Category: Smart Forum

Hello dear Motor-Talk municipality, I’ve been a little depressed since today!! I had my car in the workshop last week. My Omega year 2001 had got new TÜV, since it jumped badly in the last time, I also let him miss new glow candles. All in all = 650,- EUR! When I want to pick up the car today (Sunday) from the workshop, he does not start any more. I called the ADAC, who tried in vain to start the car. To the end without success! AC-man taps on the sprinkling pump, because he can actually exclude everything else – he said. So, now I have a real problem!! Actually I didn’t want to invest anything more, because the car is to be sold. And a new pump certainly costs me a pole money, I actually wanted to have another 3,500 EUR for the car though 200,000 km down is optically good in shot. With the new situation, however, the date will probably NIX!!! Beautiful Schxxxx… Has one a tip or a similar Situati on? Should I sell the car immediately defective? Or rather have it repaired? Thought also on a used pump. But it also costs – and then still the installation ( unfortunately I am not a screwdriver). Would you like your help… Greeting and thanks! Sascha

Hello together, I drive a beautiful Omega B Caravan 2.2 DTI (y22dth) and am now looking for a Powerbox. I would like to ask you about this before I add one. I have already found googled and various manufacturers. Unfortunately, I can’t assess which manufacturers are the “good” and which are the “bad ones”. In general, I think that the box will not get 200 hp from the vehicle. However, the Powerbox should really be extra power, but also an This is my understanding of extra power and economy. Can you please tell me your manufacturers (module names), performance values and consumptions. You can also call me the black sheep so that nobody shoots the engine. Greetings Schnubbitec

Moin. Unfortunately, the Sufu didn’t get me any further. I wouldn’t be angry if my omega got a little bit more power and a little less consumption came out. I had thought about removing the precats and having the STG adjusted accordingly. As far as I know, more fuel is deliberately injected in the y26/32se to reduce the combustion temperature so that the precats don’t get into smoke. If that were possible, what would you appreciate about Is the engine even more durable after that? Because of AU I am not worried, is only done with warm engine and there are the Vorkats then anyway.

I have a 2.2 DTI BJ. probably 2003 first registration 23.08.2004 130000 Tkm. At the beginning of the week on the way to Arbet after about 100 km. ride short drop of the engine dan it went again for about 5km without problems. Then the MKL went on had already not had such good experience with the lights of the MKL ESP renewed be 70000Km directly stopped and called the yellow angel. According to Wekstat complete engine defective tipper lever broken valve and piston but damage the piston run on the block ha Now I come to the question that I change the pistons and repair the cylinder head dafon or is there even more to it?

Hi, I actually come from the Ford Mondeo range I play but with the thoughts of me in the next months to buy a mv6 price up to 350€ but with guarantee he can also 4costs. But would like to know how the omegas with the V6 are in general like that. so e.g. I drive a Mondeo Mk1 with 2.5l 24V v6 engine is actually also quite satisfied alerdings too lazy to switch. How are the acceleration values of the mv6 BJ:95-98 so the 3.0 211PS motors. is the 4speed automatic ik good or rather not how long does it last and how long does the motor last there are parts on the motor that break particularly quickly e.g. ZKD or or (I know the bender is not very good) and would you buy such a car again or rather not? MFG

So in the next two weeks I still have a few things Rep. 1. Coupling rods come in there the reinforced HD of MEYLE. It’s just that I notice that it really bangs at the front even with strong brakes. No matter on which road. I hope it’s gone afterwards. Or what else could that be? 2. New summer tyres (this time on steel rims except I find a top offer of 235 he for the Alu ́s) and also track adjustment.. 3. Valve cover seal. the bay or there also get again something from the part dealer ???http://cgi.ebay.de/…/290359957021?… 4. Expansion vessel change. (there I am still looking for a used one, so who always has one with it) 5. bonnet change…. And then further work before the holiday possibly water cooler change and climate service… Gruss Stefan

Hello Omega driver, I would be interested in who of you fills everything e10, and what experiences he has made with it. I know that the government vehicles are not allowed to fill e10. I thought that if they are not allowed to fill it, then mine will not get it either….. just refuel super plus, because this has the same price as e5…. I don’t want to have a political discussion here, but only the experiences of those who have filled e10 in their omega. thank you and say hello to zoekie

Hello dear Omega municipality , Wanted mall question whether it theoretically possible to switch the automatic gearbox also manuel , so something like tiptronic … Just push by button up , or switch down . Is the Tribe electronic switched (by speed, KM/H or pre-programmed program ) . So the question is, do you have such a possibility to build ?????

Hello everyone, I’m new here. We have the following problem: Opel Omega B, year 1998, 2,0 16 V, 136 HP, engine: X20XEV. We bought the car in December, with snow and ice. It was now, on Christmas Eve, no, sorry, it was a little joke, so Christmas Eve I had to drive my husband to Santa Claus appearance, drove into a snowy, icy side road and drove me promptly. Try to get “griff” again by steering, nothing. Until someone with a bit Since then, the following has been done on the car: 1. Brakes in front (dishes and blocks) renewed – no change 2. Cross handlebars in front again (the old jacks were gone anyway) – no change 3. Errors read out – no error, even the MKL or the ABS lamp do not shine 4. Brake fluid renewed – no change 5. Brake discs in front and back checked due to possible damage – all right 6. ABS-St your device replaced, ABS sensors cleaned – no change 7. ABS rings checked – i.e., we are at the end… no one knows what that can still be… Can it be that I may have broken something on the wheel hub or the axle with my steering or what do I know what else there is??? I can only describe the rattling in this way: no matter what speed (at higher you notice it of course more) we brake, the car rattles or stutters at the brake It would be great if anyone here still had ideas… Thank you so much and many greetings from Bremerhaven.

Hello, I hope that I get help here. I installed a C30SE with AR35 in my Commodore several years ago. Due to the multi-weight has come a lot deeper ahead – optically I also liked that at the time. Now I would like to get about 3cm higher for a “age-appropriate” look and a better follow-up at the VA front. Currently the very normal series springs are installed. Which one can be used instead? What fits there without further? Senator A or B? Diesel?