Hello friends, I bought an Omega B Caravan for the pleasure of my father-in-law. Unfortunately it is very vulnerable. In the 2 weeks I have it it is only broken. Heating valve new, at Opel with installation 155 €, heating coolers flush 86 € and freeze I still do, petrol pump defective etc.. So, TC and ABS light very often sporadic, thus no function of the tachos and the systems as well as the power steering. Sometimes it works and the lights are off. The lights turn on to great shocks and everything falls off. I suspect somewhere a wobble contact, but where ???? Can someone help me here from you, I really hate to work for a car. Thank you so much, I am totally disappointed, although I like to drive by car. Please say hello Sebastian
Category: Smart Forum
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Facer driver, rust on the FL ; How do you look ??
Hello, after the winter I looked at my FL from below to spray on wax. What I saw almost brought me to a fainting attack. The underbody, mainly, from the middle, in the rear area, full of rust. Longitudinal beams at the front as well. Externally, the car stands in the lacquer as new, also in the area of the door sleepers. Found in our room a company that restore, which want to rust the underbody, treat with rust paint/lacquer and open protective wax. ler(after taking off protective strips) And foaming out longitudinal carriers with Mike Sanders,price cheap. My VFL Bj.95 (which made me an idiot for total damage) had rust on the doors and window shafts,but nothing on the underfloor. So what does it look like with you and what do you do? It’s a shame that Opel sells such a SChrott to customers. although de Omega is a top car Dieter
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Sell or keep: Opel Omega A, 2.6, CD
Our good, reliable Omega A had to go to TÜV and unfortunately did not pass it. There are some flaws to fix such as brake discs front and rear, leaky shock absorbers, corrosion on a door and a rusted exhaust. The car is from 1990 and has never had major repairs, except wear parts. Engine (C26NE) purrs like one and the transmission is also fine. Now my question, since I am not from the compartment. It is worth repairing the car and it is up to To keep the next TÜV or does that mean the end of our long-standing good relationship? The car actually drives like on rails. Actually, I had already decided to sell it to a hobbyist, but I have now come to ponder. What do you think?
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Sensors
Hello, a month ago I bought a Opel Omega B built in 1994, actually wanted to go to the TÜV with the car, but I drove to the Opel dealer before to have the motor electronics indicator deleted. It’s good that I did that, because some errors were discovered about which I didn’t know anything. The whole braking system had to be renewed at the front, the suspension springs and the track bar at the front too, in addition to that a screw was torn off at the exhaust curve and on the A Then you could see that the handbrake rope was loose and then when the repair was done it was stuck! Now everything is repaired again, does not come the next problem? Did the car from the workshop drive to the gas station and then we wanted to drive home. On the way was suddenly close the car drove no more forward and then started also not then to the Opel dealer! The latter has determined that the air mass meter; tanks Ventilation valve and sensor speed crankshaft is defective! Costs for the three parts 581,00 € plus working hours plus added value, that’s too much money for me and now I want to do it myself. The air mass meter and the sensor speed crankshaft I have just missed the tank ventilation valve and so far not found yet. Who can help me get the cheap one? However, don’t know where the things are installed in my Omega who can help me with this? detkar 70
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What do you think of it *-*
Hi to all members and readers, I got an offer. Search is longer yes an Omega Facelift *dream* Now I could have one, but don’t know if the price fits so and if I should sacrifice my car for it. (LPG) Data Bj 99 Ez 2000 Ehm.Polizei dare civilian. 156800 KM Snow White Limosine 2,5 Ecotec V6 Motor Gasoline Automatic Tüv 05.2011 From coach the still good looks out of slight traces of use.. n Crank Normal Headlights No Xenon CD Radio Original So only the savings package flaws Währe El. Window lifter switch wobble contact need new in. El mirrors do not work. Door boards driver and passenger above lots of back In trunk is a thick cable harness just as I remember my old limo is that the wire harness for the sound system and CD changer. So missing is missing. The dare was used longer (light slak on the oil lid) Statement of sale hes did not drive any water loss or smoke leather seats all day long Were self-contaminated by Vor Facelift that means no sides airbag ́s =( For the price of 1900 Euro, What do you say about it ? What I now ride stands in signature Would I be happy to write your opinion about it, positive or negative.
