Hello, a few weeks ago I was at the “small inspection” (cKM stand about 44.000). Yesterday I noticed that I can pull the handbrake up to the stop (6x click) and the car still moves with a light gas giving. Apart from the fact that I call the FOH, who did the inspection briefly (quality of his work etc. – so far I was very satisfied) the question arises to me whether I can not do it myself. lschraube” as before in the center console? – and how do I test the optimal setting. Hope for tips. Thanks Bommel
Category: Smart Forum
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Omega hardly starts after LLR change
hello, I’ve already read through some answers, but I haven’t found the right one yet… it’s about the b caravan, 136 ps, gasoline, drove now some time in the rather high speed range in the empty run maybe 1100?, then after longer distance began the fluctuation between 1000 and 2000, exhaust gas smelled extremely bad, lambdasonde changed, was better at the cure, then longer test drive, which fluctuated again, llr changed, ran immediately deep, but at cold start giing the motor at the beginning again and again, about 3 min give light gas then worked and he commutes at 800 turns and drives very calmly, but now he goes after very short make up e.g. no more fuel, drags himself and then jumps about after 5-10 min wait again, but then the game with the time to give gas again starts again… what can I do?? love thanks for answers
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Vehicle does not start
Misdetection after reading was crankshaft sensor defective. Sensor replaced vehicle ran again 1.5 days, then the same error occurred. I have installed a new sensor today, vehicle still does not start. Experts claim the motronics does not break. Could it be defective after all?The petrol pump does not run.Who can tell me what about it? Axel
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Rumbling poltern knocking when accelerating from behind
So guys I can’t really get along with my problem. I’ve been looking like wild here, but I didn’t find anything really suitable. To the problem: If I start/accelerate with a speed between about 1500- 2500upr, then comes from somewhere behind a knocking, rumbling, polter, bollern, .. It’s not quite easy to describe. Sounds kind of rhythmic, getting faster with the speed. If I stay below 1500upr at the speed, the noise does not occur. It also doesn’t come, w It doesn’t always happen, but it’s about 90%. It gets/is stronger when I accelerate in a curve (re/li doesn’t matter). It’s definitely more dependent on the speed than on the speed, or from about 80-90km/h there’s nothing more to hear. I have the feeling that it gets worse when it’s loaded. I actually shut out the tyres. They’re very new (winter Michelin, about 10tkm), and it happens at very low speeds. I don’t believe dampers either. I don’t believe wheel bearings, because they would certainly report even more at higher speed. I checked the exhaust and found nothing suspicious. Had once raised it up, and a wheel off. Was not to be seen, or the difi. siffs quite easily. I then waved at the cardan shaft. It can be moved at the camp already very rough back and forth (approx. 1-3cm). I thought already to have found the enemy, until I read here that the camp, or the rubber That’s why I had to be soft (how soft???). I couldn’t control the hardy disks. In August I had the gear oil checked (only control, nothing changed). The difi has not yet been tested. The DTI has no brake belts in gears, so it can’t be. My guess: I still type on the bearing of the shaft, and possibly one/the hardy disks. I’m grateful for useful hints to seize the culprit! patrick
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Sunroof spins!!!
Greetings!!! Have a question to you again, and I think you can certainly help me (please); the following, since it is at the moment quite warm outside, I had tilted my sunroof, when I wanted to close it again, for the motor with the SD almost completely too but not completely and then immediately again; as with a fixed lifter which is pressed down with the hand and reopened, I hope to describe it vividly! managed it only with bitsl luck to close it again! on the first race when opening, press on top from the outside and then put on, then it went; that happened to me now 2 times, because the first time I didn’t really want to have it true!!! viell you can help me how it can make the SD spark as it should (or was earlier) many thanks lg ChP
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Opel Omega A 2.6 Dual Ram starts very hard / not starting
Tomorrow Leutzz!!! Was on Saturday at the Schrotti and got me a new distributor cap with him. Unfortunately she was also broken. Then I changed you and now we come to the problem. Did the plugs and I had to somehow get on it again on the ignition distributor:-) So now I tried to do you in the order as you were, unfortunately it was wrong and there was a bang and above the engine (air channels) or as the thing at the top of the engine is called and qwalmt wi e crazy.And he is now also leaking at the top of the rubbers. Sorry but I couldn’t describe it better. Has just given a loud bang and where the seals are at the top of the engine(think about the valves, but I’m not sure. Motor turns but doesn’t start yet. Could you give me a tip, how or what I have to do. Or I broke the engine. Or do I just have to replace the whole stuff where Dual Ram is on it, so the complete thing s da. Thanks and sry for the unapproachable description but it is not better, so not from my side.
