Moin. I recently bought a 2.0 liter Omega B, built in 2000, and am looking for a proper sports exhaust system, which is also reasonably affordable. That’s why I wanted to ask what you can recommend.
Category: Smart Forum
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Zafira 2.0 DTI Year 2000 82 hp starts hard
Hello dear Opel friends! My bee has been faithful to me so far, but now I have the time to have to separate from her. 10 days I read in the chat forums about the problemmatics that my bee has, but a hit has not been there so far. Only hints of possibly injection pump, traverse hoses, fuel pump etc.. Here is the problem description: engine run about 209000 km. Runs for three years on three glow candles. At the cold temperatures in Dec. November and January he jumped some more measurements after about 15 to 20 seconds. There I once put a can for cleaning the injection nozzles etc. as an addition in the tank and the bee jumped better. 3 days later bee had to pull a hanger, so about 300 km. At 110 kmh she was really thirsty. When giving gas, she always gave off a small black cloud and the hanger tarpaulin had diesel or oil drops? I think it was diesel at the consumption. The car jumped but the next 3 days still good. And then: In the morning long gurgling starts. 3 to 4 times under smoke formation. At the end he came into operation. The battery fats flatt. The next days fed with start pilot and it came to itself faster. So now to the FOH and problem described. How in the chats fuel return lines changed, valve covers checked in and expanded?? and traverse seal. Success? 80 euro issues. Next the probably fixed drall flaps should be made manageable. Can this be the reason? Does someone have experience or can someone give me a tip here. Injection pump should be quite expensive if it should not be afterwards. For Tips – Betsen Thanks
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C20 does not emit sparks
Greetings , my Calibra Turbo makes me mad, he jumped early normal at then I stopped briefly and since the end is! ADAC called the has measured everything by and meant it does not come to the distributor… OK new ignition coil pure . . . does not work . . relay tested . . does not work . . new ignition lock . . does not work all fittings lights as it should be , gasoline pump works . . ignition distributor tested . . engine also turns by but ignition not I bite nor the steering wheel off !!! Thanks before a b.
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Tires VA run one-sided inside
Hello, my Omega had the track bars changed before about 7500 km and had the track adjusted. Now I noticed yesterday that my tires are driving relatively hard on the edge, on the driver side a bit more like on the passenger side. The whole with the track rods is about 3 months ago. Before I could not determine the whole thing for about 15000 km. Current tire is 195/65R15 … driving down the winter tires completely. There were no curbers or anything in the last 23 tkm I was driving. The vehicle was moved normally, so not extremely heated around the corners and so on. Half of the kilometers were motorway with 130-150 km/h. Now my question: Do you think the dealer has set me wrong track values ? Does anyone have the right values for the 2.5 DTI, so I can compare ? The chassis is original. I don’t know if it is a sports suspension. That’s why d he question. How can you find out if you have installed the standard sports suspension? Thank you. Greetings Karle
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Ebay contra quality nurturing
@all, It runs through the whole forum… again and again questions Pro/Contra Ebay parts. The screwdrivers are annoyed, the mischievous generation is proud of the supposed bargains and everything hacks together… To defuse this story a little bit and to deliver a perhaps CONSTRUCTIVE post on the topic: Maybe it is possible to order by important assemblies, the quality manufactures which were installed in the Omi, to name according to the supply list form In this way, everyone knows which assembly he can play with “Billig – Plagiarism” and where he prefers to leave it. In addition, perhaps one or the other user also recognizes what the dealer/the workshop installs to him. How do I know as a normal driver without great screwdriver experience, what was installed in the Omi in the series? A corresponding list would be very helpful in the evaluation of the replacement / spare part. It would be equally helpful, since the Omi now also got weak parts from the factory to call here good alternatives. However, I do not know whether the forum here allows. Is not to be understood as a “black list” but as a description of what was installed in the Omi… (well, with small tips) Could be led as a “synthetic list”.
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Standard tire sizes for Agila A?