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Omega 2,5 DTi purchasing advice
Hello, I’m looking for a new towing vehicle Since the production of the Scorpio has been stopped years before the Omega, it is clear to me that I will eventually get an Omega. Today I have looked at the first 2.5 DTi (EZ 10.2002) today and have a few questions to ask. 1. The car has about 100,000 km down and in the TÜV report (2007 at 82,000km) was something of oil loss. If you have looked down on the right its on the engine ic Where can this come from? 2. Furthermore, I noticed a whistle sound coming from the right ( Turbocharger?) It starts at 2000 revolutions and is then not to be heard at 3000 anymore. At full throttle it is also immediately gone. You can hear it best when you lightly give gas. I tap on the turbo, but is that normal? At other TDIs you can hear the turbo, but my opinion only when you also give gas… 3. Except that you can discover a lot of oil slags. should have removed these flaps from the intake bridge, I can not read much extremely negative about the vehicle and moter or am I wrong? 4. Has anyone already missed a particle filter for this car? 5. Should I pay special attention to something else? (except for what already stands for the Ankausberatungs Tread) Thank you!
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Overtake engine general
Hi , my omega has now run 240000 km and what has been done exactly by the pre-owned I know net so exactly .. now I want to keep the car definitely at least 5 years (because it is so good to me ) now we were in summer on vacation since I drove 1300km down and had hardly any oil cover about 0.5l , then we are there in the area driving about 300-450 km in the mountains in Bosnia and it was an outside temp of about 48 C° then the temp was getting warmer to shortly before the red un d then I stopped and looked after the oil that was on under min about 1-2cm we had to then still about 10 km until we were at ner tanke and there I then filled up the oil. about 1,5- 2 l it was. then everything was ok then on another day nen mountain drove up and there was the temp to the beginning of the red making hot have stopped oil that was ok and then let the engine cool down a little. there it was only on the fan wheel because the cage was off but had to go to the workshop because I had to cool down as unfortunately have found net. since they told me then that you should put on the head a little bit not immediately the complete seal change. would that bring what?? have now also light oil cover and also light cool water verb. however where we drove back was the hideout ok about 0,75 l au 1300 km but once went on the highway the oil control light at about 200kmh, have stopped immediately but the oil stand was ok. funny.. now I wonder if I have found the moto r in the summer should be overtaken in a specialized plant.. it is worth it with such a motor or could have the now bigger harm.. and how expensive would be such a thing and could one if one had to do the on has possibly equal to what the performance .. possibly other pistons etc.. thank you for your answer, hope I have explained it empathically..
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Purchase decision 2,5 V6
Hello I play with the idea of buying an omega 2,5 V6 my questions: if I should buy one on what I have to pay attention where is the engine most vulnerable or is the car still a workshop faithful car which Bj recommend you to me where most of the childhood diseases are removed because I don’t have so much money over it should be one between 2000 and 4500 € is the preivostellung in order or should I spend more on how high the consumptions are 9-10l realistic? eh he does not matter but the car has a 2-din radio shaft about like this:http://suche.mobile.de/…/showDetails.html?…http://www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx?id=lfscho2sw1hn thanks for replying ps so the difference between V6 and MV6
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Klopsensor Omega B brings me to despair
Hey you freaks… The knock sensor of my Omi is still killing me! didn’t come through the tuv because of brilliant engine diagnosis!The examiner wrote something about environmental pollution, which I absolutely don’t understand, AU got my Omi without the smallest problem! Engine diagnosis returned;Knock sensor bank 1! So he was changed and the error deleted! After 100 meters of driving the control lamp again lit up again test returned:Knock sensor bank 1…! everything was measured cable-wise and k Ontrolliert, what went to control…everything Ok In the meantime the error has been deleted 5 times but the control lamp still lights up and so I don’t get my badge! Maybe someone has a clue what my omi suffers from? I am grateful for every tip!!!!
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[Omega A 2.6i] Help – my fat guy is jerking!
Hello together. Have problems with my Omega A 2.6i. And indeed the good guy is quite strong, he has problems with the gas acceptance and of course does not bring the full power. In the cold condition the problems are quite clear, with increasing engine temperature the symptoms decrease, also at high speed. Nevertheless, even with warm engine you have the feeling that there is something wrong. Finally the consumption has probably also increased and lies at about 15l, in the normal case I come I can’t remember the whole gas orgy in the city. Anyway, it was no more than usual. The Lambda probe was renewed about a year ago, the jerking does not disappear even when the probe was pulled off. I also mean to remember that the probe does not regulate anything when the engine is cold. So the Lambda probe probably disappears. I also had the distributor cap off. It seems to have come anew, as does the runner. Is the optical impression good and (for the time being) also eliminates as a source of error. What does this still come into view or what is a hot tip? Air quantity meter? Ignition cable, ignition coil, spark plugs? So experts, let’s get to the keys. The thickness is by the way no grotto: 150tkm down, up to 125tkm checkbook, afterwards maintenance in free workshop, TÜV/AU just new. By the way, I’ve been in the KLR for over a year, he has never made problems. And no, it’s not Omega B, although i I’ve got him in the avatar.