With the current smooth road conditions I fight with my thick ship on every small incline (mountainy area) > rotating or locking (TC) wheels etc. although the brand winter tires (test winners at the time) are still quite new. Sure – with rear drive you have something to look for, but it is very embarrassing if you play traffic jam drivers. So the question – how can you improve the starting behavior of the omi? Cement bags in the trunk?
Category: Smart Forum
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what could I get…?
Hello, have an Omeba B, year 09.05.1997, 2.0 16V, 100KW/136PS, ca. 160.000km, Lomusine, CD equipment, automatic air conditioning, root wood interior decor. low pollution D4, green plaque, accessories: the front lights (with lens) from the facelift, sports radiator grill. new: windshield with green wedge in summer 2009, track bar in front right summer 2009. Axle measurement carried out.rigid trailer clutch 2009 (not yet used), stands on good Toyo winter tyres on org. Opel aluminium rims. Aluminium rims the I You see on the pictures are especially for sale!!! I know defects: exhaust flex tube is leaky, rev indicator has fluctuations in the stand with warm engine goes up and down between 1.5-2,000 Um./min. Is rather rare of 10 times driving it happens 2 times. only small places rust. would like to sell it Evtl, a small car is enough for me. Drive now anyway only Sadtverkehr. what do you think I would get for the Omega.???
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My old lady’s gonna suck everything…
So finally my heating works again comes the next… He has such a small problem, because he doesn’t keep the oil with him quite as he should. Had thought that it comes from the valve cover seal. Had problems with the side often (driver side) she then made new and see there he still licks. I would now almost suspect that it is the camshaft semmerings or at least one, because on the passenger side everything is tight. The oil loss gets stronger and stronger so that I don’t dare to park anywhere on the street anymore… Have a picture where I made it where the oil always collects first… you can’t see anything from where it comes from. maybe you know a few details I don’t know yet… before I tear everything apart again….
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Start Problems Omega B 2.2 DTI Urgent help Necessary
Hello I’m new here and would need some urgent help. I have an Omega built in 2001 2.2 DTI 145000 km mileage, just 10 months ago that I bought it, ( I really regret it) The car should be cared for (according to the book yes) I of course off on vacation, arrived in the holiday country 3 weeks without problems driven, and 3 days before the home trip engine does not jump on ………. After very long organs yet to start company, I immediately to the FOH the said m the next day I want to make the trip to Germany booms the car does not start at all. Then after a long organ nevertheless still together, then I thought now it would be better to go home to the FOH driving which certainly have more idea. On the way the crankshaft belt wheel breaks me, it had to have it repaired of course cost factor 700 Euro incl. installation. Here just to house anko mmen wheel bearing broken after long research except FOH who wanted to immediately for it 370,00 Euro have found a workshop for 100 Euro incl. material. have replaced. Then to the FOH drove the car to leave immediately 3 days since it sprang very badly, at the beginning the error search started, first the leak oil lines were all changed and then still the fuelilter vented.Motor jumped again at 150,00 Euro again, after about 12 days I have the same problem m again the car starts badly. after about 4-5 hours later. What CAN IT BE NOW ???????
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And again a problem !!!
I came out of vacation again today and what should I tell you ?? again problems with the Omega.. After half the distance I wanted to finally quickly home and wanted to start the car and that did not want.. after a long turn of the engine he jumped on, but unfortunately also the motor electronics light. So call ADAC and read out error memory. Unfortunately the camshaft sensor broken. Can you change it yourself without big problems and if so, how do I make this??? Thank you…
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Strong hum from behind the armpit.
