Hello! I had a problem with my Opel Omega 2.5 V6 BJ 12/94 Last year I had the timing belt changed at ATU, which the specialists didn’t know is that the timing belt cover also has to be changed, because the rubber seal can otherwise solve itself. Of course it also has this and the timing belt ran over. Result: Zilinder head rework all valves new , nock waves. Two weeks after that it smoldered in traffic jam once. Engine damage!!! And again to ATU. Car brought to a motor repairer who has re-drilled all the zillinders, new pistons, new plugs and bearings and re-worked the Zilinder head again. Now about 4weeks after that again strong oil loss(about 2Ltr. at 400Km) Now meie Question what do you think it could be,Phusch, hair crack or anything else???
Category: Smart Forum
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Repairs…
Hi Leutz, can anyone tell me what the cost of repairing the track rods or track rod heads, the crossbar bushings and/or the steering lever costs so roughly? Unfortunately, I don’t know at all how much I have to expect or what of it I can do myself! Please help me! Because get Kiddies (twins) soon and want to have the thick one in fire until then! Can you also put your own hand on me just tell me how! ng at Opel in Frankfurt is in the 2nd year of teaching. But doesn’t want to get him out of the way all the time! THX TheONE1279
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Irregular clacking from the passenger side?
Hello, my Omega just surprised me negatively again. I put the key in the ignition lock (engine still out), suddenly I hear an irregular cracker (about like this: krrkrrrkrkrrrrrr) from the engine compartment. The noise is very strange, hard to describe. It comes from the engine compartment from the passenger side behind the headlight, possibly from the black box behind it. If I pull the key out again, is for some time still a regular quiet noise Then KLACK (this time somewhere on the driver’s side) and the noise is gone. Please kiss me Sunday and tell me that it is nothing bad. Thank you! Xilef
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The “friends” spin at Opel !?
The friendly ones at Opel try to explain to me that the Omega MV6 Caravan LANGSAMER!!!!! is as the 2.0 16V !!!!!!!!!! In case: I bought my 2nd MV6 from 4 weeks. Well maintained, 110000km, Bj 96 ,Automatic and with an original AT engine with 10,000 km. The box (Sorry, but I’m pissed!) runs according to Tacho 215, which are (stopped and calculated (1km suf of the BAB) ) exact 202 km/h. The friendly can detect no errors – you know that yes, plug reader and no error co Is shown – was yesterday with Lexmaul on the test bench – so about 188 HP – but how do I find the lost horses and how do I bring the friendly to take over the repair (12 mon. guarantee!) The friendly says, “There were problems with the MV6 and they don’t run faster!!” That’s so! There’s nothing to do. But the car is otherwise great and I don’t like to give it back – also I want to show it to the friendly. I hope for your help!! Skidive – MV6 since 1999
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tailgate does not open
Hello together, last week I bought a Omaga B Caravon Built 94, i.e. with infrared immobilizer, and already a problem! At the seller the central locking function including tailgate still worked, when I wanted to unload the bought winter tires yesterday, the tailgate did not open any more. I tried everything: with both keys every position, extra new batteries for the key, no chance. Is there an easy way to open the flap again Is it hard to get back there: the flap to the spare wheel disturbs quite a lot… And maybe without having to try the friendly one? I’m an electromechanic, so with electrics. Thank you for every help! Inetter
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PROBLEM OMEGA B 2.0 16V Caravan
Top speed (PROBLEM) OMEGA B 2.0 16V Caravan hello, I have the following problem I wanted to test today the top speed of my Omegas and drove on the highway. I gave neat stuff and saw that the speedometer needle was no longer in at 185-190 Kmh. THAT CANN’T BE IN THE PAPERS HE SHOULD SOLL 202 KMH run there is a difference of 12 KMH. Actually he should run a little faster I have a sports exhaust system from Bastuck from Katdra N made of stainless steel, a K&N air filter and Brisk tuning spark plugs. So I have around 150 Ps available. PLEASE HELFT ME WORAN CAN YOU LOVE???????????? MY VEHICLE: Opel Omega B 2.0 16V Caravan Edition 100 Year of manufacture:1/99 225/55 R16 94H Tyres by Falken Sports exhaust system by Bastuck from Kat (stainless steel) K&N Air filter Brisk Tuning ignition plugs
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Charging power on the fast vein
Hello, I have been driving a Mokka-e GS-Line since June 21. In the first months it has always charged at 300 kW high-speed (EnBW, ALDI) with a load level of less than 50% with approx. 75-85 kW, until 80% then still between 55 and 65 kW. From 83% then much slower, first approx. 18 kW and then decreasing. Since mid-October, the “quick line” no longer works, the highest what it charges is less than 50% approx. 35 kW and over 50-60% approx. 18 kW. It was e.g. 6 degrees outside temperature, journey to the charging station 10 km (i.e. car / battery at least warmed) and still no more charging power. This does not improve over time, i.e. it does not charge faster even after longer charging time. A charging process of approx. 10% to 80% takes approx. 1:20 to 1:30 hours (on the fast line), in addition the range is extremely low in winter. That would now bed This is not portable. I’ve had the car for two weeks now at the dealer’s office and have received the news today that everything is so fine, and these temperatures and conditions are no longer working. If that really is the case, I think the Internet would be full of reports and complaints. However, I couldn’t do this with a single piece of paper. This is why I have registered here and I hope for your experience. Can someone charge their mokka-e even more than 50 kW or even 70-80 kW? If so, at what level of charge of the battery. Or do you all have this behavior and no one is surprised (as Opel claims). I even had a charging axe bar 2 times in my 3 documented attempts, a Fiat 500 and a Mercedes Vito e, which each have a normal charge of approx. 75 kW. all manufacturers except Tesla this problem with the slower loading in winter. But I definitely can’t believe it now… Thank you for your input!
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C14NZ engine tuning
Moin, I wanted to know what you can do with the C14NZ and how much it costs and what it does (in terms of performance)? I also read somewhere that you can install cylinder heads from the C16SE or something like that, what fits on/to the engine block (inlet bridges, exhaust manifolds, etc.) and what does that bring? Since I already have the engine there, I want to install it, so no C16NZ or something to install it. … know a side where there is a instruction to change camshafts, manyleic ht equals the C14NZ (possibly with pictures).
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Coupling problem Calibra with X20XEV and F20
Hi, because I had a gearbox damage to the Cali a short time ago. Did I throw out the F18 and built in a f20. So I have now original swing plus old clutch. Expression bearing as well as levers of the F18 (with matching sockets because the lever is thicker than the F20). Now to the problem: When assembling it I noticed that I had to adjust the clutch rope so that the pedal has the right position. Unfortunately, the clutch does not separate properly. What could this be about?? Is the clutch cable in the f20 Kürzer as in the f18. What is the difference with the F20 with service flap and normal F18? I always thought they are the same except for the flap. Thanks already for your answers.
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2.7 CIH
Hello guys, have built me a 2.7 Cih with 2.2 head and 296 shaft presses at the time 187 HP. Drive it with a 2.0 LE Jetronik and BMW air volume meter but with the inn life of 2.0 Opel. Think he gets too little fuel top or from the middle of the rotary zalband. Starts at 1900 with 247nm and pinches at 4500 and comes back at 5200. Search a injection system of a car with more displacement without ignite adjustment like our LE Jetronik hurts what comes to mind??? Or does someone already have the 2.4 Motronics at the Old Block brought to run??????? Thanks for the tips LG Joe Ascona B 2,7