Category: Subaru Forum

Hello, I was always so enthusiastic about our Forri, but it came to it, and see it is true. Today after good driving in on the highway, I pulled a trailer for the first time with the car. Single-axle tipper suspension 800 KG charge unfair weight of the team about 1250 KG. I strangled the car only 5 times completely. Then I cheered the engine up to 2000 turns, then let the clutch come slowly. Immediately the interior with rotten stench from the clutch was I thought I was falling away from believing. And I always thought it was a fairy tale. I continued my drive to the building rubble dump, I went up 4 to 6 % uphill, let the car run up the mountain in 3 gears at 2000 revolutions. After a KM the stench was so strong that I had to open the windows. I then stopped in a parking lot and wanted to look at the whole, because the car also did not pull properly. The lamp of the differential oil was already on . And he squirted like a campfire. It was not to be thought of further, since I still had to climb the flat mountain. So first half hour pause made. Cooled off. Then again tried again 2 times strangled, it is not possible to get this car with load rear dran to drive under 2000 revolutions and long grinding clutch. Can’t believe !!!!!! I arrived at the landfill, normal muddy ground on the spot, again up the hill, like r out of the cart. Then I set up 3200 turns and let the clutch fly. Impossible !!!! The landfill keeper thought I had taken Drgen. Then it went around to push the trailer backwards to the rubble, so that I could load with my hydraulic tipper there nicely close to the edge. Here nothing, absolutely nothing. Start-coupling – out, always so on. Not with 2 not with 3000 turns. So I drove round again, the cart on the dump again 2 times strangled. And then then again. I couldn’t drive a car, let my neck and anger mirror rise. The smell of the clutch is degenerate, the landfill keeper shook his head, such a beautiful car, which hammered together in Japan. I then drove home with stinking clutch, which is in the bucket no question, you can give up the engine howling, but the forri does not get faster. My dealer was not reachable, so I immediately turned off. Subaru. A technician told me that the problem is known. And you always have to synchronize the game of clutch and gas foot. I was speechless, a car BJ 2011 where you have to learn to drive a new car to pull a trailer of 1200 KG. Now tomorrow the car has to go to the dealer, even he shared with me that the Forester Diesel always smells a little bit while driving with load. I’m curious what comes out of it? If I think about it, it can’t really go, The same powertrain as the Impreza is installed in the Forri Diesel. However, the Impreza has quite different trailer loads. Of course that doesn’t fit a bigger clutch. I’m sure that the Diesel will get a new one in the future, something that has already heard out at Subaru. it was very quiet to hear on the phone when I argued that way. Last Saturday I was looking for a trailer that I wanted to pull out with the car, well that I didn’t want to use the car. The trailer dealer himself drives the Sharan Diesel and pulls with it 7 meters caravans, if you look at the data here, you can read that the TDI engines are equipped with double couplings. So the Germans still manufacture according to the principle “double muffled holds better “

Hi together, I’m looking for wheels and tyres for the winter (Forester SJ, MJ 2018, Platinum). According to the website of a tyre shop, no RDKS sensors are required for the passive tyre pressure control system (RDKS):https://www.felgenshop.de/source/skin/default/img/fsv2/RDKS-Passiv.png On the other hand, with the active RDKS already:https://www.felgenshop.de/source/skin/default/img/fsv2/RDKS-Activ.png Is a passive or active RDKS installed in the Forester SJ (MJ 2018, Platinum)? My Forester shows that In the display no tyre pressures on (unless I have never checked/set this before), so that I go out of a passive RDKS. Then I would not need to order any sensors when ordering winter bikes (wheels and tyres). Correct?EDIT: According to the list of the ADAC, the Forester IV (SJ) has a direct measurement by means of a sensor. So I have to order some extra ones?EDIT-End Does your aluminium or steel rims recommend in winter? What about snow chains? Where can I find information about which snow chains? e Wheel dimensions for my vehicle must be adhered to (boreing, press-in depth etc.)? In the registration certificates Part I and II and in the Subaru Forester catalogue (technical data) I could only find the tyre dimensions (225/55 R18 98V). Thank you for your help!

