Category: Smart Forum

I own an omega caravan b 2.0 16v but unfortunately it has almost no power in the lower speed range! now I’ve heard that by changing the lamda probe between 2.0 16v and 2.0 the engine power should be better?!?!? has any experience with it? or what other possibilities are there? does a chiptuning help something? THANK YOU! lG volll_gas_gas

Hello too, I have a 2.2 TDI Vectra EZ 11/2002, unfortunately he suddenly loses power in unregulated distances, you drive with 140 and he breaks away on 80 things. If you restart the engine after a short time it works again. The Opel dealer has already improved and replaced. Without success. Question: Does anyone have a similar problem? Does anyone know advice? What if my Garatie 11/2004 expires? Are there legal bases? I AM FOR EVERY REPLY OR EVERY TIP DANKBAR!!! Thank you very much!

Hi, have nn Vectra C GTS with the Z22SE engine (147hp, 16V, gasoline)…. with Dbila’s dynamics there is now a suction tube with Tüv which should bring the Vectra to 125KW or 170 HP!!!!!! well for 1600 EUR 🙁 I have an automatic transmission, does it work with the tuning then also???? so high the torque should not be, right???? has someone a power diagram???

Hi, I have a few questions in the hope that you can help me. I have a Astra F Caravan first registration 10.1993 with the engine X16 SZ 1. it amazes me that this type of engine is naughty after some documents that I could see this is only listed from 94. 2. Which 2 liters of machine can I “set” in my Astra without conflicting with the pollutant standard. What do I have to change everything besides brakes wire harness and control unit? How does it look with the I can hold points if the 2L engine also comes from an astra this take over or differ the suspensions in the different versions (built-year caravan-Limo) Naturally one says that the kadett is “equivalent” to the astra, have a cadett 1.6 with a C16 NZ engine, but with this the stops of the engine look clearly different. In the first line it is about the C20 NE, this I would like to build, however I am of course for I mfg flo _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Hello everyone, I have a cadet with 1.4 engine 44KW. (C14nz) When I start it, whether warm or cold it just twitches around and has no power. It is practically not mobile. I have read out the fault memory and it spat out error 44 (lambda probe reports mixture too thin)! I have already renewed or changed many things to the test. UA: new candles, new ignition cables, new zunds coil with new ignition module. I checked all cables and plug-in cone, the distributor sammt Fin now my question is what can it be now? I am grateful about every helpful tip. MfG Kaisi

Don’t know if I’m right here in the engine forum. Go around pots. As you can see below, I’m driving an E Kadett Cabrio. Wants to get me a sports pot soon. Just don’t know exactly which one. Manufacturers and so on. End pipes I know, that’s not the topic either. What would you advise me to do? And the most important thing is what’s the difference between group A and group N pots? It’s important to me to tickle out some PS. He shouldn’t be too loud. Not necessarily a brutal roar. It should have a rich, dull sound and, as I said, tickle a couple of hp out of the engine. I have a sports air filter in it. So it works with the inhalation. Fan bender? Pro and Contra? My cadet has Kat.

MANTA A- Engine conversion hi only ma, am the first time with you and eagerly looking for your resonance! I have to convert my A-Manta to a more current machine (zb:2.0l injector(last B-Manta machine) 1.6l 16 V or so in style) . actually wants to change as little as possible on the vehicle and honestly enough to me personally about 100 HP . otherwise the conversion plant becomes too expensive (braking, event. axles , etc.) at the moment he still drives with a 1.9l engine with 90 HP (gasifier) . would definitely like to install an injection machine (wg. G-KAT). who has ever participated in such a project or is familiar with the workload ? as already said , I would like to stay relatively close to the original performance (zz. 90 HP ). in advance already thank you for your efforts …mfG Andreas

Hi! First of all, I want to note the following: do not want to create a dispute here! I drive a Vectra 2,0i 8V and read with great interest various reports, in which different (opel) engines are compared to each other. However, one thing strikes me again and again and that brings me to my question: Why is the X20XEV always compared with the C20NE and not the 150 PSler with the C20NE? (driving performance) I already know the answer: The XE goes a lot better than the NE. You can’t compare the 115 Psler with the 150 PSler,… Also I can’t really understand some myths about the XE: The XE is for its 150 hp like sow. It should actually be called: Opel gasoline engines generally go very well and scatter in the power up and go better than for example the respective VW counterpart. Because: when amn looks at the factory specifications and the tested times in various car magazines (car, engine and sport,…): XE: W test: 8,5 sec. from 0-100 km/h (Vectra 2000) test: 9,2 sec. NE: factory specification 10,5 sec. (Vectra 2,0i with slow speed) test: 9,9 sec. (with SCHONGANG!!!) What about the sports gear?!? We don’t need to talk about the elasticity values: both almost the same. And now compare this with the engine data: XE: 150 hp 196 NM at 4600 rpm. NE: 115 hp 170 NM at 2600 rpm. I still know then: My uncle: Vectra 2000 My father: normal Vectra 2,0i CD construction site exit on d He highway: At ~80 km/h both full throttles up to approx. 150 km/h (with the fastest gear each): The 2000s didn’t get away for a meter. Of course, now you can say: The XE was not in order or not blown free, but must an XE be blown extra free to be faster than the NE?!? What I want to say is this: The C20XE is an excellent engine, no question, but it is overestimated by many and many platters simply the opinion of others, who say the XE I say NO! Even if I should make myself unpopular now. I say that the XE from 0-100 does not decrease my car length! Up to 60 km/h I am even faster with the NE. I don’t talk about the elasticity at all. Again: I don’t want to start a fight here and also do not want to kick on the tie or even insult anyone! Just wanted to make my opinion and experience known. mfg. Markus

Meal all of them, I got a big punch – my Corsa gets the supposedly most robust engine that Opel has ever built… a 2.0 8V, C20NE with 115hp. The search function didn’t spit out anything reasonable, so I ask you again for a short and crisp list of all possible susceptibilities of the engine. I know so far the petrol pump relay – not exactly the worst. What else should you pay attention to? I also let myself be told that the engine is mi t normal gasoline is enough. Is that true, or is super more useful? One last thing: Which oil would you recommend for the engine? So, that’s it, thank you in advance to everyone. Greetings, qp

Even if we had the topic more often… I have to get rid of it. Yesterday I put in my third tank filling Super Plus. And I absolutely think the engine is running more powerful, more splashy, as you always want to interpret it. He speaks faster to the gas, he is anyway fast on the gas but now somehow more clearly. And the power is maybe even higher by that. I pulled it right through in the first and in the second gear, in the first the wheels squebble r likes anyway, but even in the second gear they quibbled quite easily. On dry road noticeably. In the second gear he shot immediately on 100 without conveying the feeling of the rubber band. The power is just in front. So everyone can tell me what he wants, but the engine runs better with Super Plus. I also think that for him this is also healthier, if he already runs better voluntarily.