Category: Smart Forum

Hello, I drive a Opel Omega A Caravan built in 1992. When I drive with many consumers (light, blower, windscreen wiper, etc.) all control lamps go after a short time, the light gets darker and when the car is turned off it must be bridged again. I bought a new battery (the old one was definitely defective), it went well for two days and the same started from the front. Charging voltage of the alternator 13,1 V, the new battery was then defective and changed . Now the second new installed and after two days the same. alternator taken from the scrap and built in, charging voltage 13.6 V. It went a day well and again the same. Can now also the second battery, three days old also already be defective due to the low charging voltage? Does the charging voltage of 13.6 V not suffice? Can it also be another problem with the electrics? We did not measure the charging current of the alternator. Who can help??? Or has the gle I have had experience and know a solution?

moin moin, was a little faster on the road today, highway dry & free, then wanted to turn on the cruise control at ~200km/h but the thickness ignores that, only under ~140km/h can I activate the cruise control, is that normal ?

Hello together, I’m back again. Or rather, my Omega is already having problems again. Since I was so well advised by you last time, I’ll get back to you again and hope you can help me again. I’ve already read through a lot of posts but somehow didn’t find the right one. But now on the subject. My engine block lamp lights up permanently. Yesterday I was at the Opel dealer in the neighboring town. Actually because of another problem. longer sliding operation and then light gas give some of the gear lost and either after a short time or S-key hit the gear again with a jerk. However, the lamp also started with the car and fork key. Then the Omega had no more power and I had to turn off the ignition first. After the engine started again everything went again. The lamp was off again and the Omega switches again. Since I have 100,000 km on the clock, the Opel dealer recommends He didn’t want to promise me that the error was fixed. I nevertheless agreed. The fun cost was € 327,00 (Aua). So far I have only driven about 40 km and had no gear loss. But in order to be able to make a precise statement I have to drive a few km. To the engine block lamp the Opel workshop said: Probably one or both lambda probe (n) is defective. The values would change too little. can not reset the error without a new Lambda probe and would first replace the one and then possibly the second probe and then reset the error. Since the workshop requires € 197.00 per probe without installation, I first refused and thought about correcting the error myself. What I have learned so far: – there would have to be 4 probes (per cat one before and one after) – the 2 probes behind the cat are probably not quite so important (only for finer adjustment) – al 4 probes are identical (possibly a cross exchange is possible) – it would have to be a 4 cable probe – a probe varies depending on the supplier and manufacturer on the Internet from approx. € 55 to € 110 (Universal probe to Bosch probe) – the Bosch probe has the Bosch number: 0 258 006 176 But now finally my questions: – do I read my previous information correctly? – how do I find out which probe is exactly defective? (can I measure the probes with a multimeter? If yes, where and what exactly?) – does e s Makes sense to exchange both probes in front of the cat? – which probe is recommended, which rather not or are there no differences? Very important for me! Does someone have pictures where the probes sit exactly and where they are plugged in??? In advance I thank you and hope you can help me further. Greeting – Michi

Hello OpelianerI Have the following Proble. Drive an Omega 2,2 L gasoline, 4 turquoise, automatic. Limusine. As with us starting from ^15.11. driving with daylight law is I wanted to convert the OMI to daylight, but finder did not find the plug for the relay. have already disassembled the whole right side but found no plug. Safety is to their place No.8 cable goes away, aber plug find Njente. who can give me information for this vehicle where the plug is located. An old Opel Leiden. de type and each vintage is different. it is to stick up trees Claudius1944

Hello, I had the main thermostat changed at my Omega 2.5DTI and still have problems with the engine pumping it takes a very long time until it has reached operating temperature. After 10 minutes drive the pointer of the display starts to hike. I got the old upgraded thermostat from Opel but that has destroyed the installer, has jumped out of the lead I wonder if he has installed the new thermostat properly. How warm will he get with you my safft on cal like today 80 degrees. Greetings Andreas

Hello dear community, I have the problem only after exchange, that my brake (belay & disc new) pulls when braking to the left. It occurs once and then not again. Sometimes it brakes as if it were throwing an anchor and sometimes you have to step in a bit harder. I changed the carrier (right side) for the pads also yesterday, because the floaters had quite a lot of play. I would have thought that the surface has bent despite brake paste. But that also does not seem to have been, d a that is still there. Brake system was also vented. There is no game in the crossbar bushings available. In my oil cooler action in April 2012 I saw porous connections on the vacuum system. And in a thread here I read that it could also be because of it.www.motor-talk.de/…/…effort-little-brakepower-t3346746.html?… And the reading” Now I help myself” does not help me so much Would it make sense to exchange the HBZ?, or if necessary di e vacuum hoses? Advice requested Greeting Opel test driver

Hello together, I already had an Omega B about 6 years ago. At that time a 2.5 V6. Now I am looking for a car in order to be able to complete my travels in the summer. I remember the Omega again. Now I have found the following offer, which I definitely think is worth mentioning.Click me flaws? I only noticed the small dent in the front of the bonnet. I find that not so bad, given the probably very good residual condition. (If you have a problem with this.) You see more, please tell us ) The car is probably full of checkbook. Teeth belts were supposedly renewed at the end of 2010. If I remember this is due every 4 years or 60.000km (which just happens first). So seen the ZR would be still good until the end of 2014. Color and the small aluminium rims I find quite chic equipment is ok. What I like is the automatic. Of course it will be a real cucumber, but for long motorway rides it probably doesn’t matter. I wil The performance of the car doesn’t matter, I finally have my BMW 5, which has enough of it. What do you think? Good offer or much too expensive? I want to get rid of the car as much as possible without (large) loss. Then another nice holiday and thanks to you for your opinions!

I have a problem, maybe it’s not a problem, but I’m not so sure. I noticed today with my omi that when I drive and let it roll out, which in the MID with usage starting from speed 80, the consumption slowly from 3.6l to speed 0 with usage 6,2l , rises without that I give gas. Is this the motor brake or how can I understand that? After 5s then again at speed 0 1,5l consumption is normal. Over 80km/H everything is OK, i.e. without gas give consumption 0.0l under 80km/H fän Is that supposed to be like that or what could be broken?? Greetings and thanks in advance Bluebyter

Hello, have a big problem with my Omega B, BJ 1998, x20xev. The Omega always goes out after 5 minutes and starts again after 20 minutes. The error occurs even if it runs in the garage in the stand gas. I had the error read out and it should be the crankshaft sensor. I changed the crankshaft sensor and the dis ignition module. Unfortunately without success. I noticed that the MKL lamp emits a flash code, 1, 3, 7 and that also without a plug-in bridge. lying on a relay? Or ..? In advance thank you