Category: Smart Forum

Hello people, vehicle: omega B Built. 99 136 hp , climate, 2.0 l 16 v since my operating temperature in traffic jam or city traffic between 95-102 C commuted yesterday I first renewed the thermostat. Vehicle ran about 7-10 km constant to 95 C. When I wanted to park the Tempaartur rose again to over 100 C, fan then went on and then it fell back to about 97 C. Now I thought to renew the cooling liquid and clean the system. 1. Where is the drain screw for the cooling. medium ?? Does anyone possibly have a sketch ? 2. Do I need a lifting platform ? 3. Does anyone possibly have another idea what the reason for this Tempaartur could have risen ? I ask for your Infe, will slowly become mad with the box

good day I’m new here and need urgent help have bought me an omega mv6 bj 95 my problem is that constantly the temperature is too high for example car ride with 120 kmh and temp goes to 100 degrees if I would drive even faster still higher in the city it lies at cirka 95 degrees fan work all no water loss thermostat is new and the cooler should not be too long in fact is a longer highway track with high speed is impossible please h Eleventh for me

Next year the Biospirit share is to be increased to 10%. I have seen a report about it on TV. Apparently old car engines are not tolerable with it. Then the affected drivers have to refuel Super Plus !!! I find this a mess. The old Opel engines, e.g. the X20XEV certainly do not tolerate this spirit or ?? So if my engine gets a damage by this stuff I will sue the state and the EU.

Hello, For weeks my V6 X25XE has been causing me problems, and slowly I am coming into time pressure, as I want to go on holiday with the family in a month and need the Omega. Some things I have been able to fix or exclude so far. Currently: It takes a bad gas, sounds like a tractor. In stand or thrust mode it works, when accelerating you have the feeling it only runs on four cylinders or has ignition oscillators. The warmer the engine gets worse. In the beginning it was only in partl until now: – valve lid seals renewed (oil in the candle shafts) – spark plugs renewed – ignition cable renewed – petrol filter renewed – crankcase ventilation cleaned, as well as black part on the suction bridge (what did it do with the ominous drilling on it??? , still not know what???) Next planned steps DIS module or suction bridge resealed (were unfortunately not fully sealed at the last order Questions: Do the planned repairs make sense? Which seals do I really need? Can it also lie on the exhaust system (incl. crackers)? What about the fuel system? What about the crankshaft or camshaft sensor? AGR valve LMM (no change if I pull off the plug) OK a lot of questions, but I hope you can help me. With all the underpressure lines I’m not sure, is there any picture material or sketches of this here in the forum? Thank you in advance

Hello to each other, I hope someone can help me here. I would urgently need the plug assignment for the controller of the ZV. Which would be good, of course, if someone would know on which pin I have to give an impulse to turn off the immobilizer. Last Wednesday everything still worked, in the evening the car locked off the next morning he does not take the remote control (infrared) any more. So car no longer starts because of immobilizer. So to the FOH. Try a The old one didn’t work either. ZV still works via door locks. Then said cable to ZV control unit cuts through power disconnected after 1min again WFS still inside. After a new consultation with FOH we came to the decision that it can only be the IR receiver in the roof. I also wanted to order immediately, not available anymore! Then I read today in a forum that someone has installed an accessory radio remote control and then a I’m really desperate. I don’t want to give up my 14-year-old Omega so much Thanks in advance Greeting Ratzsing Griewel

Hello, search for me an Omega with the 3.0 machine. Need the car mainly because of the trunk because of my dog, but also wants to be fast on the road! Well a couple of questions and about answers I would be very happy! Thank you already in advance! Micha So search so by Bj 94-97 MV6 211PS automatic, leather, say times so 2000€ and km he has then mostly about 200000km! Are there some offers! Questions!!! Electronics problem???(a well-known one told me that he has many ha t) Running performance??? Consumption 12 l ???(I don’t really care because I had a previous explorer who had an average of 18 l) Driving comfort???(I’ve always driven big cars Amis,Jeeps who had a lot of suspension) Reperatur???(So generally cost, effort etc..) And maybe just so experience short reports who likes!!! Thank you in advance My mail address for those who want to write directly to me!!! [email protected]

Hello am from another forum, but would have asked a few questions about the Opel OMEGA A 2,0i 116PS . What do you have to consider with this one? If you buy it if you buy it. Where does it rust most, are the spare parts cheap? Is the 2liter a worry child? How much km does the machine do? Teeth belt or chain? When to change? Fuel belly? Please just tell me a few things about the Omega A 2,0i Would have a few caravans to choose from. Are all 1992 year.

We have in our family a 99er 2.5td with almost 300tkm. Color Starsilver,Xenon Bose Sound etc, almost full equipment except for leather and automatic. The probs are: all four doors are completely rusted above the windows, fenders should also be treated, brakes should be new at the front, diesel pump licked, now recently parking damage (lantern stood in the way) bumper in the back and boot flap embedded(Could finish paintrs again). What do you think? About a wahsninn’s residual value we don’t need to talk about. Fix the car again completely? Extermination? I kind of hang on to the box, but it’s not mine.

Hello, I’m new here and I’ve tried it before. Probably the topic MKL has already run ten times. Nevertheless, I would like to hear your opinion. I ripped an Omega out of the scrap metal a few days ago, because I thought it was too bad for the scrapping premium. It’s a 2,0/15hp CD Built 04/95 engine is probably an X20SE. He has 104 Tkm on the clock, and the retiree who drove it was rather nice to him. ;-)) You can’t scrap something like that. ;-)) So I did it. But now the MKL is blinking, and the local FOH thinks that he can’t help, because his PC doesn’t find a mistake. But it’s the case that the engine doesn’t take any gas under 2000 rpm, and only runs again at 3000 rpm. However, the idle is quiet at about 700 rpm. But the fuel consumption is really too high at 16l/100 km. So what can I do? Lima was new. Would I be happy if I got help there, because I don’t give it to the scraphead any more. Greetings to all Oms. i- Fans Arne

Hello Leuts, I have a phenomenon since the conversion to LPG that “does not let go” me forward, the problem exists in petrol and gas operation… – so don’t push on the LPG system. During the conversion, the suction bridge was removed and re-assembled (according to the retrofitter he had problems with the assembly) What’s the problem? The vehicle starts cold perfectly. If I want to accelerate after about 150 m then it feels as if no fuel is injected or d the car tries to drive with “air”. So I go on the gas and nothing happens for about 5 seconds or “very little”. The engine sounds hard, however. After that the car drives perfectly again. So the error occurs only shortly after the first start. I suspect now that the suction bridge was not installed correctly or at other places somehow air gets into the system. Oh yes, MKL or so does not shine and error memory gives nothing. Do you have an idea?