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What else can I get for my grandmother?
Hello community, I hope I get some useful opinions from you. Is a difficult topic for you, because I want to sell my space monster Although with a tearing eye, it does not help anything, he has to go. Is now only the question I still get sold or does he have to go to the press? Although it is almost too bad for the press The data about the car are below (as it belongs here ) and in my profile there is also something to it. Why I have to get rid of it, it is I no longer have profitable work to do for me, such as: Timing belt change at 204,000 km, currently I have 201,800 km on it. Brakes rear Both door grips torn out driver/passenger side Hardy disc and middle bearing would be to change rust spots on the rear wheel runs, a “pickel” on the right rear side part and minimally under the handlebar of the rear flap. The dampers of the bonnet and rear flap are also a bit weak. The interior is still good to very good in Shot. Customer service was recently made, i.e. oil, filter, candles, luffi. In this process the Simmerring between the engine and automatic transmission was changed because of oil loss. What do you think could jump out there? Greeting, Speedy
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Air conditioning is not possible !
Somehow the omi was apparently built for car mechanics or for people with higher studies, because there is no normal look through anymore. To my problem, the air conditioning was serviced and refilled about 4 months ago, now that it has become a bit warmer of course also the air conditioning comes to use with me. Yesterday, we had a change of weather, when I was outside with my dear dogilein and I arrived after the walk again at the car I turned on the omi and arrived by mistake on the ” ECO – button “, SOFORT jumped on the air conditioning and cooled down really nice, although it was not so hot outside. Of course it pleased me that it cooled so well, but today (outside beautiful warm ) I was traveling with the grandmother, today I had with full intention pressed the ” ECO – button ” (so that the lamp was off ) and look……it did GARNICHTS, he cooled the air by exactly 0. Now I wonder why I’m not stupid and I tried to see if it might be because something isn’t closed properly, so all the doors are opened and then done again, just like the sun roof, every position is tried out and finally made, even with open and closed sliding things (that’s what you can still do under the sun roof). Didn’t bring the desired effect. Maybe someone can tell me what that was for a comis The only thing I want to do is to have a flasher and not a flasher. Maybe it’s that this magnetic disc from SD has something to do with it because I had it out sometime, maybe I put it back in the verkehertherum again. So, now I wait if someone can help me further here, because to be quite honest I don’t want to bring the grandma into the workshop again. so long Marco
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Change thermostat?
Hall oils, a question again about the Omega. The temperature indicator of my 2.0 16V only goes up to max. to the first stroke of the Scala. I am sure that this usually went higher. Now, of course, I have tapped on the thermostat. Only strange is that the heating still has a good heating power. What do you think, how high is your temperature indicator at these temperatures?
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Connect the power stage how?
Hello, show you my goods that I havehttp://s3.imgimg.de/…/IMAG0048e2bd430cjpg.2.jpg Is certainly not the best but naja At the bass box there are 2 connections + and – and at the power stage also how do I connect this now? I have zzt only the rear magnat boxes on the radio there comes now also bass and at the front also I have put with the fader a little quieter in front Now my question if you have the power stage incl bass box, comes over the normal boxes still bass which are connected via radio? Because actually the bass box is then responsible for the power cable for the battery and the mass cable is missing I still have to get right from the ATU I fear… or is that also in the normal electric market trade? What do I need there everything?