Hello, where can I find information about standard approved tyre and rim sizes for my Agila A, year 2002? In the case of a Corsa (year 98), I was able to find out in the old vehicle letter which sizes are permitted. With the successor system (certificate of approval I and II) this was abolished. Stutzig makes me that I can read here TÜV – tyre sizes on pages 9 and 10 though sizes: 155/65 R14 75T ( 4 1⁄2 J x 14 – steel rims?) 165/60 R14 75T (Alu rims?) In this case 165/70 R14 81T there are actually only two possibilities: either it is another approved size (which I find nowhere), or the size is not permitted, and the TÜV has let the previous owner go through it (they may not even have looked at it). However, I would like to know if I can find reliable information somewhere. or is it actually only the two in the TÜV document?
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Opel Agila A, F12 transmission from 2003, bore for the speed sensor
This topic has already been mentioned here in the forum. It is about the compatibility of the installed transmissions. In particular the missing bore for the speed sensor from 2003. I bought an Agila year 2001 cheaply and would like to work it up as a replacement vehicle for my current Agila. My “Erstagila” is built in 2000, first possession. He has now 195,000 KM almost without repairs. It was once due a water pump. Otherwise he has oil change The clutch and the gearbox are still original. The “New Agila” probably has 110000 KM behind it. Now to my concerns: A replacement gearbox was installed. I compared the number and determined the year 2003. These are the gearboxes, where the hole to the speed sensor is “infused”! I had no idea about that at first. The speedometer was not working, probably the revometer. A “replacement speedometer” was located at the rear. In the trunk. A complaint with the seller is not possible for various reasons. The purchase price was cheap with 230 euros. I controlled the cables and was initially pleased to find a corresponding for the speed sensor. The speed sensor was missing. So I bought a new one and wanted to install it today. Unfortunately, did not fold, as bore to…. Has someone drilled up this shed to retrofit the speed sensor? How much material do you have to drill through? What is the problem? This is a stupid question at first… unless there is a way to drill without chips. I imagine that the chips will be sucked off again and again while drilling. Maybe it’s better to grind? Or is there another simple option? So without drilling. Maybe with another wiring? With the vehicles starting in 2003, the speed should be tapped via the ABS sensor. Only where? Is the old bore? Is it possible to upgrade Agilas by mid-2003? My Agila also has ABS.
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Z10XEP, engine doesn’t start from today to tomorrow
My Agila, year 03 no longer starts. Opel scanner shows no error. Starter and battery ok. Tank is full. Specialist workshop checked the engine and says that the steering times are no longer right. It is assumed that the chain has skipped. Repair is supposed to cost between 600-800€. The Agila is worth about 1000€. The hydropumps also make light noises. The chain was completely replaced 4 years ago at 90 tkm. As it has also raced. Now the Agila 160tkm d How can a chain skip so easily? How does the ignition device work? Could it also have other reasons? Is the repair still worth it? Tires, shock absorbers and crossbars were made only Tüv 04/20. Looking forward to the answers!
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Agila A 1.2 Bj 08/2003 Steering wheel twisted
Moin together, I am the Olli. I recently got above mentioned Agila very cheaply and decided to save it from the press. The purchase price is probably again to parts pure but most of it I can do myself. To my concern. I do not know the type of steering yet. Seems to be electronically controlled. My steering wheel is about 1/5 or tick more twisted to the left, but drives straight ahead. When braking it does not pull away sideways, remains clean in the track. The steering also clacks very loudly at full impact as if a gear is skipping. But I can still drive, only because of this I am even more careful in curves. Where can I best start troubleshooting? Tires are ok, no one-sided wear. Wheel bearings are also without play. Can anyone help me? Greetings
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Central locking: lock on driver’s side causes problems
Hello together, two weeks ago I had three problems in one topic, and no one answered it. So now a new run with only one of the three points: The lock on the driver’s side behaves “locky” – at least in relation to the central locking. I have to open and close several times before it starts and also open the other doors (sometimes richg often: between 10 and 15 times). In any case, it can be felt that the key doesn’t really turn clean. For comparison: There are no problems on the passenger side, and the ZV works perfectly.So what could be defective?Note: Having looked around the internet, I am almost afraid that the cause can be found in the locking cylinder itself. Whether it can be repaired at all or it has to be replaced altogether is the big question …