Category: Smart Forum

Evening together I have a problem with my thick and indeed I notice since I have my summer tire on it that my steering wheel with not so great roads always pulls to the side. Ok the 235er 17zöller are not exactly the narrowest and go anyway almost every trackrille afterwards but is that so extreme??? Have for Tüv at the front completely new crossbars and pendulum supports installed and wanted to do now still a axle measurement but to do the not 2x because maybe something else I want to be certain before that. If I do a full braking on straight track, the cart like ne 1 stands without even pulling the steering wheel. With my 195er 15 inch winter tires I don’t have the problem. Can it possibly also be the dampers/springs that are gone because I notice that often even when a impact hole comes or a bottom shaft and the car bite into the knee the steering wheel then moves away. Unfortunately, the tuv didn’t do a damper test in January because they had no equipment there was the omi only on the torture bench and neichtsprüfung was taken there. Since unfortunately you did not see anything of possible starting damper problems, they were dense or dry from outside too. So who a tip or advice for me has always out with it. Is a damn bad feeling when the omi pulls sideways. Thanks and greeting Christian

Hello people I’ve already read a lot of helpful things here, and I’ve also acted on them. But my problem could not be solved….unfortunately. The following: Car does not start,FS read out,KWS and NWS changed (branded goods) WITHOUT success So timing belts checked,and I noticed the following: The NW markings are correct but the notch of the flywheel was too far to the left (seen from the front) And the notch was moved about 7 cm. So the belt should have jumped over the KW which doesn’t make any sense because the tension is right. Does anyone have a hint what might have happened there? Gruss Holger Omega 2.0 16V Bj:1995 XE20XEV

Hall oils, despite the pains of the search I have not become really smarter. In the Z22XE 2 Lambda ́s are installed. What values should these deliver? Rule probe commutes with me between 01-0.9 V (quick change), diagnostic probe between 0.3 and 0.6V (slow change). Have at present increased fuel consumption (approx. 3-4l/100km), and occasionally set FC 0130. Also brings occasional “sawing” in the LL, but only sporadically. Error is not really reproducible. Irgendjemand ne idea? Or possibly the W received from the Z22XE from the China Cracker? Greetings Lars

Hello, I have a huge problem with the omega B brake. My wife was on the road with the car and wanted to brake because of traffic and nothing happened, absolutely nothing. She could only get out of the danger situation with a quick lane change. (I am very proud of her!) She then stopped with the handbrake, turned off the engine and called me. Since automatic, I first thought the engine had gone out and she had at the moment of the action, only since But she told me it was nothing. Full body and not the slightest delay to reach. After I had to let the first curses -you and yours. Omega- pass over me, I asked you (really ask) to turn on the engine again and carefully – with one hand at the hand brake – to drive and to check the brake again. She made it again and said astonished: It was all back to normal. I was Only this time, because of the rain-wetting road, with the – caused by the ABS- rubbing of the brake. I -when she came home again – visually controlled everything first. (but nothing even nearly error-curing noticed) Since I suspect the mistake in the ABS at first, I first took this out of my power by removing the fuse. My search in all relevant forums and their search functions did not bring me any further yet. To the info! Brakes were made completely new last year. So, discs front, rear, blocks, front, rear, brake fluid change. The car was always maintained top workshop. I and no one of my friends and acquaintances ever came to meet. So far no one could really rhyme with it. Therefore now also here my questions: Does anyone have Have you ever experienced or heard of something like this before?And, -do not trust me to ask- what could be the cause?Did someone have good cutting drawings of the ABS valve block? I liked to deal intensively with which can be the cause of such a life-threatening failure of the brake. Thank you for your efforts in advance.

Heyho, the following problem has been with me for a long time and it brings me more and more into perplexity.. 1. Folding the front suspension So as soon as I am on a worse road (Pflaster or similar ) a hard flapping on the passenger side. I thought then will probably be the damper has been changed to at 60,000. FOH did everything well and nice but each after about 200km the same goes off again so the question to someone who already gets a Similar test had what that could be? Pendulum support, bearing or something? 2.Temparature display of the cooling water. I recently noticed that the display rises to 92 -97° after short rides (10km) and always fluctuates in the 2° range. Sometimes it also happens that the display hits to the stop. If I then slightly knock against the disc it goes down again and behaves “to some extent” calmly. All other displays (speed, tank etc.) run without problems.What could it be? Mass FOH said that the cooler itself was fine, so I think only the thermostat or the water pump would remain or not? Thanks already in advance for the answers =) mfg

Hello together, for some time now my Omega has been swimming while driving, is very vulnerable to track grooves, milling edges and wind. Had a spouted track rod head, but I have immediately renewed everything, complete track rods with heads on both sides, as well as crossbars, stabistangs and cathedral bearings. After that axle measurement. The problem has become a bit better but still available. I have noticed the following. If I have my car on stage and to the right The same thing is with the left side when I hit to the left. If the car is running in a standing position I have some game on the steering wheel in the beaten state, on straight wheels it seems to be gone. So steering gear is defective? Thanks in advance for the tips.

Hello there, I’ve looked at a few of your entries and hope you can help me too? Have 2L Omega, with 115ps, automatic transmission and Klima system. I installed a new water pump and a new timing belt about 3 weeks ago. Today I installed a used cooler from the scrap yard. Now I have a problem and the engine is only getting hot, I hardly drive a kilometer and the temperature indicator is on 100, but the heating inside the car b It’s cold, it’s just cold air. Have now removed the thermostat which is sitting on the engine, because I thought it was defective, but still the same problem! Engine gets hot and heating stays cold. Do you have any idea what that could be? Please sign up, thank you very much Willi.

I’ve looked through the forum and didn’t really make sense of it. What exactly do I need for it? Car see below, the 4 pole plug I found and what else????? Has an experience with chip tuning on this engine?? How does the ECU behave after the chip is plugged???(Immobilizer and so) MfG

Hello dear people, I have a sad message to convey, my Omega is a total damage. I drove to work in the morning, the same distance as for 3 years, all of a sudden, such a madman comes up to me with a speed of hell on my track. I gave light horn and horn, but no reaction from the other driver… Could then only tear my steering wheel jerkwise to the left and drive left into a field. Unfortunately, I had a concreted bridge before first the damage did not seem so tragic, left front triangular handlebars and track bars, possibly front axle. Engine jumped easily and ran very nice and quiet. There was no oil or cooling liquid or anything else. In the evening after work the car was dragged home with a few friends from the fire department. Unfortunately, the Omega was sitting on the bridge again while pulling out, and suddenly cooled out, either a hose or cooling I hope the engine didn’t get anything. The gearbox or the clutch must also have got something off, because when the clutch is pressed no more gears go in, only without a clutch. Become on the weekend or so if time is sometimes a damage line up, but there is certainly not much to save, not even to disassemble and sell in individual parts. Unfortunately.. dear greetings Marek

Hello, I have the problem that my omi in the stand between about 2500 and 3000 totally vibrates. is it the gearbox? it doesn’t matter if I kick the clutch or not. but as I said everything in the stand, don’t really trust me from my pit away. 🙂 curvature is new, timing belts now complete and my gearbox I have to lie around. I don’t know if I can change the sample.? can the vibrating come from the gearbox? am with my Latin end. drive shaft I don’t guess since it’s in the stand and so the drive shaft does not run. I don’t know exactly what to look like with the motor bearings, are a little porous but look well “pushed up”, so not pressed in (don’t know how else to describe it). does that still mean they are over? HELP and thank you already in advance