Category: Smart Forum

Hello, I think my Omega is female! Be a year he’s ticking around … makes Rabatz … and if “Man” gets really sour then suddenly everything has been like nothing. After 30 – 40 kilometers of driving distance you hear a slight squeaking from the back left. The sound then quickly becomes stronger and changes its tone position, after a few kilometers it sounds like something is eating tight (as if metal eats in metal ) you are afraid to continue driving. Since I still gu t 300 km before, I stopped and looked back left. The rim left was warm … much warmer than left … the wheel bearing (ordinarily torn to wheel) however had so in stressed condition no too big game So pure and further ….. and …. no noise there anymore, the whole 300km to home … nothing to hear anymore. To house I checked the wheel bearing again with unloaded wheel and also immediately disassembled the burning, cleaned the brake caliper properly, brake shei be derusted ( I thought the sound could also come from the rust particle ) nice copper paste behind the brake blocks etc. It went so well until again the 400km to Rügen stood. After 50 kilometers driving distance as described above ……. everything again as usual …… it squeaking and crunches until you stop and tear at the wheel … then the spook is like the first time is over ! So it goes again and again when the good piece ??? long distances should lie back. Now I am gespa nnt on your diagnosis !!! Best regards Uwe C

Hello, actually only one little thing: My tail wiper wipes normally, but unfortunately stops again and again above the actual final position. Unfortunately, you can’t just take the thing down and put it a little lower, because it runs down to the tin when wiping. What can you do there? Is there any possibility of setting? Somehow, the young people do that with their front wipes on the golfs and astras, where one is amputated and the remaining one is amputated. nn stands like a DTM car in the middle. Is there a way to let the thing stop again in the normal position? Greeting Christian

Hello ! I desperately try to bring the CO value in increased idle to the required 0.3%, because the TüV denied me the badge without passing AU. I have already renewed all seals, new shaft seals, new exhaust manifolds (the old one was about 10cm torn), KAT is not 1000km old, LMM about 3 months old, new candles, throttle valve cleaned… Ommi does not jerk, lies super on the gas, no dropouts, idle quiet and constant at approx. 700upm, No cold start problems o the so. There are apparently no negative signs visible…?! Vehicle data : Omega B Caravan, year 1995, motor : X20XEV, mileage : 230,000km Idle CO – 0.363 – i.o. increased idle CO – 0.572 – n.i.O Lambda – 1.022 – i.o. control circuit test Basic procedure 2 deflections – i.o. initial value ^1.015 / interference size detected / ^excluded 1.029 / interference size detected / ^excluded 1.017 The CO value in the increased idle is not below 0.5 The only thing I have not yet replaced e is the Lambda probe because I thought if the control circuit check is fine, the probe is also fine…. – or am I wrong there..? But since I can’t think of anything else I will replace the Lambda probe tomorrow, no idea if it helps…. – quite expensive attempt..! Does any of you still have advice ????? Thank you and greeting ! Dirk

Hello. I now have the next problem with my Omega. In the last days my cooling temperature did not even go up to 90 degrees and had not had the full heating heat. I then renewed the thermostat. During the test drive I noticed that the temperature indicator rises from 80 to almost 100 degrees and back again. Over and over again. And I can put the heating on completely hot, but it comes only cold air or very minimally warm air. and if I unscrew the lid from the balance tank, you can hear that there’s pressure on it. I’ve already tried the search function but somehow didn’t find what could solve my problem. Could someone help me what it might be about ?

Hello dear Opel driver our MV6 is I think a woman has been in possession for 5 weeks and he only makes trouble unfortunately. We are so far when it goes on to throw in dynamite or sell it! Car we bought for 2000 euros we thought we were really great offer but the seller would probably know more than he wanted to admit today he no longer goes to the tele or reacted on emails. We certainly have to screw 30 screws in on the engine. But for that the car can do nothing or like the un dense windshield or the wrong car pass. or the installation of the poorly built-in gas system. 1 He stinks of petrol 2. Lights in the speedometer were at one point dark thought the bulb is defect but this evening the whole amatur went again. 3 Sometimes blinker or warning blinker does not work. 4. I mean always the battery lamp glows darkly in the evening at times brighter times darker but not so if there was something kaput. 5. Seat heating without function. 6 On the engine is always oils on suction, valve cover has been changed as well as seal and that is seal. But it comes somewhere from above, on the suction on a clipper is en hose is thinking for gearbox ventilation can come about? 7 Have now always transmission faults inside. Opel can’t access the transmission whether there are errors or not. But whenever the tech has connected the error was gone most of the error goes in when you hit it today it went on at 90 KMH.

Hya, unfortunately, the search function doesn’t help me any more. Either the topic is too rare (???) or I enter the wrong search terms. I don’t have my ‘self-help’ book there either 🙁 I still have to change the driver’s door at my station wagon today. Covering both doors is down, and I hoped to see the views of the door belts somewhere. Push cake – there’s tin in front. I can’t get the bolts on the hinges out (and I don’t want violence yet). Can someone write to me quickly how I get the doors changed quickly and gently? THX Mathias

tach gemeinde! well a completely different question, what is the difference between a “normal” omega b, a prefacelift and a facelift. my modest expectation is not enough in this spore. the difference between normal and facelift is known to me, is also visible. but what is a prefacer??? thank you for the help in advance agemo sutol

Hello, as mentioned above I have problems with the engine of my omegas it runs for a long time quiet and goes off when uncoupled or also during the ride and then jumps after 10-15 min again at ADAC said after error memory readout that the crankshaft sensor is defective which I changed this morning and after longer ride also did not make any problems however about 3-4 hours ago on the highway he did not take any more gas, the engine was however still at only slow until e r when uncoupled on the side strip simply went out battery directly empty and jumped no more wanted to bridge him (car from the father) but he no longer jumps up but thanks to ADAC on a passenger parking lot my question to you because it can’t ever be the crankshaft sensor anymore, you know the error or did someone already have the same problems? Thanks already andy

Hello, After I had to change the petrol pump 2 times in the last 6-7 years (I know, don’t run empty……)I think about whether I don’t just switch off the pump in gas operation. I would pick up the signal “Gas operation and install a relay in the pump line. Does this cause any problems I don’t think about. Maybe the controller or the BC?

With me is constantly displayed the indicator that I should refill the cooling water, although the balance tank is full. What can that be, I once heard it should be the float. If yes, where do I get it and how is it installed.