Category: Smart Forum

Hello everyone, I guess I’ll have to install a new camweller soon. My question: What’s better a symmetric or an asymmetrical? I’m driving a c14SE would take a little more power then too but shouldn’t go too much on the idle characteristics thinking about a 276° or something, maybe one of you has some tips that he can give me and what it brings!! Greeting Karsten

Hello all, I drive an Astra G 1.6 16V 74 kw mileage 97000 km. I have an oil consumption of 0.5 liters to 1000 km. The Opel workshop mine, which is still in tolerance. Well, my former Vectra B, Astra F did not consume oil. Does anyone have experience with the 1.6 16V? Greetings

Hello guys Can anyone tell me at what interval the timing belt has to be replaced with the Astra F 1.7 TD 82PS (ISUZU engine)?

Hello, I’ve already read a lot about the topic here, but it doesn’t really help me any further. My Omega needs good oil for a few months, about 1L on 3,000 km. Lt. Opel would still be normal, but until then I didn’t have to fill anything between the oil changes at all. In addition, the immense smoke cloud disturbs at the start, if the car has stood for a long time. I guess it’s the valve shaft seals and after studying the contributions here, I had already run through them. But: The FOH now informed me that to change the valve shaft seals now the head has to go down – no longer as before only the camshafts out and secure the valves with compressed air! For this I was given about 1,200 euros in advance (probably net). That blows you, material value of the seals a few euros. The car has about 140,000 km on it and is now 10 years old. The following questions: – worth a repair? – there are workshops, which have the seals. change still according to the “old” method? – other hints (please none in the kind: drive ́continue so, 3 L are normal). Thank you and greeting Gau

hi was replaced by the machine c14nz timing belts wapu and tension rollers as well as new cylinder dome seal and after that he actually came at the first start attempt in the garage, got him out and rin and got the phone and still started and my bee tells how beautiful her car hums and started this evening certainly in the garage 4ma always jumped on. when I wanted to drive the next day the bock turned only by nothing, I was as dead in the circle jehuppt and bledde jeworden because it no longer went ok with scrap 3 used Zundmodule (which under the ignition coil ) hollowed to test if it is_____ nix ok 2 used ignition distributors because I thought the reverberer_____nix still dead also organized 2 Zundspulen (which are mostly not) __________ nix still like my rabbit 20cm under the earth what can it be now it does not come a spark from the ignition coil candles are also new as well as cable please help c14nz bj91 kadet e cc stillma please help and still greet

HI people! I would need your advice – and I am looking for the tissue tape for the crackers. Sure in ebay I found some, but maybe you know a company where you can get them! And maybe even someone has them themselves and can report something about them. Mfg and thank you already!

Hello I’m just new here in the forum and I have a problem with my Calibra V6. The engine clacks quite loudly (but seems to be only on one cylinder) and it runs quite unevenly, especially in the stand hear and notice it extremely. That’s why I had a compression test done. Cylinder 1 = 14.1 bar Cylinder 2 = 10.1 bar Cylinder 3 = 12.1 bar Cylinder 4 = 11.8 bar Cylinder 5 = 12.9 bar Cylinder 6 = 12.0 bar In my opinion, the loud clacking comes exactly from the Zyli I’m actually typing on the valves myself, is that possible? The workshop said that it’s probably not the piston rings. What do you think of the compression values at all, are all quite far apart. Hope you can help me. Thanks in advance