Oh people now most of you are sitting in Oppenheim and I need help… (I wanted to come by on a jump, but that’s not how it will be) I drove a bit into the mountains today with my old lady and now I have the problem when he gets left, which starts (if I drive alone) about 2500-3000 around it in the stern terribly buzzes. It then shakes everything and when you get faster everything shakes even more. All this from the 2nd gang. In the third it comes from 2500umin. n but hardly anything. Where my new boss (whom his Renault was yesterday fresh out of the workshop and gave up his spirit today) and I drove to ner training, all was about 500 around earlier entered. If I drive a straight distance, all this starts only at about 4500 umin or at 150-160kmh. I don’t know what that can be. Have the hardy disks checked, are ok. How can I check the middle camp?? If you have an idea what else it can be please also s The last time I was so proud of my big guy where we made four of a tour of 400km, it was like that. A slight boom from there I am 80% sure that it came from the exhaust. And since I changed the employer I am still this month to learn and must drive every day about 100km .. greeting Stefan
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grievous topic of foreign radio
Unfortunately I find under search many posts, which are already years ago. In my old omi I had a DVD radio, but also no BC, deffekt it is also. Om current Omi I wanted to get myself the CDR500, but all too expensive and SD card or Mp3 can not. Does anyone know a good cheap combination Mp3 radio with which adapters that BC and LFB work? Maybe also DVD with monitor, but preferably not for 500,-€ e.g. e i try to hear mp3 over such a transmitter, but the things rush, no matter what frequency one adjusts. Is there vin to these things also good?
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Heating power B-Omega 3.0 L Caravan MV6 Klimatronic ECC
Hello guys, I’m in despair again:-( I’ve changed pretty much everything that’s still tolerable from the financial point of view. There’s the auxiliary coolant pump under the balance tank, the old one had a wocker, the underpressure controlled coolant drain valve on the front side of the engine to the splash screen and the electrically controlled valve in the driver’s footroom for the convection valve. DO NOT WAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THE FILLERS ARE ALL DEAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I DIFFERENT SOLANGSAM EIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wouldn’t necessarily like to bring the car to the workshop, at the break……. Who can help me now???
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The sequel, a new problem…
Moin moin together. Be a few days I have the problem that my omi runs bad after starting. Let’s call it, it runs only on three cylinders and after a few seconds again quite normal. I changed my petrol pump about 1 1/2 weeks ago. The first days was ok. Now in the last days the engine has the problem that it runs after starting on three cylinders and a few seconds after that runs again quite normal. I noticed that when I started the ignition on I hear a quiet whistling in the engine compartment, which stops after about a second. (The whistling in the engine compartment sounds as if there are any valves coming at pressure). I try something now….. If I only try the ignition instead, I wait until the pump stops running and this whistling in the engine compartment stops, and then the car starts, it runs immediately on all four paws. If I turn off the engine again, wait a minute. a quarter of an hour. Then again. Engine started immediately without waiting, as just described, he first arranges a few overruns and runs only then and then only on three pötten and after a few seconds again on all fours. What can this be? For me this sounds like I have some problem with the forceoff pressure. Can it lie on the forceoff filter, I have still not changed it but already got it and lies in the trunk. Or is it due to the ignition. Or what I would think of, that these click-cuffs of the petrol hoses in the tank are nothing anymore. I had used the old click-cuffs again when changing the pump and could imagine that they are so emptied and that they can’t hold the pressure anymore. Greetings, Holger
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oil at the gearbox,below
Hello, I haven’t been in touch for a long time, the opel has been running quite well until now.But when I saw on the garage floor this morning, there was a little oil stain.When I looked more closely this afternoon, a few oil drops were hanging down at the gearbox,ok I thought maybe I could be the wave sealing ring.But luckily,I still saw that the motoblock was a bit oily at the bottom of the gear flange,so the bonnet was on and looking,after a few minutes I ended something of which I ned w ips what it is, and what it does have.And that is… if you are standing in front of the car, then there is a small box on the back right side of the valve cover, which is connected to a hose on the valve cover,and down there comes a hose out of the other side of the engine, but couldn’t keep track of it because the exhaust manifold was in the way,and this part is oiled and also the hose that goes down is full of oil.I guess it went down from there.now my question. what kind of a box, what does it do, can oil run out there, or are only the hoses porous.has the problem had one time and can tell me if and how to fix it? thank you already for your answers