Category: Smart Forum

The Ommi has to go to the TÜV next month and there are finally new problems again. Friday went after the start suddenly the airbag lamp again. At home then the China crash and the following error message: OP-COM – KW82 communication window> 2002-Omega-B-Karoserie-Airbag KW-82 protocol recognized ECU ID= EF,24420101,s0067644,4425J9,1701, number of errors : 2 00044 – control light signal too small or electric circuit open Not available. 00095 – child seat detection sensor malfunction Not available So both not available bugs deleted. Airbag lamp off!!! Today started, lamp back there!!! Chinakracher says: OP-COM – KW82 communication window> 2002-Omega-B-Symbolserie-Airbag KW-82 protocol recognized ECU ID= EF,24420101,s00674,4425J9,1701, number of errors : 3 00095 – child seat detection sensor malfunction present at this time 00037 – with driver belt lock resistance – do not start the resistance again.

Hello now, before the 3rd time a cooler will be burned I wanted to hear your opinion. And indeed within a month already 2 X the tube which goes from the cooler to the thick main hose is torn to exact the same place. the first time OK under the motto can happen, the second time now exactly a month later again! The cooler is neither under tension, nor does it get vibrations in any form. Nevertheless, about 2 CM behind the hose clamp so just where the hose ends and the plastic tube starts from the cooler is a crack in it. And before I hit a new cooler again, I want to know what that can be, not that after a month is the same again. Do you have an idea about that? To answer a question directly, I don’t know if he had an accident and has to twist through a body, I have bought the car at an Allmalach to you as reportedly accident-free! And can you see under there nothing unusually on the exhaust on the underfloor, I don’t know if he had an accident and then the dealer doesn’t have to say anything about it, but if an Unmalach to you as an accident free!

Moin Opelgemeinde To my regret, I have to tell you that my oil control light after a set-up (VA -3 cm) played a bad stroke. She just reported the oil pressure loss too late after the oil pump’s oil intake tube had been broken. I first heard a ringing, then a knocking heard, while braking (automatic) he went out immediately and the engine control light went to . Read itself no more. So now the question to you , cylinder head exchange or just the camshafts ?? Are the stored or beeched. Is that still worth it ????From in the january only 1200euro put in my thick , almost all concealed new .head planned ,new curved ,brakes , track rod heads and wheel bearings new . I am a bit headless at the time and driving now Renault Twingo ,scham” but the only one I could raise within 2 days .

Hello again so it’s all about that with my omi for some reason on the left side completely the bottom side of the doors was/is so also wet in the back. Got seals controlled everything ok soft and almost like new ! just down at the felt everything wet even the speakers left were wet and therefore they just don’t go because when I connect them the radio with Protect refuses and nothing goes further where to the Gaier can come from. Ps: I tipped 3 liters of water into the drain everything has run out under the car so it can’t come. pps: on the picture you see where it is wet and for safety where it is broken (on both sides the ornamental strip is bent but only left is everything wet if that should be decisive) thank you for the answer

Meal, I am now for about 3 months and 10,000 km owner of an Omega B, 2.5l, 6 cylinder, diesel. The “seller”, probably an Opel-screw, told me that it is normal that the Omega takes relatively long to start. With increasing cold it took longer and longer – until he suddenly would never want to. Engine was after a short purchase still at operating temperature, battery diligently driven the starter, but engine did not ignite. Then yesterday again the same. I then clamped a starter car to the battery. As a result, the starter turned faster and the engine was perfectly started within a second. Now my thesis: Although, according to the manual, the installed 70 battery is correct, it can not be that I better install a 100 amp battery? The condition of the battery is good. Charging condition is also good. Best regards, the Oppa

The data: Omega B V6, Motor Y26SE, Bj 2000, Gearbox AR25 KZ DN, mileage 108500 km Last the vehicle was 6 months without moving it. The problem: In the cold start everything is good. The gearbox hardly switches through noticeably all gears cleanly. The whole thing up as well as down. Kickdown also no problem. With increasing temperature (so from 70°) there are switching problems between 2 and 3. When switching up it turns up partly high than if it were in idle. If one is short of the gas, it switches. Shutting down is then sometimes very roughy. It comes as a result also the MKL. Reading from the fault memory with TECH2 brought only the message “Unknown error” the following has been made so far: 1. Oil change with filter change. The oil was brown, roch almost ranzig but did not burn and had the appearance as if it had the full 16 years behind. Both on the magnet as well as in the two oil trays no traces of Spänen or other parts. Only light sludge from the Abrieb. After no improvement. After 100 km, the gear change has not stopped the oil band again neutral again.

Hello everyone! I’m thinking of buying myself a senator next to my Omega Mv 6 and Calibra, but I have some questions. I’ve already used the search function and looked through it. Unfortunately, I only found something suitable. That’s why I’d like to write here. I’ll just count on : 1. Does every senator have the adjustable chassis? 2. Can you just change the Irmscher bumper at the front, so drive with a normal and without registration? (Because grill and headlights are a little smaller) 3. Can you easily retrofit spotlights with windscreen wipers? Find that this looks very good on the car. Is there anything else I should be careful about? Would you like to buy me 204 HP switch. MfG

Hello thanks for the tip with the charging air hose Kurt So as described I converted the engine. Engine runs like a bag nuts. No error in the memory. Had thought of the diesel pump but boschdienst meant then it would be : 1. under conditions leaking 2. bad start 3. qualms at the start or while driving all 3 things hit not to be changed agr Lmm 4. injection nozzle needlehub sensor when I plug off runs even worse so he seems ok to be crankwave sensor of automatic and switch same?? the engine was from an automatic and have now converted to switch and also my switch cable tree laid e technically no faults. then I solved during ongoing operation diesel line also ok you notice that every cylinder works many times also a compression problem am a week reading on the pondering how to test that still can be done

Moin dear Omega community, as the title says, my cooler has just burst. Where? Of course on the upper tube, the typical place. The Bakelite has blessed the time. Can I not use it for a moment. Maybe there is one of the Berliner screwdrivers in stock for a 2.2? May also be one from a butcher. If you have to pick up again tonight, you need the omega, otherwise don’t come away at night. If you have one over, please report, go now to the 2 meter – short sleep.

Hello, would like to introduce me briefly 😉 I am the Thomas 36 years old and drive an Omega B 2,5 MV6 Bj. 95. For a few days the idle speed is very different from my Ommi. When you start the car is mostly everything ok, then you start driving a few kilometers the engine suddenly to turn very high, sometimes even up to almost 3000 turns which then very hesitantly go down again. The whole comes very different and mostly so I think only over 90° engine temperature. Vlt. knows one the problem…… I was clean nevertheless cleaned it, all cables checked, air quantity meters also clean, throttle flaps look good, nevertheless already clean, further does not come to me any more ;-( Would be grateful for any help…… Greeting: Tommek