Meal, the following problem, the fan for the interior only works sporadically. If the car (motor) is running, then the fan does not work. If the car (2.0l problem) simply goes off while driving, then the interior fan goes on. So, tap that it will be an electrical problem. Backup? Cable breakage? Does anyone have a tip on where to search? I actually exclude fuse, because the fan is running when it is running out. Meanwhile, however, it is no longer running… A chso, is a 2.0l 136 HP Omega from 1998 (from my dad) with about 260,000 km.
Category: Smart Forum
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is it broken by the curly or anything else????
Moin, that my cracker is broken I know,but now it’s jerking and the grandma doesn’t pull right when I give it gas, it jerks it comes after several gassings from the quark, the shift stick vibrates partly strongly when starting up.Does that have to do with the cracker or could it be something else?Sometimes it comes to me that he doesn’t fool on all of them?????About your help I would be very happy again. Thanks in advance and many greetings from GE- TOWN!!!
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Oil and oil exchangeinterval
Hello, since a few weeks I have a new old Omega with the 2.2 16 V-machine. When the FOH was bought an oil-chewsel was carried out. According to the note in the engine compartment, Mobil1 0-W40 was filled. The next change is indicated after 30,000 km. Is that correct? I have so far always taken 10 W-40 with my old Omegas. Change-interval 15,000 km (but have always driven 20,000 km). So can I continue with 0-w40 and 30,000 km?
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List of abbreviations
Hello together, I have a very big problem Today I noticed a rubbing on the driveway of the BAB2. Driven directly up on the stand strip to avoid worse, but it was already too late… When checking the feet and tires a lot of me, that at the VA passenger side suddenly 3!!! screws were missing. All together tore down !!!!!! I almost suffered a shock Direct the ADAC called, who towed me also then promtly, since a ride with it is impossible. Now ste Is the question, how to the executioner can this happen???? I have always tightened all screws with a torque wrench in my workshop. So they can not have been overstretched!?! Theoretically. Also, these screws have been on the rims for a year, at that time bought extra new because of the cone waistband. There was also nothing noticeable, because something was wrong or similar, already a few thousand km with them…. Now a Hallennachb told me ar, that it might be possible that the rim could be broken and that the balance would increase the force on the screws and thus break. However, I can’t really follow that, although I’ve heard of something like that before. What do you say about it????? Fortunately, this happened on a driveway and in the traffic jam, not to think out what would have happened if everything had been free. That would certainly have brought me to the TV How can something like that happen??? rims are original. O pelfelgen, 225/45/17″ with 20mm track plates per front side. Greetings
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Time delay relays
Hi, have seen in the circuit plan that the headlight washing system is running over a so-called ‘time delay relay’. What exactly does this have to do? With my headlight washing system, there is no ‘time delay’: if I use the window washing system when the light is switched on (it happens more often at the moment), water is sprayed directly on the headlights, and immediately and for as long as I have pulled the switch. That can’t really be right, think e me, because by the fact that the headlight washing system has completely a lot of liquid out I have a animally high water and disc cleaner consumption and also the whole front car is so slow with window cleaner, so that it starts foaming with every moisture of itself. Greeting, guitarno
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Motor damage X17DTL – Age weakness?
After a loud noise in the engine compartment (sounded as if I had switched off) the engine went out. After checking the timing belt (was healing) and the camshaft, I tried to get started. It also sounded as if he was coming back (starter turned), but at the decisive moment nothing happened. I called the ADAC, but the good man gave up after about 20 minutes. He continued to work. He finally dragged me to the next Opel workshop. The first diagnosis was: 4 tilting levers broken. Next they wanted to take the cylinder head down. I asked that you check the settings of the tooth belt beforehand. The next diagnosis was: timing belt settings okay, valves not damaged (just), 4 piston eaters, 2 piston rings broken and damage to the belt. On the question of the cause, I could not be informed. Just one guess: Diesel pump defective – too much injected – valve did not open – tipping lever broken. Wouldn’t the engine have had to turn up before the exit? I have doubts that the damage is directly related after I have heard that with a colleague (same machine) also 2 tipping levers would have said goodbye. Is this age weakness? Who knows each other with this M otor out? The repair costs are high, a replacement engine is too expensive, a used complete replacement engine (e.g. from an accident car) I could not find so far. Who has a complete engine with diesel pump and turbocharger lying or can tell me where I can get one?
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x20xev more Ps and more torque
Hello, How to get more power/torque into my engine? Have already got a K&N air filter in it, Brisk tuning ignition plugs and a sports exhaust system from Kat von Bastuck on it. Brings about 20 hp. Just think if I don’t get a chip, camshaft and a Power Bost valve. Maybe I’ll also have the displacement increase you know someone who does all this (cost-effective, with guarantee) you have experiences with it. Would my vehicle also like to use a Do you know any addresses in the vicinity of Frankenthal and Mannheim? My vehicle (purchased recently) Opel Omega B Caravan 2.0 16V 100kW/136Ps Year of manufacture: 1/99 Edition 100 Tyres 225/55 R16 94H
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control unit programming+tuning
can you connect to a normal pc the control unit there is any software (scnetting point cable) I can read and burn pretty much all eproms and eeproms but would like to start with a complete control unit because I am not yet fit with the control technology in the kfz range or do you know someone who has already dealt with it or dealt with it earlier ?? happy about every contribution no matter in which form MFG tino1905
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Idling problem warm – Rugging in case of humidity
Hello people, have the following problem with the Opel Omega A 2.6 sportive: He tolls up and down shortly before death (about 200 revolutions) he catches himself with shaking and then turns up to 1500 high – then falls off immediately again. In this condition you can watch the tank needle, since this is the case the consumption has doubled. In the cold state it runs without problems. Attention, it only makes when it is warm. As long as the engine does not make it cold. Another problem is that he In wet weather it has a jerk at full gas. As if it runs only on 4 cylinders or the cylinders only half ignited. Lambda probe is new. Air mass meter replaced. Injection nozzles changed. Intake bridge seal renewed. He also pulls no wrong air. As said so he no longer consumes (if I remain something on gas instead of idle), therefore question, does the temperature sensor have an influence on the idle or is possibly the throttle flap pot defective? Does someone know similar Probl eme, has 183000 km is a C26NE hex with dual ram, 5-W40 oil.
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New HU 9/2011
So people I was gard to HU/AU completely WITHOUT flaws the examiner has taken the whole cart out of vein trunk etc. pp why ? He was looking for rust… He found no Oton : quite rarely seen an A Omega that stands so well there. The A is just a quality car :-))))) The picture shows my special pilot bearing puller ( 16 heavy load dowels)