Category: Smart Forum

Hello Leidensgenossen, had problems with the central locking system about 2 months ago. [url=http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…ioniert-nur-zwischen-t1693669.html?…[/url] At that time it was enough to pop some plastic particles out of the lock (attachment). It went again without problems. Had now the thickness in the workshop for TÜV/AU. A lot was/must be done – the sum however led to immediate nausea. Have it now for 3 days again – since today Central lock again o. function! This time, however, there are no plastic particles left, which block the lock – lock is also fully greased.The following situation: Close lock FT or remote intrusion: ZV without reaction, close windows when open Connect with FB or manell lock FT: only locking tailgate opens (!), if previously manually locked and all actuators make quiet noise – but no reaction to the pins, blinker flashing tailgate with S cleussel: Motor tailgate is operated manually – no electrical reaction/support Then had the door panel off – when pulling the PIN of the driver door the actuator is moved manually. If it is up, it twitches briefly and is pulled down (electrically) about 1 – 2 mm again! Can anyone else help me? Do not want to change the control unit ZV on suspicion, since it was the same symptoms last time, just by removing the plastic particles fixed If so, how much does such a steering part cost me? Can it also lie at the lock of the driver’s door? Thank you already in advance – slowly the omi blows up any financial and fantastic frame! Christian

Hello, I don’t know if you know the problem, at least I know it: Tribune headlights. The glass starts to become so milky-yellow and the light scattering is not exactly the racer anymore. I looked at the headlights more closely, the glass is not a real glass but plastic (my BJ 96 Vf, no! Xenon). The surface was rough, real sprinkles and scratches in it. I tried to get the whole thing away with polish, but the normal for the paint was simply too fine. b I then grabbed the metal/chrome polish, first tested on the blinker, wanted to break nothing for me And look, there was light! I polished my two headlights with it, polished away the top layer attacked and then again with normal fine polish (so the one for the paint) over it. Result: The whole rubble is gone and I have a great view again at night. I wanted to write in here, for all those who have a similar problem LG

Hello! I have an omega a 2.0 limousine built in 1986 with 162,000 on the clock. When driving, a rather loud hum can be drawn from the VA, which can be heard the worst at 70 km/h, so also loudest at the speed! When I turn right and drive, then the hum disappears from a certain right corner. Is that the left wheel bearing? How long can you drive with such a thing? And how much does the change cost?

As the title already suggests, my air conditioning system (not automatic) is no longer working – the control lamp, however, lights up and the ventilation noise changes. I saw in my troubleshooting that a part does not turn at the bottom right of the engine (in front), but the pulley behind it already. In my search for solutions here I stumbled over a “magnet coupling” again and again – I guess it’s this one. And it just doesn’t work. But the fuses are healing. Now I’ve always read something about relays – but I don’t understand it. Where do I find these relays – or better, which relays are meant. I have in the engine compartment and under the steering wheel which. Please no circuit diagrams – I can’t read that. Where do I have to look or wobble to it? Most of all you would help me with pictures – sorry, but with such a thing I am a DAU

Hello I have my Omega B Bj 1994 136Ps 2,0L key number to 20039 to 3 911 Per MKL diagnose 3 times code 12 dan 16/12/16/12 and again everything from the front. in the cold condition is the MKL out. Engine run I.o. warmer condition MKL Fas continuously on and motor run restlessly so it sometimes turns up to 2000 rpm and then lowers again to Ca 900. what is still strange you see on the photos Have discovered a cable it is twisted and its insulation is off. Cable. I took pictures of the beginning and the end and there’s something else in the photo that looks like a plastic tube is broken off where this tube should lead. Ok, look at the photos I brought with me.

Hello, we have been fighting a phenomenon for 2 weeks: If we have driven the Omega warm, it starts to jerk at times. In the stand, the idle speed drops briefly to about 500min-1. We have already replaced the defective seal on the exhaust manifold and installed new spark plugs. The problem appeared suddenly and without recognizable signs. Next, I would accept the fresh air supply. Has anyone ever had a similar problem and can give me a hint? spend a lot of money on useless repairs. Thank you! Greetings Thomas

Hello dear Ommifriends, I have a very important concern!!! Some spasticity put screws under my tires, I didn’t see it and today my Ommi with 4 plates feet was there!!!Now my question: Do the 5-hole steel rims from the VW Passat (tire size 195/65 R15) fit possibly also on the Omega B? Can the tires incl. rims snatch cheaply,which would be cheaper like a repair of my tires!!! Please urgently for answer,as I have to know until Friday!!!! Thanks in advance already!!!