in the Astra The Astra has also been registered for 1 1/2 years and I drive the Omega very rarely, but I left the radio in it anyway. Now Issa but sold and my Kenwood should actually be sold net. So the old one has to get back in, which I just finally got there. The radio also lights up and if the car is off or the key is out, the red light also lights up because of the code. According to the instructions for use I have to have keys in it. , Ignition on, radio on and then there should be computer “Code” or “Safe” right on the board, then I should hold the AS key pressed until a signal comes so that I can enter the code. Now I’ve been stuck there for half an hour, I press the AS key for infinitely long, but it doesn’t appear n signal tone, nor can I enter the code. What can I do now? Or what does that mean? What’s the matter with this thing?

Start with it… one of the probably most annoying, annually recurring topics to start… HO HO HO Today the last time at the Blechdepp (computer) and here in the forum until the beginning of 09 … Christmas stress and then slip into the new year (finally again with family, omi and snowboard) … Wish you all a happy, contemplative Christmas with everything that belongs to it, and especially then breakdown-free ride with our all hobby (whether A or B) <- the addition applies Andree and of course a a good and healthy slide into the new year (NOT with the omi) but with your own hands !

Hello, today wanted to change the front hardy disc with my Omega B (switch). To do this you have to solve six screws, 4 I got off and with the other two I now have the problem that these are almost round, moreover you can not use a ring key but only a fork key there. But the fork key has no real stop and the screw off is impossible. Is there still a way to solve this ?? I am with my Latin at the end.

Hello, some question what would you think it’s worth??? since I have invested so much, I really don’t know what you could ask for: Omega B MV6 Limo 3.0 V6 Automatic EZ: 07/1998 Tüv/HU 03/2013, Novaschwarz metallic Equipment: Xenon, leather seats fully electric, board computer, cruise control, Navi, 4x e.window, e.Schied roof, e.Heckrollo, climate control, fog lights, alarm system, seat heating, parking sensors, locking differential, Solar Reflect windshield, Funk ZV etc. New in 2011: W ind windscreen, xenon headlight (Hella), xenon torch, complete BREMS INSTALLATION, complete locking differential 45%, track rods, coupling rods, axle bearing, cylinder head seal + everything that belongs to it, stainless steel oil cooler, VDD + valve cover, ZR + water pump, heating control valve, boiler water tank + many small parts. Automatic gearbox oil change, Tüv I would make new without any problems. Defects: seat heating without function, rust at 3 doors (not through), rust at the rear left of the fender (not through) otherwise pictures are in my gallery. Would be happy if you could give me such a house number! Thank you.

Hello, i had already reported in another thread (V6 engine exchange with old STG) that after engine installation the new engine had cracker noises. The camshafts had set on the running surface strongly rust. We cleaned everything and slightly ground, but right at the first time when the engine was running, however, after it was warm, a nailing or clacking from approx. 2500 to 3000 was heard. Lt. Opel should not be the hydros. Everything was off, with him the engine was wall-mounted and he claimed that the engine was still running before the assembly and that was about 3 weeks before our installation. After rust was impossible to judge. The clacky noise has not gone away so far. On the contrary. Now he suddenly began to clap loudly during the ride. So, as with a too high play of a valve, it sounded like a single rattle noise and came from the left side. I took that maybe now a Hydozüssl was completely broken. My workshop called and they said to come here very slowly. I drive to the yard of the workshop and there the engine goes off and all lamps on. At the start again did nothing, the engine didn’t turn any more. In the workshop we tried to turn by hand but also so the engine let itself not turn in the direction of running. The timing belt is not torn after control. The workshop suspects a capital engine damage and I should save myself the effort the left head on But I’m still unsure and I want to have my head reexamined. What would you advise. Greeting Wanzlick

Hello, I’m getting tired of my cart. In the meantime, the box has been standing in the workshop for over 3 months this year because everything went ass all the time. Well, I still have reliable Astra and Vectras in the family. Meanwhile, I’m only being raised with my Ommi (“Well, how’s your standing gear?!) So, after engine, cylinder head seal (new engine), Krummer, power steering, and ABS control unit were changed (since June 2010 !!!), the box is running again ar. However, the engine control lamp lights up. Error reading brought the following: – tank ventilation valve mass closing – 31 speed signal starting process faulty. Could it be on the camshaft sensor? (That is not yet changed, which is actually a miracle, since almost everything has already been changed at my MV6 *grumble*). The light flickeres while driving, but except that it runs slightly more restless in idle mode can be noticed when driving. Furthermore, my TC perman If it has been fixed once (so it is deactivated after that). Engine off and on, then TC is back. ABS ECU was repaired only 2 months ago. Could it be on a sensor now? Hope you can continue to help me. But one thing I know was that my last Omega was *frust* Greeting