Category: Smart Forum

  • Mokka FlexFix problems 🙁

    Good day, my parents bought a new Mokka with FlexFix (incl. adapter for 2./3. bike). They have 2 E-bikes with an axis distance of approx. 120cm. Now the following problems arise with the FlexFix: 1. The front wheel and the rear wheel are only standing with approx. 1-2 cm on the plastic rails. (strong horizontal swing occurs) 2. The straps that should hold the wheels are about 5-10cm too short. 3. The pedals cannot be properly positioned. Since they are designed to be 4. The mounting rod for the frame of the bike is extremely shaky. I don’t think it can hold the two bikes (about 45kg). Result: The bikes vary extremely in the direction of travel. Today, two Opel employees were on site and looked at it. They took 1 hour to mount the two bikes. They were still fluctuated extremely. But they said this was normal and ok! My parents extr a gave all the basic data of the bikes to the dealer, since no basic data (e.g. max axle distance of the bikes) were available to the FlexFix. The dealer said “no problem”. My dad was still at the TÜV today and he said that the system was not so safe. Now my parents would like to claim the FlexFix and exchange it for an AHK. Here the dealer now sets himself across! I find it already a strong piece that 2 men need ONE STUNDE to mount 2 bikes and this A one-man assembly is impossible! The e-bikes have wobbled very strongly in horizontal direction and in the direction of travel and did not make a sure impression. I simply believe that the FlexFix is not suitable for this size of the e-bikes. But this was not communicated at any time with my parents, although you had given the data of the bikes to the dealer. Now my parents go to a lawyer and will have to file a lawsuit! Are you so Is there any problems already known? Greetings from Lake Constance!

  • Omega B – X20XEV – Servo pump compatibility

    Moin, at the omi of my Schwegering (X20XEV Bj.99) the servo pump has said goodbye. Found used on the scrap yard (in the short term there was no new one here and the car was used mainly) and changed (was not me, therefore no part number – but was used by another X20XEV). Now I wanted to order a new one to replace the used one at the next service – was installed a 90473168 – if I entered the at Daparto only V6 models under “pass” When you enter the vehicle data at Daparto, pumps with the numbers 948049, 90409232, 90543246, 948077…..but not the upper ones. OK, now someone can say that in the 21 years maybe the car was made….but….Vehicle was bought by the first owner with 14,000km and is in their possession since. Very unpredictably, that the vehicle with such a mileage and after 4-5 years the servo pump was replaced. Out of pure curiosity I would h be happy about a logical explanation What is more important to me is which pump should I buy new. Part of the question, since at 90473168 only one pump is offered and the price is 2x higher than the one provided by search engine, from which there are also large selection of manufacturers. Thanks in advance

  • Omega A – Air Compressor leaks to high/low pressure lines

    If you think it’s OK, there’s a new problem. Today I noticed that the rubber sealing rings for the high and low pressure lines are leaking on the compressor. The screw had loosened a little bit and I can’t get the sealing rings close anymore. So empty the system, renew the sealing rings and fill the system again.

  • Omega B – X30XE – Does such a chip tuning make sense?

    Hello, at Ebay there is a chip for 25 € to buy. It promises with the MV6 +20Ps, +35 Nm and -0.5 L consumption. Installation should be very easy. So you ask yourself…why not? But does someone have experience with this or a similar chip? What negative consequences could this have in the long term?https://www.ebay.de/…/380115869740 Thanks and greetings.

  • Omega B STG ZV plug-in or cable colours

    First hello to everyone, I bought me a ffb universal to deal with the stress with the originals. was also instruction and all in doing so only I have problems with the cable colors. and indeed I read here also iwo that the cables for “on” and “on” should be brown-white and brown-red but in the instruction is indicated with “on” brown-black. the problem is, on the stg I have 2 plugs and on each these cable colors are available (on the wide plug even several times). Which of the two plugs do I find the cables for the on and to control and which colors or pins are these? have a 96er omi b limo. but please explain for “dummies” because with schematics I can handle so much net. oh yes + and mass I have taken from the small plug, is that ok or should I take directly from batt? is on the plug even perennial juice on it? should already the original ffb funzt yes also (sometimes). the zv is mass controlled, right? so ke ine pneumatic or something? hope someone can help me with the search I always only stumbled on schematics and I can’t get any further.

