Category: Smart Forum

Hello dear omega riders, after my omega got through the Spanish holiday perfectly, I have a new big problem. When I bought the vehicle, I saw from the tires that it needed an axle measurement. I then installed new crossbars, spring legs, track rods, cathedral bearings and stabilizers. After that I had the vehicle measured. When I had picked up the vehicle the steering wheel stood strongly to the left, which I immediately claimed. We then put the car directly on the stage, the steering wheel with the water scale straight and blocked and we had to find out to our astonishment that all the values had voted almost 100%. Fall, track and run were top! What struck me then, when I brake on the highway and hold the steering wheel firmly, pulls the steering wheel immediately to the left, (brake forces are on both sides the same). Let the steering wheel go and brake the car remains in the top track, but you can see how the steering wheel turns a little to the right. If you lose the brake it can turn off the side of the wheel, the tires are absolutely wrong to the left. If the tires are still checked. But the tires still have to be checked.

Hi, my name is Alex and I’m new to this forum. I’m currently driving an Opel Corsa D with 70 Ps from 2013. I’m 38 years old as a and living in Horst/Elmshorn. I/we are my fiancée and I’m looking for a Zafira for our little family consisting of my fiancée and my 3 stepchildren. Looking for the right Zafira we’ve come across the Omega, an old childhood dream of mine. I’ve dreamed of having it since the Omega there. But I/we’re a little uncertain and therefore I’m going to turn to the forum: I have a few questions to ask: does it make sense to get an Omaga, or is it just too old and are therefore the repair costs simply too high? how reliable is the one-size battleship of Opel ? how much should you spend on it to get a nice Omega and reliable one? We’re looking for an Omaga with automatic and as diesel as well as we’ve found the nice ones in the week.

Hello all, I’m looking for a copy of the vehicle license or letter for an Opel Omega B Limo, Motor Z22XE with first registration after 09/2000. I hope someone can help me here and mail me a copy, the part with the technical data, license plate name and so on can of course be blackened. I would need this for a registration with the TÜV

Hello people, this morning after motor start suddenly batteie control light on,and a little weak have given some gas around 5000-6000 UPM fixed from 4500upm light is very weak and between 5000-6000upm extinguished!!! gas released comes again,motor out of again same… a friend said it is LMA diode,controller or mass point to motor…! What is defective jetz LMA or massepunk?? LMA 100AM (BOSCH)I bought for 85€ with guarantee from schrotti.For the installation he wants to have 30-40€ it is good price? Thanks for your answers!! MFG Reflection

Hello, I had the last winter wheels mounted. At the back the track plates should be removed. There are 20mm plates, these are attached with screws(17 SW) to the vehicle, then the wheel is screwed to the track plate. Now the impact screw has not been fixed correctly and on both sides is each one screw completely round (it was then tried with a 16er nut the disaster still to avert, but also that went wrong). The 2 screws are now completely round. Now everything has been screwed again and the winter wheels are mounted so. How could I remove the track plates best? My solution would be chiseling on or with a slip the head of the round screws (and a part of the distance disc which is then in the way) flex and then remove the plate. To chisel however, I think that such blows, which then also hit the wheel slash is not good at all. If that works with the impact disc and then you take off the disc, is still the question if the screw can be turned off so easily from the wheel scar. However, for example, I would have made the most sense of the tension.

With my Omega B 2,0 16v Bj. 99 with gas system + ECC the heating is only moderately warm . I already changed the WT (Thank you Kurt Berlin for the good instructions ). The heating now delivers warm air a little earlier , but at minus degrees it is still only moderately warm in the car . It does not matter whether the temperature is at 21° or on HI . Did the engine warm when the heating is switched off and the heating is then switched on the engine temperature goes back . So it can not be in my opinion also the valve . I also synchronized the flaps . Maybe someone has a tip for me . Greeting Achim

hello you love , have the problem since Thursday angriert me my dick , following was day practice down all io , evening to work he does not jump on , so much more not , next morning jumped than had been nothing , in the evening even without problems early home everything without problems , so and since yesterday noon again only leiern no jump on , in memory nothing is stored , it can act here a problem of dis-module or there are other possibilities where I can look , would be grateful you for tips since I have found in the treat also not so of the judge , gruß der micha

Hi, is it the xenon unity or even only the lenses from my totally defective Hellas into still new quality depos, so that I have good luminosity. Think that then the modest tea light of this depos is finally eliminated as far as this has succeeded. Oh yes, the discs of the Hellas are after repeated grinding and polishing over the years no longer usable. With reflectors of the main light the chrome is 30% off according to DEKRA. mfG Holger

Hello together, has there an information to and knows under which circumstances this FC is set? I am just a little unsure what exactly is meant by it. Perhaps I “produced” the FC myself with the last ECU changes. For my understanding Raildruck has nothing to do with the oil pressure, that just makes me a bit perplex what the “rail oil pressure” should be. Please ignore the first error code, which has been paralyzed since I put my ABS itself through a wrong variant coding. See here:http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…rung-ich-hab-mist-baut5607276.html Achso, the FC P1190 appeared at full load in the 5th gear at approx. 3000 rpm. Engine was out of power, completely gone. I then restarted it and continued. Thanks and greeting, Thomas

Hello to everyone. Sorry for my yazy. I don’t speak English, and it uses Google translation. I have to help with my Opel Omega 2.5 DTI automatic. What is the air throughput should be in idle when the engine is warm. My OP-Com shows 240 mg/str, I think it is very small, and an increased fuel consumption of 13 liters with a quiet drive. I don’t know if I should change LLM. And if it is possible to put it to another manufacturer, not the original GM? TK I live in Belarus and we don’t have anywhere to buy LLM and as far as I understand it is very expensive. Thank you for your interest in my problem.