Category: Smart Forum

So about 4 weeks ago had oil loss –> Cyclone oil separator built in thought that it was because of it, still has oil loss. Was today in the workshop – said the turbo is broken because there oil leaks out there. But the turbo is almost new only 17000km in it. So it can be that by the old oil separator the pipes to the turbo can possibly be damaged? Since this has never been changed. Can it be that the new one is already in ass. Hope you have tips for me? Many Dabk

Hello My stepfather wants to sell his car for 800 euros. I’d like to know- it’s a top-maintained Opel Senator A , built in 1990, whether it’s worth it. D.H. knows someone who consumes gasoline in urban traffic and what it costs in taxes?

I’m a family father of 3 children, I’ve found a jop. I’ll start the job on the 28.2 So 34 km away from me, bus and train unfeasible.Since I’m a truck driver and I can never see if I get the last bus or train,I’m aware of a car.Could now get a car Opel Omega 2 l bj 1995 with 5 months tuv for 600 euronen.Now they don’t want to give me a car for a week for I say 400 euro with everything around it.Now I get a rental car for the week from the company Herz……… The rental car costs 5 days 349 euronen plus what I know everything……….. If I don’t get it clear now the rents me a car for a week for I say 400 euro with everything around it, and a Darlehn for 600 that have rejected it, I have to pay back on every car rental, so I don’t have to say it right now, but I’ve got to say it again a funny thing.

Hello guys… I got a X30XE engine at the Schrotti, which has 143,000 Km on the clock and gives 480 Euronen with a month warranty. As usual without attachments, like LiMa, KK and Starter. Interestingly is that Schrotti pays the old heart with 100 Euronen, if I bring it back to him. So I pay 580 toads and get 100 of them again…. I can’t do a heart transplant on the doorstep, so he has to be a screwdriver with the necessary tools… I start the week already to pluck out everything that doesn’t resist…. Greeting Jürgen

servus, I used the search but found nothing satisfying. had searched for “sleep badly” and I had a lot of nothing better… there was a contribution to the MV6 and as a solution the ignition light switch was called. I exclude this solution option somehow, because I absolutely don’t know what the ignition light switch has to do with a warm motor… no matter how cold it jumps quite firmly, warm organ I’ve been replaced forever… the ignition candles (i.e. a shitty work in the left bank with large fins) and the air filter. air on the wrong way I almost shut out, because I’ve flooded the engine room almost with brake cleaners. only the rubber from the empty running switch seems a bit easy for me and wacky. but also here purposefully spraying with brake cleaners did not change the flow. I have a small theory: motor temperature sensor defective. MSTG thinks the cold machine is cold, it’s cool and it doesn’t work properly.

Hello, I’m supposed to repair the Omega for a well-known…. The track rod heads are completely in the egg (while driving the tires from right to left nd steering wheel has 5cm game) a new endpot should be under, and above all what’s wrong with the diff and or the drive shafts…. at the beginning I noticed that the car in very narrow curves that you drive slowly strongly vibrates and a rear tire is significantly more worn out than the other… Now when driving is permanently such a beating noise to hear.. If you drive quickly, then something cracks really loud… now I wanted to ask how long it takes diff and drive shafts to repair… and what do the parts need to cost the grotti? mfg

Hello Junx I had already written a few days ago because my omi didn’t go on now I changed the following camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor both relays (pink) all together 312 euro (opel) now I signed up at the adac and then I also had to come two times the first thought it was the camshaft sensor therefore I bought it also SOFORT however was nothing to do even with startspray went the car yesterday I didn’t mean to my better half not that the ignition plugs are full of oil because then he would also nciht approach because over the oil then the cylinders would get the sparks and the motor would not even jump on (the adac confirmed the ignition spark io are) now I was just down and on the left bench I turned out a ignition plug with am plugged down was already all clear to me the plug was oilker was full of oil too. now the question is to get the full piece of ignition is also full of me?

Hello guys, recently I am the owner of an Omega B Facelift with automatic transmission. Now I would like to know the following: If the light is switched off, the inserted driving step is shown to me by a small illuminated point to the right of the scheme. If the light is switched on (i.e. at night), only the scheme is illuminated and the light point disappears. The selected driving step is also not indicated by a different colour or brighter light. Is this somewhat stutzig, which of other models I am used to differently. Is that so normal, or is there a mistake here?

Hello,but I bought new speakers yesterday. Previously the original Omega B speakers were in there. The new ones are not the best ones but should be enoughhttp://www.caraudio-store.de/product_info.php?products_id=8121 Autoradio is original CD 500 or so I’m not sure Now to my problem, if you turn the system a bit louder, the speakers sound so terrible. So they sound almost as bad as my original speakers.Only the new ones have 80 watts more power than the old ones. Why is that?Because it can’t be that the new ones are just as bad as my old 30 watt speakers? Is it perhaps due to my car radio? Would I look forward to a few answers =) I’m really disappointed and for that I have also spent 50euro. I hope you can help me further Thanks

Dear Omega friends, I know you’re very surprised about this topic in the Omega Forum. Honestly, I’d be amazed myself if I didn’t know you could help me anyway. I don’t know how the users are in the Volvo Forum, but I know that I don’t really need them, because you can help me 1000 times better. I copy my contribution from the Volvo Forum quote: Dear Volvo Community, I wanted to change the cylinder head seal at the Volvo V40 from my girlfriend. He’s already 250tkm and by the smell in the cooling water and its loss, it’s already indicated. But after I had the head down, I noticed that he has cracks and can’t be used anymore. I’m shocked. he has at least 5, 1cm long cracks and still ran like on the first day. If I hadn’t had a bit of an idea, I wouldn’t even come to the idea of getting the thing down. But now it’s down and I’m looking for a new used cylinder head. Maybe one of you has a clue where I’m coming from? It’s a 1.9 TD4192T with 66kW year of construction.