Category: Smart Forum

Hello, I came back two days ago from my well-deserved holiday. However with mixed feelings – reason: So on the penultimate day I wanted to pull the approximately 1,800 kg boat (incl. trailer) at the slip point out of the water (and I’m not doing this for the first time; with different towing vehicles), did NOT go forward despite the completely dissolved clutch! The clutch simply slipped through and in a very short period of time had a powerful smoke!! Now to my question: Is this with the Om ega normal, that the coupling may be undersized? Or is there a reinforced coupling for the Omega? After the ordeal and a subsequent 1,500 km home journey I no longer have much confidence in this coupling and want to fix this error as quickly as possible. Please for information / tips. Thank you in advance. Greetings, QP_Bertone_19 PS: km-Performance: 50,000 (without trailer), just recently AHK installed, other vehicle data can be found in the signature!

Hello! I have a funny problem with my Navi. I have the Omega for 3 weeks and got with it the cards CD from 2003 Germany. Now I got the new 2007/2008 Alpine countries, because the Germany CD in Austria is not really helpful. So new CD in, and it came the message new software available, please turn on ignition. After ignition on and confirmation then the message new software is loaded, another 1 minute, then another 30 seconds, and software was successfully loaded, system is restarted. So far so good, but after the restart came some time nothing, and then the message “read error, please clean the CD” or something like that. That’s a new CD without any scratches or dirt, but the drive doesn’t want and doesn’t want to read it, it always comes back the same message. Can it be that the CD has what? or the drive? But why was the software update done then? does anyone have an idea? blesha

Hello! Since this morning I have the following problem. After the first start the car ran as usual. On further drive I noticed that the car took a bad gas. At first I thought of moisture (was here the days awfully poured) and a few times the gas pedal penetrated strongly. When the engine was really warm it then actually ran round. After the parking of the car and later again he wanted to do it again not so correctly and eated around again and took even ke in gas. Turned up a couple of times and at some point it ran round. Now it always starts badly and can not be convinced any more. In addition, it also has misignitions. Recently all ignition cables incl. coil came new to distributors. In addition, I cleaned the throttle flap and the engine ventilation. I also put another idle switch in there once, but does not change anything. Does anyone have an idea here? Greetings, Martin

Hi Omigemeinde, on my way to work a 10km construction site was set up where you can only drive at a speed of 80km/h. At the current diesel prices I take this option to keep my consumption low. Since driving there, my on-board computer (Opel Omega 2.2DTI (BJ2003)) shows “Check oil level”. If I step on it again after the construction site and drive 120km/h or faster the message is gone again. The message also always comes at the end of the construction site. can it be that the oil is distributed differently at the low speed? I have pulled out the oil test rod several times and my oil level is always on the Max. mark. There are already some posts on this topic, but the on-board computer shows the message permanently there. Thank you already in advance.

Hello Forum, who knows in which driving stages the converter bridge becomes active and under which conditions (speeds, load) this happens?

I have just heard it on the radio, from June on taxes should no longer be calculated by engine capacity but by g co2. The question arises to me on whether large companies also have to print 2 Euro per gram co2 what you blow up in the air? There would be so much nice possibilities to preserve the environment sustainably, to save and to spare and what does our Bundestag do? Of course, takes again the most short-term solution which in the end does nothing. I really wonder what this with our We It should still be done if everyone is so lazily dealing with the topic and obviously nobody is interested. As I understood earlier the first 120g co2/km are free, each additional gram costs then 2 Euro. Can someone confirm that? Haven’t found anything yet… So even the 2.5 DTi would cost only 228Euro taxes!? Well, just give your opinions off MfG

Hey people, need urgent help. Since about 15 TKM the DZM shows about 550 rpm. The engine also runs a bit rough. Was already in the workshop and had the idle speed raised to the maximum 950 rpm, unfortunately without success. Is there with the 3.2 it also as a kind of idler as with the 3.0. I already the whole time on troubleshooting. Who knows with the engine and its treacherous something. Thank me already for comment ;-)) Domi81

Hi guys, I’ve already read all sorts of things here, but I’m going to open my own topic. As written in the description, it cracks with me when I steer. Sometimes it blocks easily. I have unscrewed the steering cover and found a small plastic part in the lower part, no idea of what that can be. I steered something back and forth and noticed that in this eye view when it blocks this “plastic disc” goes slightly upwards behind the steering wheel…. Has jeman d ne idea ?? Thank you

Hello people, at my Opel Omega A Caravan, registration 1993 key number 0039 685 vehicle identification number: WOL 0000 66 P 1 108002 engine number 14677357 I had made the preparations to replace the water pump. For this work there was already plenty of help. Therefore everything seemed clear. However, when I wanted to bring the engine in basic position – ignition OT cylinder 1 – I searched in vain for the thorn on the engine block, which was shown in all description e Marking on the crankshaft belt disc should show. After this presentation I finished my work before the timing belt was loosened and rebuilt. A wrong setting certainly results in engine damage. Therefore, I ask you if there are other possibilities to adjust the engine position correctly – or do newer motors have another adjustment aid? It would be great if I could get support. Otherwise only one workshop bed is left. uch. Best regards, Dieter

Meal and there Iche again, Well as in the title – ua. “Water loss” and no shimmer where it runs. Step sporadically, no matter how far I drive or how short, runs – as I can see, behind the engine – over the transmission. Anyway, it runs – there- down or splashes sometimes. As said not always but more often – more or less. Heating cooler is new (ca 3Mon), Termostat dry (as can be seen), the hoses from the HZK in the engine compartment are dry and d hard, heating switch – hoses on it and seems dry. Was already pressed off and was according to the report of the workshop, naturally nothing to determine and it still runs. Mostly who it is really warm, and then I often get ice cold who I think about how much water the next time is missing. And icke stand there and slowly have no plan and only knows – IT NERVT ANIMAL – !! At the moment, nothing without my water canister. Who has the ingenious and helpful idea to it?? ch, as seen in the picture, it goes behind the engine direction gear and that’s it – nothing more to see where it runs. I also find nothing where it could be connected to the engine or behind it, all occupied. Funny thing that. So and nu H-Ü-L-F-E-E-E-E ———- Bidde Thanks in advance The Martock