Category: Smart Forum

Hi Junx… after I gave my AR 35 times in professional hands to have a maintenance, I would like to put the experience into words. Due to my Internet research I got to a specialist for automatic transmissions in Düsseldorf, with which I then kindly arranged an appointment at 9:00 o’clock. Order: control oil change, filter change and brake band, if necessary. Since I got a different order at short notice on this day, send So I made my screwdriver with Omi at the agreed time in Düsseldorf. Who was not present was the master, who then appeared around 10:45 clock and went to work at 11:00 clock. My screwdriver (self auto mechanic) was also allowed to look over the Master’s shoulder. My screwdriver returned around 15:00 clock,(my hold had an appointment at 14:00 clock, which you had to cancel) met me with serious face and began to tell. Oil pan removed and many chips at the magn The oil smelled burned, was carbon black and actually no longer a lubricant. Therefore the maintenance at Km-Stand 210,000 was already urgently necessary. Conclusion: Lamella coupling at the wear limit, or already above. Then it can be found: The master probably forgot to get oil filter and seal. Without cleaning the sealing surfaces thoroughly, he lubricates a sealing paste on the old seal and pats the lids under the GG. On the question of what the oil filter and the brake band were like, he only said: “Change oil filter is not necessary and the brake band is not necessary to look up.” Before, however, the boys of the workshop desperately looked for the oil filter and the brake band. Schrauber stood next to it and was just amazed. Ergo: The specialist for automatic transmission has not the trace of an idea of the AR 35!! Not to say that I called him afterwards and took a strong break. but soon realized that I was not as ignorant as his other customers…(Kurt be thank you!) At least he explained to me technically correctly that my AR 35 is at the end. So dear Omidriver…. If you want to keep your AR waiting…. This is an address where you better make a bow around it. Address???…There is only one in Heerdt. Greeting Jürgen

As Thombeat told me on the occasion of my last birthday (“let you give cavity seal, otherwise you have to drive to the punishment Omega B”) this case has now occurred. Was today at the TÜV, ok already the inspection was passed, without defects! AU and gas system test had already done the “new” already three weeks ago. Had always only Saturdays time for repair, elephant feet rear axle, steering levers, brake discs and coverings front, lever path handbrem rectified, gas connection moved behind the tank flap, standing light renewed at the front, NSL AHK connected, windscreen wiper replaced at the front, seat belt replaced at the rear right with belt lock, AHK ball head renewed, engine wash due to oil residues. In addition, new candles, new oil with filter (10W40), new air filter, new pollen filter, good used interior equipment at the front and at the back. In addition, new German papers, report according to Parag.21. It is a silver Y22XE as scarf ter, with Xenon, AHK, Tempomat, CD Radio, Rootwood and Gasanlage Prins VSI. He has 331.00 km on the clock and the purchase price was 1,250 Euro. Now I am looking forward to the air-conditioned 500 km tour to Rotterdam. And especially for Thombeat, also this Omega B has rust, but I accept the “punishment” ! All the work done was done by myself, sometimes quickly knocked on the proudly swelled chest. Thanks to Kurt for his telephone advice.

Hello guys, have a problem with the temperature indicator. ( 96er 2.5 TD ) When he has reached his operating temperature it always stands between 82-90° Then just out of the nothing it goes to stop and the BC shows coolant level. And as it has come, the indicator returns to normal. Have checked the balance tank and it is full up. Does any idea? Greeting Big E

Hello everybody, JO, I already again and again my Omi has a problem that I have to solve . My Omi has a heat problem, not a serious one, but it annoys me immensely and maybe someone of you knows advice, I hope it. I am at the end with my Latin anyway. Because of the heat problem I have renewed the following in the last 14days – ZKD’s, Wapu, Thermostat and two days ago also a new water cooler. In between the water system was flushed and the climate condenser of Since the new cooler is in it, it has become a little better but not optimal as I would like it to be. The symptoms are the following: Outside temp. at 18° in the evening, thermostat opens according to the display at approx. 94°, water temp. falls down quite quickly to 91°, then rises again to approx. 94° and falls a second time off to approx. 92°. After that the temp. swings for about 4-5 km to 93-94°, then it can the temp. I don’t think it’s normal at least not on 13Km ride at about 50-60Km/h with only one or two short ampelstops. Even on the highway at 100km/h it keeps the temp. just at about 95°, I rise to 120km/h the temp. over 95°. I know each time the fan stops and climbs slowly but unstoppably over the 95° until the fan switches on at approx. 96° and then the temp. rises at approx. 98° and the water cools down again to 95°. In any case, I saw a very hard brown mud (say I have now) that I removed logically. That was at the right ZK. At the left ZK the hollow screw was clean. I guess that the previous owner used cooler density to cover a water loss before the sale. Could it be that on the right ZK a little bit of water was removed. I guess that the previous owner once used cooler density to cover a water loss before the sale. n water channel is closed or semi-slummed?? and therefore the temp. does not remain in the normal range?? What kind of hardcore cooler cleaner must be used to dissolve any such custations?? Hope I can help myself.