Hello, I’m still a bit loaded. Had on Sunday suddenly the problem that my Forester is powerless between 2000 and 3000 revolutions. If you give gas, then the engine buzzes, squirts briefly and then switches down to 2-3sec to run then again like a world champion. The problem is present in cold as well as warm condition. Error message are not stored. My Subaruhaendler found nothing. The boss himself(75 years old) drove with me sample and meant the car goes like a racquet. The D epp entered the first driving stage and drove at 5000 rpm. After several discussions he finally used D, but didn’t want to notice the buzzing as well as the lack of performance and short jerking. He explained to me that you have to turn the car on yourself. I just laughed and asked him why this is probably an automatic. Well, a while back and forth it ended in that he yelled at me and I screamed back that we finished here at the point and I went to the lawyer, because the car was bought by him 2 months ago. Now I am standing here with a car which doesn’t work between 2000 and 3000 revolutions, shows no errors and the only Haendler in the radius of 80km which turns across. Attorney first reports tomorrow. If it does not help I don’t know. Has someone ever had the same error picture? Greetings

I don’t know if I am right here, but I would be very happy about some help. Go to a financial question or your experiences and what you would advise me. I am now starting from the 1.8th my training as a retail clerk, this probably goes, if not shortened, until 2022. To finish my training I am then 22J old and have already saved money for a deposit, how much is left. I would like to take a loan from pipapo 10,000€ for a I am currently paying a rent of 380,- warm and have no other expenses. Eating with parents, electricity and water is taken over, insurances are taken over for domestic purposes. So first of all at fixed costs everything is included and then roughly 800€ over for credit and financing of the car. Realistically or rather not? I have absolutely no idea what a car costs so much money. o I refrain from, so car credit + taxes, insurance, fuel and what to put aside for repairs etc pp. What business would be desirable, but is it possible? Would you advise me not and if so, what would you advise me instead?

Hello dear Foris, I am looking for a new used one and need your help for this. Briefly to the dates: I drive about 20000km a year from time to time with horse hangers (to 99% only with a horse) every day over wet, muddy couplings have dog & saddle what should be stored in the trunk the vehicle would like to drive the next 5-6 years Budget: approx.800€ – 900€ my choice a lot on the Subaru Outback Kombi 2.5 Gasoline with manual transmission Hope already you don’t guess me g anz from Now the question is whether I should take an older one with a little km or a newer one with more km? I looked once, you get for the price which so around the 100,000km from BJ 2005. Or then hold which one from year 2007/2008 with approx. 180,000km. Supposedly the cars should easily rewind 300,000km. But is that also true? Which would you recommend? Or rather an automatic because of the trailer? What weaknesses do I have to pay attention to? What about the clutch? Does it only cause problems with the diesel engine? I’m spoiled at the moment, my Opel has still driven the first clutch with 16 years & 220,000km despite regular suspensions. And besides wear parts has never broken anything bigger. Is the outback also so reliable? I look forward to your answers. Thank you in advance.

Hello together. I’ve been interested in a Levorg for a while now. Since we’ve always driven a Golf Variant to date, but I’ve had enough of TSI, control chains etc., my attention has fallen to the Levorg a few months ago through a really detailed and honest test on Youtube. Visually and technically, it’s exactly what I want from a car. It’s sporty, solid and quite well equipped. I’m particularly interested in the sport variant. My question to those who might drive one or to WRX drivers, because relatively many components and characteristics are identical. What have you done for experience with the car and also Subaru? Are certain components particularly vulnerable? Are there any known problems? How does Subaru behave in the case of service? Greetings, Tomkano

Hello, after my beloved outback (2.5L – BJ 2005 – 165PS automatic) has unfortunately gone into the eternal hunting grounds, a new working vehicle has to come. I love to ride with a Forester III, built 2008-2011, because I find the higher sitting more pleasant. The vehicle is needed as a towing vehicle (horse hanger) and to drive to the daily couple. – Are there weaknesses with the Forester I have to pay attention to? – The offered vehicles are mostly 2.0L machines with 150 hp, go t the Forester then significantly worse than my old outback? – Of the mileage they are so between 120,000km and 200,000km. How long does the automatic hold here (I understand that this also depends on the driving behaviour and the frequency trailer operation) about? – How am I in consumption? My outback I moved so with 9.5-10 liters (without trailer). Does the Forester have more thirst? – My outback ran without any problems and repairs its 200,000km. baris also the old durability? I look forward to your answers 🙂 Greetings