Category: Smart Forum

hey leutz… I made the head seal with me a short time ago…when running warm and checking cool water hoses I noticed that the hoses on the throttle valve part are cold…I then removed the one that goes to the cool water tank and there comes no water…probably there is no circulation….is that normal????

Hello, I have the following problem, my steering wheel remote control will continue to glow after I’ve finished! It doesn’t go out after a long time, but always lights up. The problem is of course the battery….. Well my question is, is there anyone who knows anything? Or is there any relay that is capable of doing so, or does it get electricity from the radio? Which would surprise me, as this actually turns off. Whether now only the LFB power is pulling I can nciht say, on each n case, it’s enough to flatten my new Varta! Hope someone can help me Thanks Greeting KABN PS: Is a facelift

Hello to each other. I have the following problem, was at the beginning of the week to make oil change, (5W40) with oil filter of course. The car should be looked through as I want to drive next week dammit on the holiday! It seems to be all right, they told me! Today I looked in the engine room and saw on the right back side that there is probably something leaking (it has run out a bit(lubricated, not much)(probably oil !?) I describe it a little as I don’t know how to get there. So I have a facelifter BJ 2000, 2.2L 16V, 144 HP. If you are standing in front of the car and the hood is on then on the left side of me is the air filter box! So where the filler nozzle for the oil is there right of (behind) there goes from the engine housing a thinner hose down where after a few centimeters of the hose is attached to such a steel tube, this is then at the lower engine block or clutch proximity? with 2 screws screwed on. This area is a little wet, think it’s oil. (if I got it with the flashlight and I could see it seems to be greasy on the side too.But can I not say/see directly. (Can it be from a defective lid seal?) What can that be? How bad is that? Do I have to do it before the holiday? Wouldn’t it have to be seen at the holiday check? Need your advice! I thank you for the answers! mfg Omega73

Hi guys, I’m playing with the idea of selling my Omega! It’s an Omega 2.0 16V CD Reflection with 208000 KM. It’s jungle green and it’s guaranteed to have no rust! The car has the following special features: – Leather equipment – Automatic transmission – Seat heating front and rear – Automatic air conditioning – Electric seats front – Removable trailer clutch – 4 electric window lift – Electric outdoor mirror – Navigation system – Electric sliding roof – Loading compartment cover un d Separator – 4 aluminium wheels – telephone preparation in the middle armrest – built-in fire extinguisher – large on-board computer with check control What else would it be worth? Does anyone have any idea…? He has no defects except the NWS and the coupling rods so far; but I will fix the defects next week. I play with the thought of getting one like this: click. What do you say about it? After a timing belt exchange he should go again, because the car looks very good. Nicely maintained, well equipped, lukewarm Only with the timing belt 2 teeth are rubbed off (but the timing belt is still skipped!!) and therefore one should start it still nciht. What would the Audi be worth in your eyes? What is the Omega worth? Here again a pair of pictures about the Omega. Do not scare it is neither washed nor polished:http://pic.leech.it/gallery.php?id=a3C4LkR8l2 Questions about questions and hopefully just as many answers . Thank you! Greetings

Moin, 95er 2.0 16 v suffers from more or less violent jerking after the end of the cold start phase. This error only occurs since the Lambda probe wg AU changed to Tüv (sigh). Initially, errors 038,039 and 19 came when using a Unifit probe.After switching to original part Opel at least the error indicator was gone.Unfortunately, it still jerks away. Mistakes are still not filed.MKL is out – nothing in the memory. Just for the sake of caution LLR and the Paintedeite hollow screw cleaned but has only a lower idle speed causes about 900 rpm instead of 1100 rpm. Where are possible sources of error? Greeting RolloX

My omni stutters while accelerating. It’s as if it only runs on 5 pots. Jumps in the cold as well as in the warm condition always. LMM changed, candles all deer brown. Fing just started 14 days ago, while driving light unbalanced.(Motorshake) Something of the gas and good…again some gas and there it was. Days later everything was fine again…. Now when idle it was easier to run round and giving gas as if it was a 5-cylinder engine, with lots of gas giving like a diesel. With slow gas giving a little better. M otor sounds good, but also accelerates……good. Petrol pump, filter and tank new. As well as all gasoline hoses.

Hi, my charging voltage is only 13.3 V. The vehicle is an Omega B 3.0 V6 with 120A LiMa. I had the problem that the ABS-lamps were running, at the same time the water temperature rose abruptly by 5°. After ignition out and again everything was normal again. Probably over or undervoltage from the Lima, error code could not be turned off (no error saved), with which Tech 2 I did not yet read out. 2 weeks ago I replaced the Lima with a brewed charge voltage was then also at 13.9V idle. Today came again the error from the ABS, charge voltage is at 13,3 V, no matter which speed, does not come to 14,5V. Mass connection seems to be OK, from the battery-minus pole to the engine and there is no resistance to the car. I can not believe that with 2 Limas the controller is defective, can it have another cause? Greeting, JoJo

There are contributions like this one, which was given here somewhere recently for the best. Locked out by the ZV… As a desk killer you grin inwardly at the performance, read on, because you can’t really help – that’s rare. Now to my actual question: Does someone have a guide for the replacement of the engine for the central locking on the driver’s side *****ganz dollrotwerd ****** I have the phenomenon now: three doors open by radio and z u, only the driver’s side does not react. Highlight today, also by key the driver’s door lock denied the opening! My FOH thought that there was no information from factory, which suggests a “serial error”. The part costs at the FOH about 45 Euro plus approx. 60 Euro installation. Before the exchange I would like to build out the engine, to see if there is anything else to save. Could be only a contact error. I dropped the driver’s door window from the passenger side and left it from the driver’s side. d see there – popp the car opened with radio… Such an instruction as pdf or so would be class already. Hello dotti, hello omega opa – how ́s it going (why there ́s actually no smiley for a friendly whistler, who makes himself hypocritical from the field greeting Bommel

I bought on 22.1 an Omega B from a private company. unfortunately I was not allowed to make a test drive, although the car was registered, but according to the seller had no insurance cover. Engine was quite restless, I registered myself and paid for myself, drove bar – mark on it, Kaufvetrag with exact KM stand registered, and mentions that it gives off extreme noises at short back and forth, and no test drive was possible !!!! After exactly 51 km drive after i ch was at home, the engine no longer jumps at !!! According to ADAC meherere defects according to error message device , but cause that it does not run is gasoline pump , estimate 280-, ! I immediately reported seller , first the son wanted to come by , was not !!! then I meant , I give car back or repair numbers , then he meant repair would be no problem !! have witnesses that he spoke at the phone so and I have recorded conversation !!! now I have bill , answer : he is now 1 week in Frankfurt !!! WAs should I make ??????