Category: Smart Forum

Moin-Moin u. Watte-Watte for our Berliner Hello friends a successful new year 20+20 for ALL. It is a Senator B Bauj. 87 . For some time already the engine speed fluctuates at cold start and always ran round as soon as it got warm. I recently renewed because of gasoline loss, new hoses at the distribution and also the injection nozzles. But now, I realize that the engine speed at minute intervals at idle suddenly after a quiet whistle slightly sc I can’t find this whistle. Could someone please tell me where this little whistle could come from and what it is at and where it is at. Had already searched for small animals in the engine compartment without results I did not have an OBD for an éventual error message. Greeting from France.

Hello, I have an Omega B Bj ca 98 and wanted to finish this now against Tuv, when I put it off about 1 year ago he jumped on without any problems, but now he zigs around the end I can turn the lamps (defense) all go on, but then, when I continue turning, to start, starter doesn’t even turn anything (starter came in 1 year ago) battery is completely new. Can it be that the drive lock has disabled itself?

Hi guys. Since I thought I’d get a group-A facility for our Omega, the search started. When I was looking, I came across Bastuck, Jetex-Fortex, Ta-Technix, Fox, FMS and Simons. OK. But it’s just that the 3.2 was only listed at Bastuck and Ta-Technix, as well as Friedrich. Since the TA-Technix was the cheapest, if you can talk about cheap 730 euros, I ordered it. It turns out that it’s a Simon’s facility that sells TA-Technix stickers. I knew that Simons only got the ECE certificate for the X-models. Maybe TA-Technix himself had an ECE certificate created? At least that’s close to it. But it’s not a good idea. You get the same report from Simons with X25XE/X30XE. So it’s full of bullshit. Now the system goes back, what now? The only ones where the 3.2-series are explicitly listed are the Bastuck and the FM systems. In the Bastuck, this Y-tube bothers me (which is also the case with Fox). At Friedrich I know the fluctuations in quality. I have to change the system slowly, because the ESD of Supersport is now slowly disintegrating from the inside and now and then. I have also been looking for a wolf, if there is an expert report for the Simons, but nothing, nada. Are there alternatives? VG

Hi, my car has been losing cooling water for quite some time. Today I have finally discovered the weak spot. It is directly leaking where the cooling water hoses are connected to the interior. Looks like a kind of “plug??”. At least the upper one is externally wet. Is this just plugged in at the place? Will it be leaking? I wonder now if I need the piece of hose new or if there is simply a seal between that can be renewed. I’ve taken some pictures once, if I’ve expressed myself incomprehensible. Can someone help me?

Hi, I know, this question has already been asked tens of times in various forums and answered variously. Unfortunately, I have lost the overview and hope that you can limit the error. I drive a 2000 Omi 2.2 (with EasyJet-Autogasanlage) – often goes -especially at the warm start – the engine control light. After I have then driven a few meters, I start the engine new and the error is then mostly gone. When I get the error code read out I always use 0340 and 0170 (mixture with grease and reverb sensor). The problem is that the frequency is increasing and I have to start the engine more and more often before the indicator light runs out. Now I have read that there was probably a change in the cable at the NWS and I have to solder something around it. Then I read again that it could be the KWS, but I can only reach it if I unscrew the compressor of the air conditioner. Other instructions say again that I have the tensioning roller as well as d I’m a little confused. Which sensor could trigger this symptom and what would be to do? The gas system itself has been running for 50000km without any problems, so I don’t really suspect it. It greets a faithful but helpless omega driver?

Hello, after a long time have bought me an Omega again (the fourth). Beautiful thing. 2.2 liters 144 hp as Caravan “Design Edition` year 2002. Unfortunately now the big cylinder head revision is on. Since the cracker makes the first two kilometers also noises I would like to change it with you immediately. I would like to ask you for your experience. Is there really two different crackers with and without AGR or is there only the secondary air connection which my but does not have? AGR I have What do you think of which manufacturer I should take the new Krummer? Twin Tec, LRT K 120 or with which you have had the best experiences? I thank you in advance. Greeting Uwe

Hey guys, I retrofitted the front EFH’s on my 95. Wire harness in the doors was completely replaced, as in the original there were no connections for the engines inside. Connection for the switches under the Miko. were there, even already switched through to the A column. High-low run everything goes, comfort lock via IR-ZV hand transmitter goes also, NOT over keys in the driver’s door. Furthermore, the EFH’s go after turning off the engine and open the driver’s door no longer to operate. If I turn the ignition on and off again, they continue to operate manually (until the door is closed). The ZV goes as usual via IR FB and key. Additional question, in the wire harness now also the 2 connections for the door lamps are included, but this has no power. On which pins on the A column they should be.

hiho, I found that the pointer from the tensioner leveles back and forth at the timing belt who the motor is running. is newly installed and now the pointer always moves from new to completely right mapping (full voltage) is the normal

Hello, for a few weeks now, my omega (MV6, BJ 2000), which was newly added to me a few months ago, has experienced extreme vibrations during braking. Due to my guess on warped brake discs, I then measured their running schedule. The result was on both sides of the front 0.18mm flat beat (back 0.05mm). In the front too much flat beat…I thought I was wrong (it was funny that I never had to brake strongly since I had it). Yesterday I wanted my brake discs and pads on the r Renewing the front axle (Brembo). After I added it, I measured the flat beat again with my measuring clock. Result with the new discs: 0.25mm outside on the disc, even worse than before. The result was reproducible again and again with both new discs. Then I checked the wheel hubs for flat beat. Result: 0.1mm. So now the wheel hubs come new at the front, then everything should be right again. And now to the reason of my thread…The look of the verz The wheel hubs still shine pretty much and are therefore not very old, not to recognize manufacturers. Now you can see blue start-up colors that occur during overheating (Fig. 1). But where should the heat come from? Maybe from the now run dry wheel bearings, because their lubricant has apparently pressed down along the slit from the bearings (Fig. 2)? Have you seen this before? FG Konstantin

Hello professionals Have bought a NCDC2015 with CID cheaply from an accident Omega. This should now be replaced with the CAR 2004 in my Omega Facelift with GID. The cables etc. are already installed (prepared ) Have read a lot here about “ENTHEIRATEN “, but can’t do with it. What will “ENTHEIRAT ” ?? The CID with the NCDC 2015 ? or the CID and the NCDC with the vehicle ?? Have only an OPEL Security Codes report with the NCDC noticed. r someone help so that I don’t get completely stupid with the Opel dealer? Would really be great greeting Carmen