Hello dear specialists…… I need your advice. I am about to exchange my Omega for another at a low “up price”, but I still have my thoughts. I have the possibility for “thin” to get a 3.0 V6 caravan. When I had the test drive the last time became quite different to me. And not only from the driving feeling……….LEIDER After just under 30km and stop in the parking lot steamed (stiff after burnt oil ) it from the hood left and right side of the bend When I drove back, I came to the gas and the battery control light went on. Unfortunately, but not again. I assume that the ZKD is gone (which I would not hope) mileage of the car 134,000 km Unfortunately, the whole thing in the front room is only engine *hihi*, can you tell me if this car also has a valve cover seal, which can be leaky? Otherwise this car is with a heater from W ebasto equipped. There is nothing to say about the chassis, also the brakes are completely OK and there is also no rust to see. Climate control top, seat hzg top, sliding roof top and the interior also completely OK. Somehow the car also makes the impression that it was tuned, on the automatic lever on the console is an emblem with TSW on it. And the question of the questions…… green, yellow or red badge???? Thank you already in advance greeting test driver

Hello guys, I made the head seals with motor X30XE at my Sintra V6 year 97 and had the heads planned immediately. I cleaned everything cleanly as meticulously as possible and installed it again. Nockkenwellen incl. Hydros set again on the cylinders as they were. Despite that the camshafts (Nockswellen not yet turned to control time OT) are free, so I can’t open the motor with a valve. I then have the camshafts loose again I turn and block something and if I turn counterclockwise, which you can’t at all, then I come only half a turn. I think that the piston hits on the head.But the heads can’t be planned down when the valves are in there. I think!?!? But when planning, not much was taken off and the valves were also in there when planning. Isn’t there? The head is already lying up and the head seals the have been installed by Elring. Can anyone help me? THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! Greetings fideist

Again a small new problem. After starting the MKL is lit up for 1-2 seconds. Then disappeared again and no longer appears. About OBD we read out the following:P0130 Missing ??? (8) Lambda probe signal not correct As far as clear, something with the Lambda probe seems faulty. The hint “P0130 Missing ????” is not clear to us. We have therefore deleted the error and it is not stored again. Anyway not so far. Likewise, flow through the ventilation system. g since a few days, always after starting, a swing gasoline and exhaust fumes. Reinforced at the first daily cold start. In the driving operation then “pure” air is to be determined. What should we look for now? We have the garage available including tomorrow and could go on troubleshooting.

So many posts on the topic “cracking” make a completely confused!!!! Omega A, 2,oL Automatik, Kombi, Bj. 93, oil change at the HA-Diff. 8 months ago (same, sucked out and new filled up to lower edge), without any problems!! Since then I even drove about 15,000km! Suddenly I had felt a “cracking” on/in the underfloor after 8h at approx. 2°C parking, after driving off on the AB after approx. 10km. The cracking was so loud that I thought with open side window that I could get my Mitb Do not hurt and have hit accordingly with little load at traffic lights and crossings!!! Facts: – Under load came immediately after starting the crack!! – According to the feeling: at every turn of the differential, or drive shaft, a crack!! – R- as well as D (back as forward, no matter which stage) – definitely not motor, because not speed dependent!! (in stand speed increase, no problem!!!) – under load backwards (with slight pressure on the brake) after movement of the chassis also Kn acken. But only when the chassis moves! – Fully put on the brake and then step and full throttle: no problem!!! (only when the chassis moves it is there). – And then at rhytmic intervals (speed-dependent, not speed-dependent)!! So one thing is clear: No motor problem, and also no transmission technical! But: chassis! Ergo: Kardan, or Diff, or drive shafts! Who has had similar, or even the same already??? Would be great, of course, if a thatel I could save myself the “underlay” and change either the differential or the assumed drive shaft without having too much unnecessary work. Thx for Future: Willie