Hello, so on a new one, I have the following problem. The belt was skipped and the engine went out a little later. So now I have all the parts new here and installed but the belt can not be properly laid on, the following. If I put the KW on ot (mark on the KW on 6 UHr), then the inlet camshaft can not be set on ot because what blocks, I turn the KW a piece before or back then goes but then the ot is no longer right? How can I get that now, I don’t understand the ot position of the kw wheel once the nut and once the two circles. What’s what about it? The kw disc can only be properly built up so that they can’t get wrong because the screws don’t fit then. Would someone explain to me exactly how I get the pistons or valves so close that they don’t stand in the way and block and how I put the OT on the KW place with which one.
Category: Smart Forum
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What alternative is there to the Omega?
Hello, to Omega I personally appreciate the wheelbase and above all the place (in the 3’er BMW & Co. I get fear of space) – and of course the price. The driving performance is secondary, the 2.0 16V is enough for me personally. Now I want to drive my Omega even further, but also look around for alternatives (the new Vectra and Omega Facelift do not like me). By chance I have seen the current (Facelift) C5, the pre-model I found from the interior not outstanding. This is striking that the car from the place is similar to the Omega, and from the price you get the car new for almost EUR 19,000. The discount battle hits Citroen particularly hard, at these prices, a comparison in the car exchanges creates clarity quickly, dominate the new cars far above the used car, which in the last consequence means the used car as a Citroen can only be transmitted extremely over the price, but the usual flip side of the medal (as in the case of Omega it can only mean driving, driving, driving).
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So now Cali driver: my new 16V & the first questions
Hey folks, since last weekend I’m proud and very happy owner of a Calibra 16V, year 92. The car is in absolute original condition – including the cool, square double pipe exhaust and the ugly Vectra 2000 Gulli cover rims), almost completely stacked, from 3rd hand and has fresh TÜV. I had to get used to the Magmarot, but now it is really cool, because still very shiny and nowhere matt. Apart from that, I noticed that a nice rich red shiny car quite stands out from the crowd. The AB drive from GÖ to B went well yesterday and very fun: the engine is really powerful in the feed. Until 2 months ago I drove Vectra V6 automatic and since yesterday I have the feeling that the Vectra was either very bad or the Cali runs very well. What the 5th gear moves away and above 200 km/h still nice at speed, I found a very impressive. And even though I drove the machine very easily?
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Flashed :'(
and I was flashed. within a closed location with 55kmh(abzgl) where a permissible speed of 30kmh was allowed. now my question.I didn’t get a referral,but only the demonstration,for which I should make information about the travelling person. do I get a point now? if yes, does this have an impact on my trial time? edit: have just found on the page that I get 1 point. has it done with the pukt or does something else come to me (probe time) what actually happens,if I say someone else has driven?
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Automatic gearboxes
Moin together, I counted last time, how often my automatic slide switches and came on five times. Until then I thought I had a 4-speed automatic. Is it possible that it is a 5-speed automatic or switches the transmission somehow still an intermediate gear ?? Also I noticed that with cold engine the transmission takes a very long time to switch (at about 4 thousand revolutions). Once it has switched, it works again normal. Besides, it turns things off before all on gradients somewhat uncultivated. Does an ATF change something ?? what do you have for experiences ? Auto: ́94er 2.0 16V Omi B Limo, Motor X20XEV, 101000 km down, gears I don’t know, but have the “S”pass button on the selector, which is also really fun. Greeting Piglitt
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need new brake discs and shock absorbers
hi, I’ve been looking for new brake discs and shock absorbers (front and rear axles) for a long time now I’d like to get the parts and install them in the following weeks. to the brakes: I don’t need anything special, they’re not supposed to be too expensive. I found this one here: click I can install them without hesitation, or is it advisable? I think the price is ok. for the HA I found the suitable ATE discs on the other side also for 90,-. to the shock absorbers: here it also has to be nothing special. I think the curb absorbers are quite ok. have I found this one here: click 1 and click 2 I made a good choice, or do you recommend to me something else in this price class? many thanks already gruß donsilakis
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V Max Senator 24v
Moin Moin! I have now heard from two different Senator drivers that their vehicles are running more than 270 according to Tache. It was even claimed that this would be with 3 people and full suitcases and still is not the end of the acceleration. Well, since I can’t believe that now, I would be interested in your opinion. According to Opel, the AT 24V 235km/h runs. Can it be that the speedometer is so inaccurate? The vehicles were respectively 3.0 24V engines with automatic transmission and standard tyres. Also on the engine nothing should have been done, just all original Opel 🙂 Greeting, Muckl!
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The hard life of an Omega B
The hard life of an Omega B Hello, I want to tell you something about the suffering story of my beloved Omegas. I think that hardly any Omega has so much life :-)… everything started 99, so my father bought it and pressed it half a year later at a highway exit! Front and back pushed together. Economic total damage 17000DM estimate! He was fortunately not to blame and the insurance paid. I thought, is a pity about the Omega and equipped it for 2000DM with the most necessary new parts. with some welding spat and paint he looked again like new 🙂 Have still had an axle measurement made to go on the safe way, all i.o.! Luckily he had a hanger clutch that took a lot away from the impact… One misfortune rarely comes alone and so I only helped the good 2002 to make a new total damage again! about 4500euro see picture accident.jpg Now the crafting started from the front only this time no money from the insurance. I didn’t want to spend on it all.
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Water loss Omega A 2,0
Hello! I need advice from a few experts… I have a terrifying water loss with my omi. First I noticed when I was standing in front of a traffic light and the temp. shot up. At home then guck, and see… no more water in it. I unfortunately did not have a compensation tank. I filled up about 2.5l water (with frost protection). What repeated after about 500km. What should I do now? I can’t find a place where the water remains. So I go out of it that it burns, which then deuted to ZKD. *heul* He has only 124tsd down, was always driven with Mobil 1 0W40 with regular inspections. And I never kicked him in the cold condition. My FOH said I should expect about 600€ at ZKD. What can I do now to check myself to be sure that I don’t spend a lot of money for free? MfG Daniel
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Problem with brake – TÜV – workshop complaint ???
Tach people, I got a test…. …my Omega now got Tüv (13.07.06 at Bosch Service), but in the Tüv report is among other things “fixing brake in the rear side in the border area”. Here the TÜV report:Link to the picture You can see that the new brakes in the rear work very well, but the hand brake at all net (or only one side)! Now the problem I was on 04.04.06 at “1a autoservice” and had the brakes made in the back: -brake discs and brake blocks in the back renewed -brake saddles in the back made moveable -hand brake pads in the rear renewed -hand brake set Conclusion 466,20 € !! Can I go to the shop again and complain why the hand brake in the back net really funges ?? And should they say that again on Kullanz correct adjust ?? Greeting Omega-tor