Category: Smart Forum

Hello to each other, just today is unfortunately a lady, around the end of 40, in the parking lot me backwards, with “rolling speed slightly downhill” and relying on her active parking aid in my senator. Luggage rack pressed in the worst, push-tang sits still firmly, but the underlying sheet also massively pressed in. Gengnar was a Toyota Avensis Caravan II, at step speed. I once added a picture to you. Tomorrow I want to join with her, in the Opel contract workshop and she wanted to carry the costs without insurance. On her caravan, apart from slight scratches on the bumper, nothing can be seen. But of your car there are paint tracks on my. Written debt statement I have already written independently and let her sign it. Suspects by acquaintances were said that the body will probably be drawn up and a new sheet has to come in and with at least 2500,-€ to be reckoned with. I am very”ready with the world”.

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Hello to each other After the problem with the crooked ZK is fixed and my Ommi is running again the next problem comes now. My Ommi is a 96er 3.0 MV6 Caravan with just 137000 Km on the clock. For a few days the idle speed causes problems after almost every start. Morning and evening, in the cold state the speed fluctuates so that the light becomes darker and brighter again. After about 1.5-2 min it runs normal. Today the phenomenon also occurred in the warm state. It would also be worth noting that the Ommi now needs a few more revolutions to start than before, because it otherwise jumped already shortly after turning the ignition key. I used the SF but found nothing suitable. For a few helpful tips I would be very grateful. With the best regards Lothar

I’m afraid my AGR valve is broken. Had had an oil stain under the car every day a little bit a year ago, but there was no oil loss. The whole engine was oiled. My alternator killed the oil. After the TÜV had warned about oil loss and I had an engine wash done, there was no oil for a long time. Now there are small oil splashes over the alternator. Fits to the AGR valve. I’ve been rummaging here for a long time and seen a photo of the AGR. There’s a hose on it, I don’t, the nipple also looks as if a hose has to be on it. In the meantime, I’ve read: The AGR is controlled by mechanical pressure box, the exhaust return should only be active at partial load. Therefore, a pressure line to the pressure box, which informs the AGR of the current load situation. My question now: Where does the pressure signal for the AGR come from? Maybe the hose still hangs around and has to be secured. Otherwise, I have to replace it, even if the AGR valve is replaced by the AGR without an order signal.

Hello people I have heard that in a car with gas system a special lubricant that provides for valve cooling, which can be installed. With me in the Omega I did not have this lubricant installed by the previous owner the gas system at approx. 60000 km 2008. My Omega has now 132000 km down without this lubricant. My question to you I want to have this lubricant installed for the valve cooling should I do this or do not need that. I did not hear the Mercedes and BMW that, because the valves installed by them are not overheated so much but if that is true I do not know DANKE MFG

Hello, I’ve read a lot of posts here, but I’m not sure what the cause of my problem can be. And since I recently had to change the turbo and also the engine suspension on the right, I’m zzt. quite economical The problem: Omega sometimes (now more often) does not start in the cold state. He spins, spins, doesn’t start avber. Warm he jumped up so far. First suspicion was on battery, but starting aid of another relatively large diesel didn’t help either.. By pushing it started immediately. From what I’ve read, maybe a (more?) injector could be defective (according to posts in the forum then rather no start problem in the cold state, rather warm?), or the diesel pump under the passenger seat (one hears me, it’s running well), or the pressure control valve of the pump. The crankshaft sensor will probably not be, or? (did I once, it didn’t jump warm at all.) What would you type/what could I check at home? Thank you for all the possible hints for 1-2.

Hello dear community, I wanted to bother you maybe only later because I wanted to change my crossbars today, but when I wanted to leave this morning I had to find out that the clutch suddenly has no effect anymore, really zero, then I looked under the car and how God wants it a thick oil puddle. So I would now suspect the seal between gearbox and engine, could that be? Had jmd already something like that and can I fix that if it is relatively fixed ihow again, lifting platform I did not have but with two ramps it should go or ???

Moin colleagues, I have a little problem with my omega. -> With the search function I had little luck, so now my contribution. I had the car yesterday after 227,000km the first time to the climate check. My “old” Opel dealer said to me at the time: “If you always put out the air conditioning 15min before the end of the journey, you do not need a climate check with disinfection. And if there is too little refrigerant it shuts down anyway. Then you can still do a climate check. “This case I had now on Thursday. Yesterday (Friday) I had the car so because of too low refrigerant level at the FOH to the climate check. Climate cools again, everything is good. This morning I checked in the “cold” condition the ball valve (GM-No.: 13277003) to fill up. At the same time I could observe that air bubbles rose through the cold medium fluid standing on the valve. After a short car ride, the bubbles seemed to be mutated rather to small bubbles in the “cold” condition.

Omega B 2,0 l, 1 36 HP , Caravan, Built 98 I went on holiday with Omi , first 1500 km, with the caravan at the rear, no problems. Cooling water temperature about 96 degrees In Austria, Gerlitzen – Bergstraße: It goes on, without caravans!, Cooling water temperature gets into the red area , Blowing / steam, the ride uphill is over! Return trip: 1500 km, no problems. Because Omi did not like the mountains, I had changed the cooling water pump before. The old pump had no damage. Fan runs impeccable. No coolant loss, the hoses are filled and hot. Cooler is not dirty. Cooling water I had also changed. It is clean. What can I do to prevent Omi from dying of heat death??? Cereale

Moin, I’m new here. I’ve been driving Opel for 30 years, currently an Omega 2.5 TDI BJ 95 and screw a lot of things myself. Now I need your help. The TÜV has written me a one-sided defect report. I could manage everything without using the FOH. So the FOH wanted to work alone for the fog lights, 100-200 EUR depending on the effort. I had a new front apron with foggers installed and the TÜV wanted it to work. I then got it for 5 EUR plus new switch at Ebay. Can at some point describe how to retrofit the cable. In the re-examination he additionally criticized a worn rubber on the stabilizer on the rear axle. Expansion and pushing out of the old part as well as pushing in the new rubber went with a hydraulic press without problems. I get the part in the built-in condition but not pushed far enough over the handle. As soon as the metal books with the iron cursssed, I lack any point of approach for a lever. Someone knows how to get the rubber over the handler. I have to expand the rear axle completely.