Category: Smart Forum

Tach, we have the 1.8 (Z18XE) in our Astra G (Bj 2004) and are now refueling E10. Doesn’t seem to be a difference. The car drives my wife, I only rarely and anyway only in the city. I imagine that he is not quite as sparkling anymore, so he has a slight loss of performance. Can that be that you really feel this at E10? How does it look with consumption? We drive too little (so far) to draw on own numbers. If he has less power and higher consumption (so that the supposed consumption) In the case of the lower litre price, the savings are de facto none at all), and then we move back to E5.

Hello. I drive a c20xe engine in the Astra f. It is an Motortronic 2.5. Runs almost without problems BUT. It needs on 100km in normal driving mode 12-13liter. That’s way too high. It sometimes smells like gasoline too. Then when it is warm and bitsl and you try to start it, it takes a little longer until it starts. But of course I didn’t always have the error memory read out. Nothing. Then I was on a test bench to make a lapa fully test if it is too But if he doesn’t run, the mechanic meant. What can that be? If he doesn’t run too fat. And no gasoline doesn’t run out. I’d be very grateful about a few tips that I can do. Because the fuel costs are very high. lg

Hello, I’ve been driving a Corsa C with the 1.2 liter machine (75 hp) for over a year now. Due to the low cylinder capacity, fast speeds of 4500 – 5000 rpm are achieved during the fast acceleration (Easytronic). Otherwise, the 75 hp is not felt by the low cylinder capacity and the relatively high weight of the Corsa C. Of course, this makes me feel like I have an engine that may have a low lifespan due to the high speed level. it belongs to this engine in the Corsa C experience or something about its lifetime ? Please do not guess based on the above mentioned facts (hubspace, speed), but only real ‘feelings’ or experiences. ac

Hello dear Opel connoisseurs, I have the z22yh direct 2.2… The high-pressure pumps problem is really an impudence of Opel and for me the reason never to buy an Opel again. On the actual questions: Can I draw conclusions on the production year of the pump based on the number on the pump? With the pressure regulators this is possible based on the last 5 digits of the TM number Thank you very much

Hello together, I suddenly had an extremely undisturbed idling speed at my 2006er-Opel Combo 1.6CNG (engine Z16YNG, similar to the Z16XE) (the day before he drove 300 km without a complaint) and a very jerking way of driving in the domestic 30s zone. Shortly afterwards the engine control light went on, so I drove directly back home. The car then had a very clear speed variation in the stand (between 400 and 800 rpm again and again up and down) My Blue Tooth-OBD2 device then revealed: And in a second selection process it was also noticeable that the jerking did not change when I switch between petrol and gas operation. (Until now, it has always been the case that when an ignition module, which is only noticeable in gas operation, and I was able to drive home with petrol still free of friction – because gasoline just ignites significantly easier than the natural gas with its 130 octane …) In the hope that the 300 codes will say goodbye by themselves when d ie P0105/P1105 cause is fixed, so I started with it. First the MAP sensor checked, but unfortunately it did not seem to be the cause (because it would be easy and cheap to replace). The 5V were attached to the plug, and if you give negative pressure on the opening, the voltage falls on the middle contact – so as it should be. So again installed. Next I removed the throttle valve and cleaned thoroughly, which was not even so dirty. Also the blow-by- Drilling seemed to be still free. I then, simply to scrape out existing oxidations from the potentiometers, a few times completely opened and folded. Then I installed them again. After that I reset the error codes, and started the engine again. The idle fluctuations were gone (so the action with the throttle valve might have brought something). But occasionally there are still clear ignition oscillators. That’s why I then detonated the spark plugs. ut. All four look almost the same, just like on the attached photo. The candles have been installed since about 15 TKm. These are metal droplets at the top of the electrode. Does this fit together? Due to the problems with the intake too much air ? too lean combustion ? candle starts to melt? I have now ordered new candles and for safety reasons also a new ignition module, but am I unsure whether I have cleaned the problem with the throttle flap + new candles sustainably eliminated the problem? GR and secondary air problems should not occur with this engine (a lack of AGR and a lack of air mass meter), right? And the injectors will not be the case if gas and petrol (with their own injectors) show the same error behavior? What do you think is a sustainable repair, or should I check other things?

I have now looked at various tests and reports on the new 1.6 SIDI. But somehow it makes me feel that the engine doesn’t make any economic sense for the buyer at all. I am speaking very precisely about the fact that it should “fuel” Super Plus. The consumption, exhaust and elasticities look quite ok at first, but we are talking here about a price difference of about 10 cents per litre at Super to Super Plus and even 15-20 cents for E10 to Super Pl So let’s take an Astra with 56l tank and the average ride with 15000 KM mileage per year. Thus, only the fuel results in higher operating costs of around 250€ per year compared to a current EcoTec. At 20,000 KM even the 2.0 CDTI may have almost amortized without counting it right now. Of course, according to the operating instructions, it can also be refuelled with super. But who guarantees me that the engine then after 4 years not the first n has engine damage? According to experience reports, the consumption of a Cascada with normal super is combined at around 9 liters. But that doesn’t really bother me now. So where is the argument for a SIDI?

Hello, my car (Zafira A 1.6 Bj 2002) had high oil consumption, therefore all seals were renewed, also with one cylinder very little compression. The piston rings were therefore all renewed. It looks like the engine also does not lose any oil but simply consumes. I thought the oil consumption will settle after a certain time again into the normal range, but after more than 2000km the consumption is 1.5L/1000km (according to manual 0.6L/1000km normal) What could be the cause? The valve shaft seal has also been renewed. Does the oil flow back into the combustion chamber despite new seals? If so, can you use spez, oil loss stop additives to “thicken” new seals or are these additives only used to make hardened seals more elastic again? VG..