Category: Smart Forum

Hello guys and girls 😀 I have a question, I found at e*** replacement distances for my Omega B the question is how do I get out if mine has that at all ? and then I was at Opel who told me that one has to order a final one because nobody can regrind them, but if there is no one can offer it then at e*** ? Can one of me help there. The next problem my sister noticed when one of us drives and one is sitting behind that the aut o swings, is that because I have at the moment a replacement tyre on the back ? a steel rim and on the other side is an alu rim ? or are the shock absorbers lin ? gruss chris

Hello, I bought a 2.5 V6 very cheaply, there are many things on the car that would normally have to be entered in the appearance. But in the new appearance there is nothing inside, how do I know now which tyre size I can drive ? There is only one size inside.

Hello I have already reported here because the footroom gets wet at the passenger side. Did also really find an aquarium at the fan box. This is now sqauber and empty. but if I drive through the washing system or there is strong rain the footroom is still wet (only very little but wet) Does anyone know advice?

Hello, as the title already says, my climate cools only when I choose the position “LO” in the display. As soon as I put even a degree higher, so on “16”, comes immediately warm air and the air conditioning shuts off. Even if it is as now brooding hot in the car. The climate was first cleaned and filled, and in the position LO it cools too, so I can actually exclude the coolant. I just don’t know where to start looking. Can the temp feeler be in the bucket? Gru ß Heiko

Actually everything is good on my Omega. At least now I have enough spare parts in the garage. (see signature). But apparently my omi got wind of it and now wants to get as many fresh genes as possible implanted. After an unsightly trip into a snowweed the other day my horn and my sensor for the light range regulation has said goodbye. Now, however, I do not want to put myself under the car in the weather and start the big crafting. ung “Luminous driving light” flashes up again and again depending on the load condition, outside temperature and driving condition and disappears again. Especially the message comes when braking and in right turns. If the car is fully occupied it also stays at times permanently. In the stand at the traffic light however, I already have an unmotivated up and untapped of the headlights, without the message is there. From this I now conclude that there is no mechanical problem on the sensor, but rather a wobble contact on the plug? Am I right? How the sensor works mechanically is clear to me, but what is it electric? Is it a simple potentiometer or is there a lot of electronics in it? Can I somehow kill it to take care of it intensively in better weather?

hy so I now have the following problem and although if I give in empty run gas up to 6000 turns then my car consumes 6,7 liters and as soon as I have the first walk inside and slowly start driving so around the 10 km/h then he shows me 39 liters to my colleague thinks that the round coil defective that has it ignite now my question I have to pay attention to something when I build out the

Hello friends Now after a long break I have a serious problem I drove with my treasure about 49km only highway then I set my sister at home and drove the way back then I noticed on the highway that the car nciht more runs like this and zack went on the mkl and then also 10sec. later again. then 5 min later (still AB) the car went off. and also immediately again on. my sweat I felt already on the whole body 😉 I went down and stood at the ampel car d ann OFF. I waited until green was tried to make and he went to I had driven on yes only 5 km to at home then I stood again at a traffic light 300m from the house auso went out and nciht again to I pushed him right to the cemetery (do not want to leave him there) and had him to tow away later to home. have been looking here in the forum for possible misplaced then the KWS woken up but did not bring anything my relay for the pump bridged (p umpe ran) but also did not bring anything also changed immediately my exhaust gas return valve since I took it off (wound) now I have read out the errors it resulted following 12 19 53 73 74 now a question if the lmm is defective the car goes on then at all ? because I have now tried so much the car goes on but it sounds as if it is on a cylinder and quassi only shortly before drinking is so it is not really going to drive at all what could it be in order to help I would have been pleased I have not driven for almost a week now and just stare stupidly into the engine room pure love greetings

Hello dear community. I have asked you a couple of times. 1.I could get an omega b limo. 2.Bj:1995 100 kw 175 tkm. 3.innen nicer condition. 4.Heckrollo electric. MÄNGEL. 1.If you make the blinker lever up or down no blinker goes, I make the warning system go on all. 2. He has another month Tüv 3. Both doors at the back rust coach clean only the rear doors. So that was the fun should cost 450 Euro. Ohja he has a 2.0 ECO engine are the what Thank you for the answers.

the time I found the color of the switches and the shower unit in the cockpit a bit boring and old, so I thought that I put bright white LEDs in place of the old pears. I started with the switch for the seat heating and already the first problem. the LED lights up, looks also very nice, but the pear that lights orange when the switch is pressed no longer burns. how it looks everything is quite complicated. has someone d a circuit diagram of the switches? I suspect that the two pears share a pole. it may even be that they are only switched, however, via one pole, because they shine in both directions. anyway, the blue hold with the two pears at three points of current. I simply soldered the LED at the two points of the pear. can it be that the LED pulls the mass of the other pear? I have no ideas anymore. the other orange pear should be dr. stay in. it’s not broken or anything. it has to be interrupted somewhere in the blue hold the current supply. the switch itself works because I tested the lock with the pears from the other switch of the seat heater. where did I make the mistake when soldering?