Category: Smart Forum

  • omega b x20xev Question about petrol pressure

    moin people, I have an omega 2.0 16v x20xev if I want to start it, it starts badly and only when I play a bit with the gas. the petrol pressure is zero at the start, only when I turn a few seconds it goes up to 3bar, then it also starts, only with gas, but it runs without problems when it is on. takes normal gas on etc. only lights up now the motor electronic lamp, error: “crank angle sensor, voltage too high/low” if the error is deleted, it comes back at the start again. I pull the cable off the sensor, it runs the same way, or jumps the same way.. what can this be? is it the sensor, or maybe the gasoline pump??? please help me quickly, wants to drive this year still round with it mfg

  • Omega A immobilizer causes problems

    Hello people Yesterday the car just went out during the ride and it wasn’t sprite. My opinion is it’s because of my immobilizer, because the MKL did not light up at the start afterwards and the car did not jump. After a short waiting time it went again. Info:MKL does not light up when the car has not opened with the remote control. You have to open the car with the FB so that the immobilizer is disabled. I still have to say that it smelled a little burnt at the light switch or underneath (can’t exactly determine it) and the smell has not disappeared until now. Maybe someone knows where the module for the immobilizer is installed and how to pull it out or bridge it? Thank you

  • help search omega series tire within 5 days 🙁

    hi. I need the fastest possible offers for matures. since some persohnen have cancelled the holiday with my parents we can only drive with their own car for cheap money. would like to accept this offer of my parents very much because I could not treat my family for 10 years any more. because you do not get rich on today’s labor market. our car is unfortunately for 3 months with uncarable matures on the farm. therefore look urgently mature until Saturday the 8.8.2009 either serial tyres 205/65 15 inches 94 v this then 4 times or 235/40 18 inches 94 v these then but only 2 times as the rear ones are ok.

  • Power failure in the Omega

    I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the last thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say hello to the second thing, I had to say hello to the second thing, I had to say hello to the second thing, I had to say hello to the second thing, I had to say hello to the second thing.

  • Mount the crossbars -> how to get the joint in…

    Hello, at the Omi-A I had already changed the transverse handlebars a dozen times. Since my Omega B was at the front right for a long time, the coupling rods and dome bearing exchange but did not bring anything, almost only the transverse handlebar remained over. Somehow you have to use more force with the B-Omi to get the new handlebar in. I made the following order: 1.) rear socket in and screw loosely in. (because otherwise the socket bent and does not go in. 2.) front socket loosely in. 3.) Now comes the convulsion: carrying joint in the axle-screw. Did I break one at, how does it make a professional? I still have the one here for the driver side, I also want to replace, then the track rods new and off for the axle measurement. The two screws for the bearings, must be renewed?

  • New Omega and equal problems…:-(

    Hello together, I’ve been driving the omi from the signature for 3 days now and I’ve been very satisfied. Until today I wanted to overtake a tractor. When I gave full gas the engine started to jerk and stutter. I then took the gas back and accelerated with a little less gas and then passed by with sweat beads on the head at the tractor. It felt like a cylinder had failed. Since then the Mkl and I have really scared to overtake now. This jerk can be easily reproduced and indeed if I give full gas at relatively low speed. According to sufu in the forum is probably due to the dis module or somewhere at the ignition system. Now I have 3 questions. 1. The mkl lights up. Tell me the glow of the mkl that the motor is running in the emergency program or is it just an info about that is stored in the motor control unit? 2. Since I have a 1 year used car guarantee I don’t want to get back to me the warranty?

  • eBay coupler rod vs originals from FOH

    Hello people… …now it’s also time for my mom. It’s time to change the coupling rods. So I asked the FOH today about the price. One costs about 45 euros. Now I’ve looked around for fun at 321. And look, clearly cheaper!!!! 2 pieces for 14,40 € !!! See here I want to know from you whether someone has installed these eBay parts and whether they get qualitatively to the Opel dealer. I’m a bit skeptical about that. After all, I don’t have a chance that the things have to be replaced after 5tkm or so because it’s inferior material. It’s called who buys cheap, he buys twice. I hope for a few reviews. Nice thanks in advance… LG Michael

  • Omega newcomer with questions

    Hello dear Omega friends, I’ve been proud owner of an Opel Omega B 2.5 V6 (Benzin) with automatic gearbox Bj. 11.1994 and super satisfied. My father got the Omega Facelift and I’ve been allowed to have the old one a few questions about the car anyway: 1.) He has about 220.000km down and after the start the engine rattles for about 5 seconds, but what is immediately gone and only appearance when the engine is cold. Has jmd experience with what that could be ?! 2.) a consumption of 13-15l p/100km normal ?(95% city) is of course with speedy driving “the bad S-button…” 3.) off and on when I wait at a traffic light, “jmd” quite easily “jumps” and the car feels uneasy. is only 2-3 times for short time (10min) occurred. Does the maximum of my driving be quite happy yet again. 4.) he certainly has not seen a highway for 2 years. I would like to free it properly (evtl sings of consumption). If I’d like normal? If I’d like to be happy about a good time.

  • Clagers on the front left also without hube..

    Juhu, today I found a clacker on the driver’s side during my ride with my Omega. It’s not the barbs. I know the sound too well. The clacking occurs even with a completely quiet ride, not even if I drive through a little hole or something like that. Just then my husband has been working hard on the bonnet to see if it is there in the stand and see there: If it is pressed down in the front left then the clacking or rather beating noise is there. But only when the wheels are standing right now. Are they hit, say it’s on tension, then not. Could it be something that is easy to fix?? That would be great. 😉 Thanks already for the help Kathy

  • SUPPLEMENTARY ASSISTANCE!

    Hallo dear engine talk community! this platform is our last hope for: Opel omega b MV6 BJ 1997 in our display is really good to say: OIL STAND and also from time to time MOTOR OIL since we have unfortunately no manual of the omega, we do not know the meaning, b.z.w know this error not to interpret. in advance it is said that we have oil in the water! before now everyone shouts: cylinder head seal, be told here that the complete engine is overtaken! here are some data, all the tracks rubbers / bearings ( or as you already call it STAND ^^)…….andundund….only times what’s new. I have read here in various threads, the display can be done with the normal?