Category: Smart Forum

Hello dear Opel friends, maybe you have had some advice for me????? I changed from A Omi to B Omi a month ago ( 2.0 16V ), since then I’ve been screwing up a lot more :-(….. I have the following problem, the engine rings quite bright when accelerating from lower speeds. So, I first changed the candles…no success Today I changed the tap sensor and almost broke my fingers… 🙂 but the success also stayed out. Funny about it, when I disconnect the plug from the tap sensor, people after a few seconds the engine light and the engine probably switches into the emergency program…..and then nix rings more, even when accelerating from lower speeds… the engine runs really nice round!!!!! Can you please explain this to me????? Is the ignition somehow switched, or a lead from the tap sensor flips…. or is my ;motor slow?? It’s got a lot of fun now?! Can you tell me about it??

Hello omega fans, I hope you can help me with my problem described below. In the area of the crankshaft belt disc and the oil filter, I have been observing an oily, honey-colored liquid that is thrown through the running engine onto the engine cover below. This leak is only noticeable at a higher engine temperature and it is not as if this leak would persist constantly. It is always a certain “quantity” that is visible on the cover after I had wiped it away before. By the hand of a post I read here about the same characteristics as my omi, I had expanded the coolant flange and reassembled it with new seal – without success, it was all as before…!! I can’t imagine that this is supposed to be a leak in the cooling circuit, because the coolant liquid is greenish and the liquid on the M. cover is as described above “honey-colored”…. Thank you very much in advance for your answers…and in advance of all the happy greetings of the omega fans.

Hello, I would like to buy now an Omega B limousine. Should absolutely be a hand switch and Facelift. Thus the 3.2er falls away already, because it only exists with Opamatic. It should be a V6. Now I have read that the new V6 2.6 and 3,2 pull a good sip more out of the tank. Does someone experience with both engines ? Does the 3.0 (old) consume more than the 2.6 (new) or are about the same. Then I would look for the 3.0er with 211 HP especially because the insurance and repair costs are almost the same. I am a rather quiet driver who wants to go up early, but also sometimes on long distances comfortably with 160 km/h travel. (I know, to this also the 2.2er, but I want to know that I could if I wanted !) Greeting Astra 66

Hello together, have a small problem with my thickness, where I do not climb behind WHY. My fat guy has spent the whole time in the third between 12,1+12,4L/100km, after the penultimate tanking the consumption at once increased by approx. 1.4L/100km to 13,8L and I honestly don’t know why that is now. Maybe one of you has an idea where I should look for it. I have to say that neither the MKL glowing nor the engine shows a noticeable lower power. Is actually as always, the engine runs absolutely clean in the LL and has power like an animal. Only now it sucks like a hole. The blowby system was cleaned in the summer, AGR shut down, the multiram system was repaired and cleaned. Also some seals/simmerrings were replaced, as well as the head seals. In addition, the Lambdasonden were changed, recently again against Boschsonden, no change with the Lambdasonden by RUF and Bosch always the same consumption of 13.8L/100.

Hello Omega friends, have a problem with my Omega B 3.0 Caravan automatic, 150,000 km. Oil loss, exactly where engine and transmission meet. In Annex 3 photos of oil loss. We have photographed the car only from below, without ramp. Only on the two screws, as seen on picture 1, runs oil down. Otherwise everything is very dry, as far as we can see, also around the screws. However, a lot of oil, in about 20 hours the amount of oil, as seen on picture2. Car drives and switches perfectly. Am myself only very limited expert, so please my question to you: What can this be? Will it be enough to tighten or seal the screws? Many greetings O. Attachment: Image1 Close-up Screws, Image2 Oil loss, Image3 Wide-up Screws

After sensor change, timing belt change and wheel bearing and climate compressor exchange as well as new tyres in the rear now the(!): Coolant loss after a short ride. Even after approx. 15 km driving distance the coolant tank is empty! Display in the on-board computer: Coolant level! Then I have already filled up about 2.5 l water already 3 times after each ride Scrap or replace engine installed? I think to repair the head seal (workshop) is not worthwhile at the running performance. But is a replacement motor with 116000 km running power from 1998 for 600 € worth? Oh so: For the exchange I need workshop help – I don’t trust it – ‘(again 700 €) and the next technical test is in September – I am confident , but you never know before what the “ING” finds everything. Thanks for all the hints.

Hello dear community, I have recently the following problem at my Omega B: [Opel Omega B Caravan; year 2001; Motor Y22DTH 120 PS; KM 246,000] – In the display of the BC the following message is displayed again and again: “Attention light range driving light” Then I checked the sensors on the front & rear axle. Conclusion: the sensor at the rear probably could not work anymore, because the “connection rod” was completely germinated. So everything is cleaned up and now everything goes quite easily. The error message comes however still. However, the actuators in the headlights work. If, for example, I load the car at the front, the headlights change. The same thing happens even if I do the back. But the problem now is that the motors simply adjust themselves in the complete standstill. So sometimes up, sometimes down, always back and forth and completely arbitrary. In my opinion, wrong signals arrive at the engines from somewhere. So I guess the message comes to the BC. Now the question, what can it be?

Hello Omega friends, I received the Job’s message a few days ago. I finally managed to install crossbars etc.. I then arranged an appointment in a free workshop to mount the tire and axle measurement. On the occasion I gave the order for the TÜV-transparency. The result was really crushing. At the front so far everything okay, but rear axle……: Axle bearing knocked out, wheel bearing rear left defective, brake lines strongly rusted. Sounds not so dramatish for one or the other, however, for me already. 1. I don’t have a garage, 2. not the necessary clue and tool, 3. and that’s actually the main reason for me, the omi only cost 700.- and that’s just the question, in which relation is the rep. to the purchase price?????? or what do you mean? Until the days Maex

hello, I have a question for you. it’s about my omega. I wanted to go shopping yesterday, only my omega didn’t jump on. unfortunately I had to call the ADAC. was bridged, and swollen there he ran. when I told the ADAC that the battery was new, the yellow angel had the damage of crawl current. something he measured then, and found that there was a whole lot of current flutes, even though the car was off. then he had pulled all the fuses, and found the culprit. it’s safety nr 7, which is only responsible for the interior lighting. over night I pulled the said screening times, and look there, he jumped on without problems. now my question. all the lights go off when locking the car. have checked everything today, like a suitcase room, glove compartment lighting. everything ok. where should be available then, if all lights are out?

Hello… I really wanted to tell you how long I had something about my new timing belt. It was exactly one day. Yesterday was the whole day on the road and the engine ran smoothly. Then I wanted to start again in the evening and at the start he suddenly shrugged around so funny, as if he stopped short at the start or stalls or something. But he then jumped, but he suddenly listened to himself like an old tractor. Significant mechanical noise, running rough, MKL then went on and you have the feeling as if he smelled like sprite or something. Can it be that the timing belt somehow jumped over or something? Of course I have guaranteed on it but as a little skeptic I am afraid that they will tell me now something else that can not have broken everything just to push that not on the timing belt. So the problem is really right during the startvogangs happens and not when he ran away. Now I am rattless, with my nerves at the end, and before all that is wrong with the new motor. So I don’t have to say anything about it.