Category: Smart Forum

It’s all about the everyday car, B Corsa C14NZ, 850kg according to appearance. I’m with me, which variant would be better for the thing now. Usage: 75% city / short distance without using the power, because also the series C14NZ, is only about transport A to B. The remaining 25% would be AB long distance (mostly 270km) and highway (approx. 100km). On the AB should be possible also at 140km/h rice speed noticeable acceleration and on the highway are n few reserves necessary for fleeting overtaking Since there is a lot of truck traffic there. Important is therefore above all the fuel consumption, which should stay with a everyday car as low as possible (which is why also no C20NE or similar but 1.4l). Was only totally off on the X14XE, was advised me because of the high short distance part of not. C14SE would be very simple since the car offers the optimal conditions for regarding Stabis and brake, the Minikat also covers the SE with missing only the 3 bar fuel pump and stop the engine. Now I have however This would be definitely not in my mind. If it is kicked, it may also cup, but under normal use it should not go through more than 7,5l/100km. Therefore the question: C14SE or C14NZ with nock (by 272 or 280°) for more booms on top (to overtake) and the 2 floody crackers + trouser tube of the C16SE. I like to listen to experiences and recommendations.

After a few hours on the test bench real 132KW have come out with the following modifications: work on Coscast head, engineblocj drilled to first oversize, camshaft DS 603(278° without ramp,11,1mm stroke,108° spread,2mm OT hub at 108° spread) adapted suction tube, machined throttle valve, large racing fan manifold incl. dsop exhaust system, eased momentum, condensed is also a red Riding Hood and a CN insert filter atte. I am very satisfied with the tuning and can recommend the company Kaul with the best of conscience. When driving first I thought I had another car.Motor speaks much more spontaneously and looks more splashy.Easy class.No comparison to before. MfG Tigra2.0 16V

I’m helping my C20XE a bit on my feet. According to the diagram, I tend to phase 2 because the torque is much earlier and is more constant. However, performance falls back at 5500. Who has experience with Phase 2 and 3??

ahrrrr….it’s really annoying….after hours of testing rides and measuring I still have no idea what the grudn is for my problem…. the problem: so again….ic hbin before a week or so with heavy raindriving and driving through a bigger puddle and then he mucked briefly, as if he had pulled water or something…well.. .on all cases I noticed since then 2 things.. .. 1. he jerks very strongly, but if I close the agr it is much less, still jerking and 2nd hits even further to 2. I have a strong performance loss, but that only from middle turns, he does not want to turn at all higher and well, you can only get ahead hard, but down there he still runs through properly… what ic hmade….so I cleaned the agr, the lambda measured (was still in the tolerance range,….) the control unit (was also in the tolerance range) then the candles (had made new ones pure, but no submissive ed) and the ignition cables also all look very good as well as the ignition distributor or splice where the ignition cables go in…. so the contacts all look very good… IT’S HAPPENING TO AN OPEL ASTRA F BJ 97 WITH THE 1.6ER SZR MOTOR ic hhab absulut no anung what it is, please further helpful ideas…thanks

Hello, for now, I have no idea of cars and have always had a leasing vehicle so not to tear up immediately. So following, I drive an old Opel Omega Caravan Built 82. TÜV and AU were made at the end of last year. Yesterday I then had the problem, I drove a little faster than usual, at once there was a blow, the engine nice to smoke and I turn right, engine off, first time bonnet on , has quite stunk but asks me not nac h what exactly, and steamed, parts of the engine were quite hot, although I was only 5 minutes away. Since my destination was not 5 minutes away by car anymore, I waited until it cooled down and stopped steaming, put me in, and I continued (but without a mobile phone it is quite uncomfortable on the highway in drizzle rain). !. bad signs in idle I have the feeling to sit on a tractor, that will only be minimally better w I put in a gear and give gas and will be really bad when I come in the 5th over 80Km/h. 2. bad sign to hear a slight loop during the ride 3. Very bad sign after finishing the ride and turning off the engine still about half a minute to a minute to hear a loop. I have now left the car at the finish place and move away by train, but can someone tell me what, that could be, and what costs there are about to be on me mmen können ? Sincerely Benjamin

Hello Opel municipality! As a former Opel driver again beautiful memories come up when I see the names of the diligent writers here in the forum. My B-Vectra I have now “herited” my brother and he continues to do good services, and after a short trip to the Japanese brand Lexus I returned to the house GM, this time to the “teure” department Saab and got me a 9-3 with the 1.8i. Engine ID Z18XE. The same of the also in several Opel models He immediately made me have a lot of fun in the car, of the dimensions weight etc. is to settle the 9-3 in the Vectra segment. Many Saab drivers speak of a tired toad but to me he suffices and I am completely satisfied so far. Since I bought the car from a dealer about 350km away from my home and of course still used car guarantee is on it I wanted to know if there are typical diseases with the engine since I return to the direction at the end of the month The engine has now run 42000km and is year 2004 When I informed myself in advance the engine seemed to run quite smoothly. I therefore ask you for only a very small percentage of Saab driving around with this engine and even the Saab workshop stands quite perplexed in front of the engine. Be it also for maintenance timing belt change etc. best to my old, reliable O thanks in advance for your answers LG Mario

Nabend Forum. I have now made my C20XE and want to take the head off. So I have now finished everything down timing belts V-belts away and valve cover is also down. so far so good. Now in the clever book (Opel Astra F self-help or so it is called) I should now take off the camshaft wheels by holding with a matching hexagon key to the wheel. But I don’t understand that because I thought this one hexagon screw fixation for the wheel i I hope you can help me get the two wheels down. LG and thank you so much

I’ve been thinking about which engine I should pack in my 76 Manta B for years and days. I’d love a 6-piece but then I’m thinking about head load, performance, durability of the powertrain and the ease of maintenance (yes, actually you shouldn’t worry about this when you remodel it, but you don’t have to expand the engine for a spark plug change?! doesn’t have to be ) Here’s a small list of the engines I’m getting ready for. t has: 12V 3.0l + cheap to get + sounds better with weavers than the rest of the selection + more durable to drive on more engine capacity than the 24V (Imotec offers nice things) + cheaper to do when compared 24V – old engine ( tuning parts rare ) – power output 24V 3.0l + power + more potential when tuning + more revolving than the 12V – purchase more expensive – tuning parts very expensive 2.4er 8V + fits wonderfully + less weight + many tuning parts available – has everyone – just 4 cylinders – the 240hp I would like to have a little hard to reach I would like to hear your pros and cons on the topic.