Category: Smart Forum

Now I have my first problem, not even a week of the car and already it spins. The following: Since this morning, it sounds like my Omega 2.5 V6, Bj 98, Automatic, Autogas does not run on all cylinders. He does not really take gas and shakes himself even a little when I stand at the traffic light or something. Consumption at the level 1.7 – 1.8Ltr, before it was 1.2 – 1.3Ltr. He does this both in gas operation and in petrol operation. n 500 – 800 revolutions. Who can tell me what it could be Gruss Holger

I’m curious if anyone knows/recognizes…

Hello, have put another diff in my Omega B the week, and filled about 1,3l of oil (until it came out again to oil filler screw) now after which I drove a few kilometers (200km), I see a larger part of the oil came out for venting. can someone tell me exactly how much oil get into the lock differential?

Hello, and once again unsuspecting abysses open to me. I had my girlfriend fetch the car from the workshop today. They also looked over it again.The master there fell out of all clouds, allegedly in my car wrong and also wrongly built cross handlebars in front.He only meant that at an OPEL workshop the car would not have been issued!!!???? Does such a thing work at all? Estimate approx. 400 – 600€! e drives me crazy ….. PS. These are the built-in (when buying already in) no idea who screwed up that when.

Hello heroes and heroines. I am again at FOH today and asked for the OPEL part number 93183513, that should be the oil separator kit. According to the spare parts program, there is only one valve, without a description. The same result comes from the Internet shop of Genuine Parts. According to the OPEL software, there is nothing in the explosion drawing of the valve cover. The lid and the seals are there, everything is empty and there is a pressure control valve on the lid? ! I don’t want to experiment now, I’m going to the next BMW dealer who took the order with a smile and tomorrow I get the filter. Now to the question: Does OPEL have something new / or something else? Does anyone have access to the TI’s? Greeting…

Hello, my back door has been rusting for years. We also brought the car to the workshop once to remove the rust there, however, it came after 4-6 months again which is quite bad. Because I have now paid for free 210€. Now I tried it myself but somehow I do not know how far I should go. The metal looks quite clean however there are so small cheese holes in it. What should I do with it? Here are some pictures:http://img262.imageshack.us/i mg262/9048/img0046w.jpghttp://img709.imageshack.us/img709/3695/img0045db.jpg What do you want me to do or let it go on? And how do I proceed from now on? I already got rust blockers…

Hello, I had a ZKD damage and have changed it now. The problem now is that if I start the engine, it starts to hit and knock at some point in the upper part of the camshaft. Hydros we have also changed. Somehow it sounds like he doesn’t get oil at the top. Strangely enough, this always goes away for a short time and then comes back again. Now I just let him turn without valve lid and could then see that out of 2 thick Torx bubbles oil r Is that normal or do not have to come out of the small holes of oil??? Does not otherwise know where the beating should come from. Control times are right. Have we certainly set 10 times again. And the valves should not be, because the beating stops now and then… Anyone else an idea that could help me???

Moin Leutz, nch long, long time I need help or advice again. I can’t get my 2.5 DTI through the TÜV. The headlight adjustment doesn’t fit. No problem I thought, 4 screws and the testicle should be solved. Push cake…The reflectors don’t move in mm! So I went home ( Opel said directly new headlights. I couldn’t imagine, however, that both headlights at once are no longer adjustable in height or in the side direction. Al without LWR actuators, the headlamps can be adjusted wonderfully. If I use the actuators again, nothing happens. Maybe I should mention that I have already changed one ( used ), because one of the motors has regulated directly in the final position ( deep ). After the replacement, each actuator worked. Are the actuators there, or do I just have to leave the spotlights “zero” to Opel? Maybe even Greetz Heiko PS: The plugs on the axles are free-accessible and do not sit tight. The plugs (contacts) look good and are not damp.

Moin moin, it’s time. The “new” Omega finally wants to be discussed in the forum. For a few weeks I have had the problem that he doesn’t want to start from time to time. It doesn’t matter whether he’s warm or cold, whether the weather is wet, dry, warm or cold. Sometimes he runs for two weeks without any problems, then he doesn’t want to do it at all. Usually this is the way it is: turn the keys around, engine runs about 2 seconds (turny) and then goes out. wait, the next attempt runs identically. I try it without waiting, he orgs and nothing happens. Sometimes after a few hours he jumps completely normal again, but sometimes also not… Last time a half-hour disconnection of the battery helped, yesterday not. Yesterday I just turned the key over, got the impulse back, let go of the key again, and torpedoed until it jumped (about 1 minute). It hurt my soul, the starter. The only thing that’s always the same: he doesn’t make a mistake… I’ve read the control unit repeatedly, but without any result. Also the replacement of the ignition strip, as well as the cleaning of all mass contacts in the engine area did not bring any improvement. Does anyone have an idea? Thank you in advance Kai

Hi, since I could not find anything clear in the FAQ or via Google, I ask the question about the distribution of the braking force times here. Is the braking force 60/40 or 70/30 or quite different? And is this distribution equal in each vehicle, or cooks there each its own suppleness. In advance, I thank you.