Category: Smart Forum

Greetings. I have a problem with the valve shaft seals of an x30xe in the Omega B Facelift. To the chronology of the gray hair. I bought an Omega B Caravan automatic with almost 153TKM and head seal damage year end 2000. At home then these changed, with the valves all newly sanded, new shaft seals, new hydros, new belts, new water pump, all handled without complaints and screwed together. (with the help of TIS) After timing belt adjust motor to …….. Runs….. Engine gets warm short gas bursts on 2500U/min….. Blue smoke from side seat. (well to recognize because rear silencer does not eat yet) I then searched around here what could explain otherwise for possible problems. Blow By System I immediately participated in the course of the head seals. So cleaned and an impact plate rented into the KGE. At the engine run I have to look for clear hoses mounted from the KGE to the intake tract. There comes no oil, so i So the oil comes from the head area. I then picked up the tip in a contribution from the Omega God “Kurt” for quality seals. I then on the right bench in the built-in state exchanged the Viktor Renz shaft seals for Elring. I noticed three loose shaft seals. Then everything again together and adjusted. Engine on…… Runs….. warm short gas…….blue smoke….the dirt.. So the same, oil loss eats so much that it me between cat tube Well, engine once warm, securing pulled off the fuel pump and compression test made on the right bench. Cylinder 1,3,5 all in the range 13 bar. Next day in cold engine pressure loss test. No findings. Very small loss. Wherever. Cylinder bushings look good, pistons are chic, I had made head first and head seals also. I took the head down again and disassembled. And again three shaft seals loose. Mal e How can this be that it loosens the valve shaft seals. Yes, I pressed it firmly with my hand the first time, the second time with a hard rubber hammer, slightly knocked on with a splattering tool for shaft seals. Would be very grateful for thinkers.

In the passenger footroom (km-low Omega with 114tkm) under the carpet is constantly moisture. The windshield has already been re-glued and sealed. The two water drains on the left and right are continuous, i.e. the water runs through perfectly. I have to refill coolant regularly lately, although I move the vehicle almost on Sundays. The climate has changed. There is no noticeable loss of performance of the air conditioning system. I noticed a small puddle last time in Hungary, when I had a sham change. But did I do this as from another vehicle. Probably not. It indicates, as others wrote, in the direction of leaking heat exchanger. How do you proceed in such a case? To FOH for troubleshooting? Or to look for yourself? What can I check myself without the need for And what about the “radical” method of another user I have read of, who has simply replaced the plastic layer at the bottom left of the middle part of the dashboard, where he cut the foam to get through to the heat exchanger? Is that possible?

Hello, I have measured a higher rest current and noticed that after the fuse for checkcontrol fuse 7 less rest current and also the battery lasts longer. After charging the battery I noticed that the red diode in the center console DWA lights up or flickers while driving or running out. Activate the DWA (at 2x door lock) with plugged fuse 7 does not look at the diode. Furthermore, my parking aid does not work and in front of some Ze it has also put my navigator in glove compartment, vlt co-excused? Question, is the higher resting current due to malfunction of the DWA or parking aid? How can I deactivate the DWA or find out where else the error lies?

Hello together, For some time now the MKL has lighted up ( error NWS P0340 ). We then installed an NWS from the accessories with new cable set, did nothing. Omega B 2.0 16V – X20XEV – 10/1996 Then an original GM sensor was installed. Now the MKL only lights sporadically. When the lamp is not on it runs quite normal, with light it pulls badly. I was told that a software update can possibly provide remedy. The first version is apparently too sensitive I refer to the MKL . Who can tell me which software version I have (read out with OP Com ). Keyword 2027 protocol Keyword #1: 6B Keyword #2: 8FNormal timing parameter set.VIN: W0L000026V1106211vehicleManufacturerECUHardwareNumber 90491975 NUsystemSupplierECUHardwareNumber: 2516E systemSupplierECUSoftwareNumber: 21d21e24e systemSupplierECUSoftwareVersionNumber: 0420 exhaustRegulationOrTypeApprovalNumber: S96001 systemNameOrEngineType: X20XEV RepairShopCodeOrTesterSerialNumber: Not pro ProgrammedProgrammingDate: FFFFFFFFIdentifier: 0206 CalibrationDate: 565S9020 CalibrationEquipmentSoftwareNumber: 25900300