  • Cleaning Idling Controller –> How?

    Moin first of all, since my 2l 16V has recently also gone out for the first time when kicking the clutch, I probably have to tackle the junk with the hoses, hollow screw and idle controller cleaning soon. I already got a idle controller in reserve for safety. Looks quite new, but that has nothing to say. Supposedly only been installed for a short time, well ́mal look. I wanted to clean the reserve controller now, but am not as sure as you can The one with the plug for the E-connection, and the other with the two holes on which the seal comes. My question is now, you can simply separate the two parts for cleaning, or it disintegrates into a thousand parts. I once had this with a door lock cylinder, I cursed. Pulled out without a key in it. That’s why I better ask before, hi hi. Or s What do I have to bear in mind? Is there still a seal between the components? Are they additionally glued together? Can the part with the holes be placed in an ultrasonic bath without dismantling the part with the e-connection? Of course only in such a way that the e-part is not wetted, is already clear. Thank you for tips and tricks. Greetings Omimatze

  • Wash roads!!!……grrrrrrr

    Hello, I thought yesterday that I would do something good for my little Ommi and drive him through the wash road (don’t drive through it… for 10 years). When I come home, the decorative strip in the back left side of the bike track is pushed backwards. I called them immediately and should show the car. It didn’t come without anything, only time and useless 30km and an Ommi, which was dirty again, because with us the farmers are currently in the field and the roads look like that. . The Lord of CleanCar had meant that the trim was already not properly fixed, because otherwise it would not have happened and therefore he does not see one for the damage to be done. what should one do there??? On the right side the lineist is also not firmly attached to the coach, but stands on the wheel run also about 3mm. There must then be these stupid dry cloths behind hooked… Well…now I have the damage and will not be through this road anymore. BUT…where can I get a finish line like this again??? At the FOH it will cost a lot of money. Vllt. has someone a tip for me…at motoso there is unfortunately no…at the moment. It is the finish line at the rear left, which is fixed over the bumper to the wheel. Tanja

  • Omi with gas system

    A friendly “hello” to all Omi drivers I have a question: I wanted my Omi 2.5l 170Ps Bauj.97 to be converted to car gas. It is liquefied gas and no natural gas. I ended up for liquefied gas, as the tank (66l) fits into the reseveradmulde and does not take any space away. Does anyone have experience with it and can tell me how high the gas consumption is with it? Does the engine run just as well as with petrol?

  • Function electric seat height adjustment

    Hello Leutze. Since I haven’t been in the forum for a few days, (because shoulder hurts hurts is bothering me and doesn’t let sleep), there’s a question about a problem in my omi. Problem is this: The actuator for the seat height adjustment tries to work when you press on the switch, but doesn’t do it, unless it clacks. No matter if up or down. I thought that the flanged gearbox has an internal damage. I don’t know if any There is a foreign body inside or if something is broken off. Seeing in is not because the shitty thing is riveted. Who knows advice? Who knows the error? How can I help? Do I need a new actuator with gearbox (although the engine is funtioned) now? I am grateful for any suggestion or solution that removes the error. Have a normal seat with leather, seat heating and side airbag. The only thing that can be adjusted is the seat height adjustment. Blem around the driver’s seat. Still have fun screwing at your omi. Greetings Marco. PS.:Another question:How do you get your pictures into the forum???Opel OMEGA Caravan is the noble truck among the Kombi’s. ! !

  • Omega B – X20XEV – Differential – Oil loss at the Simmerring

    And another construction site… I’m too much under this car! The Diff has quite massive oil loss. Mainly from the left RWDR. The axle should still be the original ones. Before my part Höker moans again: Were there different variants? 2.0 16V Bj.95 switches. With some luck, the Diff is also responsible for the rough run under load. I’ve been looking for its cause for some time. Diff would also be a measure. And I still want to swap the RWDRs.