Hello, In my Omega BJ 1998 I don’t have a warning number for light / parking light. Unfortunately I forget to put the turn signal back, then sometimes the parking light stays over the whole weekend on and Mondays the battery is empty. Can I retrofit a Summer Relais 90 240 665 or other and on which slot comes the relay? In Voaraus thank you very much! Greeting Remy

Hello! With my Omega MV6 I would like to renew the valve cover seals and in the course of the same exchange the usual lids for aluminium valve lids from the Vectra B 2.5. My question to you is whether it is absolutely recommended to renew the crankshaft housing seal in this action and why – and, if so, where can I get the mere seal at all? Dietmar

Hello guys, I have a problem with my Omega but first of all the vehicle characteristics: Omega B Caravan Executive 3.0 V6 (x30xe) vehicle has full equipment and automatic… Built ’00 all off! The problem is that on the one hand at low temperatures (< 5°C) the heating does not bring any really hot air and on the other hand that the engine temperature is not kept right... at above mentioned temperature it can be that the engine temperature drops completely when driving on the highway. At temperatures around 20° C the engine runs hot. In towns always 95 to almost 100°C and the small fan passenger side runs with max. power the others stand up to the fan for the MSTG. In rare cases the two small fans run parallel at the smallest level (camously audible) and then the large fan runs from time to time at the smallest level. Afterrun apparently also does not work or only if it wants, at least the fans go off as soon as I switch off the ignition no matter if the one e small running on max. power or not. On the auxiliary water pump under the balancing tank, which according to FOH only for the heating support is never electricity, no matter which heating power is required. Likewise, on the auxiliary water pump which sits high on the cooler no current depends. Thermostat should work the cooler becomes completely warm, all hoses become warm the engine will neither become particularly fast nor slow warm, everything as it should be I would say. My FOH Is somehow overburdened and don't know how to switch the fans, how to check the steps or how anything else engine cooling works on this engine as well as on the heating... there's always only a "axle shrug" I hope one of you can help me... I'm getting crazy here

Hello! What could this be: Care would be done only it opens up a little when the engine gets warm. Further it comes to me when it gets warmer outside: When starting engine control lights up….then again start then everything runs quite normal. Yesterday he totally started on emergency program… almost no gas.. Then I had to start a few times until the control light was out again.. So in the cold state it runs quite normal. Does this again hang with care again? Hing also but you don’t see anything…Maybe who knows what…Thank you in advance… Opel Omega 2.2 16v Bj.2000

My Omega A 2.6 from 92′ has installed a cold running controller from Euro 1 to Euro 2. It was already installed at the purchase and is, to my knowledge, an electronic one from HJS. The problem is, if I start the engine it runs higher because of the KLR, about 1600 revolutions. If I then drive it warm a few kilometers the idle speed is constant at 1000 revolutions. Only when I switch off the engine, and a second time was m start the engine has its normal 600-700 revolutions in the stand. The second phenomenon is that the KLR regulates even when the engine is warm, i.e. I drive and suddenly the engine gets gas shocks, without which I give more gas. Just at the gas station everything was good and all of a sudden it gives itself gas in the stand people have already looked at me. My question is what is broken and if you can just pull off the plug of the KLR on the controller to see if this is the cause of the error. l it’s an electronic one that’s stuck between the vacuum hoses or not? Maybe one of them had a similar phenomenon. So it’s not possible if the engine decides to give itself gas at once.

Moin on all sides.. First of all a hello to all those who don’t know me yet. My name is Albert, am 24 and I come from near Braunschweig. For about two years now I drive Omegas and have fallen in love with the car since then. Unfortunately I don’t know about cars at all and have (still) two left hands That’s why a little wank – could maybe ask a bad question now and again I have been using the forum here for some time to acquire knowledge and/or getting help – which works great, because the community works mostly well together Now I turn to you with a question that I unfortunately did not find (or perhaps also overlooked) under the SuFu. And I have the problem with my new Omega that the gears (especially with the cold engine) go in quite hard. Just if I want to insert the first or the reverse after the start, I get it only with the second or third attempt If I have already driven a few kilometers, it’s a bit easier; the gears can’t be switched “butter soft”, but rather hook up quite nicely. Now the question: what could this be and how do I fix the problem? Maybe with a gear oil change? Or does that have nothing to do with it?